Ceramic Tile vs Stone Tile

[Talisman]

Ceramic Tile vs. Stone Tile

Hello all,

I am building a hearth for my new stove (VC Defiant). My local tile distributor steered me away from stone tiles. He indicated they couldn’t support the stove without cracking.
He mentioned that the ceramic tiles were baked at a very high temperature therefore they would be harder/stronger. The stove is 450 lbs. w/o wood or the pipe weight. My wife and I really prefer the stone look to the tile.

Can anyone with some experience chime in here and give me some advice.

My plans for the hearth are a ¾” plywood layer, ½” fireproof cement board and then the tile/stone.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Wrigley]

Joe,

What kind of stone tile are you considering and what is its nominal thickness? Can't imagine that the stone would be a problem unless it is exceptionally thin and brittle .... which would not be a good idea for a floor install anyways, regardless of weight.

 

[elmoleaf]

Stone and ceramic tile will both crack if the underlayment/support is flexible. Thicken your support layers and/or tighten up metal stud spacing (if used) to add stiffness.
Use stone...it'll be fine.

 

[Talisman]

Thank you for the positive and timely replies!

 

[ChipTam]

I think that stone tile should be ok. Myself, I used porcelain tile which which has something of a stone look. You might want to check to see if your stove requires a certain R-value for the hearth. A sheet of 3/4" plywood, plus 1/2" Duroc, plus 1/4" tile or stone won't add up to a very high R-value. I used 2 sheets of Duroc plus the tile and was still slightly under the required R-value for my stove. However, I'm able to hold my hand on the hearth beneath the stove with a stong fire going so it may not be a problem in the real world.
Chip Tam

 

[fossil]

There are porcelain tiles available (very hard/strong) which are made to mimic natural stone, and are quite beautiful. As mentioned, the single most important thing is a good, smooth, level, stiff underlayment on which to set whatever stone or tile you choose to use. Rick

 

[Talisman]

Thanks again.

I dont know the stone tile thickness. I will go back to the store and investigate. I am making a pad.
Not so much a raised hearth. If need be I can double up on the plywood for strength. I will report
back with the stone tile thickness.

 

[paulie]

they both will work, what is it that you like? I too have a pad, I have 1 1/2 " blue stone. don't see it cracking any time soon. . like Fossil said, there is some really nice stuff out there it's really what you like and what will fit your decor.

 

[woodjack]

I have a new natural blue stone hearth pad. Some stones are thick, some are thin (1/2"). I set the stones in a thick bed of mortar mix laid on 5/8" cement board screwed and glued to my wood floor. I should have put a plywood base, but in my haste forgot to. I don't see any signs that indicate cracking.

Again, to repeat what's been said above numerous times, the most important thing is to build a good, solid, foundation for the hearth pad stone/tile.

 

[pinewoodburner]

I just finished making a granite hearth to set my Fireview on. The granite and other natural stones are slightly thicker than the manufactured tile, but not that much. Natural stone does have some little stress fracture lines in it, and if your subfloor moves, they can crack easier than the other tile. Any tile will crack if it does not have a good base or the thinset is not correct. I loved the black granite and it did cost me an extra $4.00 per tile, total of $100 more. Hopefully will install the liner tomorrow and Fireview Monday.

 

[Talisman]

Follow up.

Went with porcelain tiles. Here are pics of the progress:

2 layers of ¾” plywood and 1 layer of ½” cement board for the base. The cement board was left off while I was dry fitting the tiles.


Thanks for the tips and info.

 

[mayhem]

I used blue porcelain tile on my hearth, because the wife wanted it and I know enough to not argue aesthetics anymore. So long as your underlayment is strong and doesn't flex you cna use basically any floor-rated tile you wish...be it natural stone or ceramic. I've got a photo in the DIY area in the thread about backsplashes if you want to take a look.

Typical natural stone tiles are 3/8 thick by the way. Marble, Onyx, Granite...whatever. They look fantastic too.

Incidentally, your plans for the hearth may not be sufficient. The cement board has a low R factor and only a half inch may not be enough. Check your stove's requirements and then add cement board (or dursrock or micore if you can get it) until you meet or exceed your stove's code requirements, otherwise your inspector may not sign off on your permit. I had to use 6 layers or 1/2" durarock to get the r value (micore is not sold withint 50 miles of me), but I happen to like a tall hearth.

 

[blel]

It's not going anywhere. Let's put it this way, if you build the hearth with duorock, thin set, and stone tile and have 3 adults stand on it, do you think it's going to flex? I don't think so. If you tile your kitchen floor properly and 3 adults are standing close together I don't think it will crack. Some of these hearth construction techniques are a little overkill strength wise. Just my opinion.

 

[fossil]

A woodstove hearth, once the stove is landed, has a pretty static load on it. It's not like a floor where weights are constantly shifting around on it. There are three mandatory requirements which must be met. It must be strong enough to support the weight of the stove, and it must be constructed such that the required insulative property (r-value) is reached or exceeded, and it must extend the required distance out from the stove in all directions. After those requirements are met, then it's a matter of how you'd like the finished product to look. Some stoves are easy...non-combustible ember protection only. Some stoves are not so easy...considerable r-value required because of radiant heat from beneath the stove. In any case, there are multiple ways to get it done and done right. I wanted both my stoves up on 12" hearths because I don't like bending over any more than I have to. We used masonry to achieve this in both cases. All three mandatory requirements were easily exceeded. Rick

 

[dougand3]

Mortar-wise, I went with Polymerized Thinset (called ultraflex I or II or III at lowes, can't remember HomeDepot name). The tile guys said it decreases crack risk. Poly thinset was $20-25 per 50# bag. Regular thinset was $5/bag.

 

[wellbuilt home]

If the floor is stiff it wont crack . ?You could use the stone if you like it. My hole living room floor is 3/4" blue stone and i have a Equinox on it . I have no problems and wont . John