Chain is oddly binding on new 543xp

[WiscWoody]

I got my new 543xp last week and I’ve been using it to buck up the truckload of oak I have here. I like the saw a lot and I’m surprised how well it’s done for a small light saw running full chisel chain on it but it’s got me stumped on something that’s happening usually (always) when I have a minor pinch while cutting the logs, and it doesn’t have to be a bad pinch, just the shift of the log before it drops off the the pole will make the chain bind up when I go to cut the next buck...and the brake hasn’t been set and the chain tension is fine. It’s like the brake binder has partially set or something? I always can get the chain to roll again by pushing the bad into the log poles while holding the throttle wide open for a second and then the saw cuts like normal. The Oiler is working good also. Any ideas? I’ve never had this phenomenon on my other pro saw before.

PS- I have stopped the saw and closely looked at the chain and bar all the way around and on the sprocket while it bonded up but I see nothing unusual to explain this. I’m on my 6th tank with the saw now. Maybe it’ll clear up after the break in period...?

 

[Jazzberry]

I got my new 543xp last week and I’ve been using it to buck up the truckload of oak I have here. I like the saw a lot and I’m surprised how well it’s done for a small light saw running full chisel chain on it but it’s got me stumped on something that’s happening usually (always) when I have a minor pinch while cutting the logs, and it doesn’t have to be a bad pinch, just the shift of the log before it drops off the the pole will make the chain bind up when I go to cut the next buck...and the brake hasn’t been set and the chain tension is fine. It’s like the brake binder has partially set or something? I always can get the chain to roll again by pushing the bad into the log poles while holding the throttle wide open for a second and then the saw cuts like normal. The Oiler is working good also. Any ideas? I’ve never had this phenomenon on my other pro saw before.

PS- I have stopped the saw and closely looked at the chain and bar all the way around and on the sprocket while it bonded up but I see nothing unusual to explain this. I’m on my 6th tank with the saw now. Maybe it’ll clear up after the break in period...?

Sounds like the chain is a little too tight. I do the same bump maneuver occasionally.

 

[DodgyNomad]

If the chain is tensioned right as you believe, try rolling it with your hand and see if there's any tight spots. If not, I'm guessing it's just the oak and the log pressure grabbing the chain on a 43cc saw. If it seems to be happening only on the pinch, see if you can avoid having that happen by cutting from another angle, or using a log jack, etc..

I'm thinking that smaller saw, that's still pretty new with the factory tune might be a bit underpowered for a full chisel in oak if there's pressure from the log squeezing.

I would tend to doubt that the brake is grabbing, but you could test that also and make sure it's operating normally.

 

[SpaceBus]

I officially hate my local dealer. About two months ago I wanted to buy a new sub 10 lb pro saw. They told me no such thing exists and "The EPA effectively killed" any light weight powerful saw. I ended up getting a used 346 and sending it to get ported. Does the 543 have auto tune?

As far as your chain issue, I agree with everyone else.

 

[blades]

chain binding- perhaps a small kink /bend in one one of the links Very difficult to see ( with chain off and suspended from your finger or something look down the length to see if there is a bit of curvature- which should not be there) , or more likely a few drive teeth are nicked up . Inspect all the drive links there should be no burrs or other deformity to them it is also possible that you may have pinched the bar closed a tad or perhaps put a slight bend in it.
note there should be a bit of free play between the bar and the chain at rest. - in other word you should be able to lift the chain from the bar groove a tad say a 1/16" or so

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I have the 550xp.. every so often the drive link gets sawdust on it and it fouls the sprocket a little or get in the guide of the bar creating resistance.. for what ever reason.. only happenes when cutting oak.. keep the rpms up on the saw to clear the cuttings andt hat will keep the bar area cleaner..

 

[WiscWoody]

It’s not that the chain was too tight or too loose, that would have been a easy diagnosis. I’m on tank number seven so far and it hasn’t happened in a light pinch now in the last two tanks so it could have been something to do with a new saw and chain breaking in. The saw came with semi-chisel chain but I bought six new full chisel chains for it right away and I switched to one of those after the first tank already. The saw is rated at 2.95 hp and with the 16" bar/chain setup it does quite well and I’ve used it exclusively bucking up the truckload of red oak I had delivered last fall. I talked to a guy up here that said he can do a woods porting job on it for $125. I’m Not sure if I’ll do it or not but that’s a good price. The guy that ported my first two pro saw now charges $350 for the work so I’m glad I got the saws done for $200 and $250.

 

[SpaceBus]

It’s not that the chain was too tight or too loose, that would have been a easy diagnosis. I’m on tank number seven so far and it hasn’t happened in a light pinch now in the last two tanks so it could have been something to do with a new saw and chain breaking in. The saw came with semi-chisel chain but I bought six new full chisel chains for it right away and I switched to one of those after the first tank already. The saw is rated at 2.95 hp and with the 16" bar/chain setup it does quite well and I e used it exclusively bucking up the truckload of red oak I had delivered last fall. I talked to a guy up here that said he can do a woods porting job on it for $125. I’m Not sure if I’ll do it or net yet but that’s a good price. The guy that ported my first two pro saw now charges $350 for the work so I’m glad I got the saws done for $200 and $250.

Who did your first few saws?

 

[DodgyNomad]

As others mentioned, but I assume you've done this, I'd pull the bar, blow it out, blow out the oiling passages, and check all the drivers and again hand roll/pull the chain through and check for hard spots. Also, check the oiler, and if it has adjustment, turn it up a bit. Could be getting hot if it's not getting enough lube. But if it's not in the chain/bar, I'm thinking tune on a small saw in very hard wood might be the solution.

 

[WiscWoody]

I officially hate my local dealer. About two months ago I wanted to buy a new sub 10 lb pro saw. They told me no such thing exists and "The EPA effectively killed" any light weight powerful saw. I ended up getting a used 346 and sending it to get ported. Does the 543 have auto tune?

As far as your chain issue, I agree with everyone else.

The first 543xp’s were auto tune I believe but in 2016 they started making them in Japan and changed them to non-auto tune. I really like the saw and like I said in another post here the binding seems to have gone away possibly from the saw being broke in now.

 

[WiscWoody]

Who did your first few saws?

Scott Kunz aka Tree Monkey ported my first two pro saws. He and Wicked Work Saws are known far and wide for their porting work. Look for Scott Kunz on YouTube or for Tree Monkey on arboristsite.com if you want to find out more. He’s in Augusta Wisconsin not far from me.

 

[redmanlcs]

woodsplitter may be on to something.. as per his reply above... I have a smaller saw that did this. What was happening was when the log started to bind a little, the saw would make a weird chip, one or two stringy looking ones that would end up between the sprocket and the chain. This would foul the chain and I too would have to give it a "kick start".. by moving the chain against a log or something to free it...

I resharpened the chain and all was well......

 

[tadmaz]

When ripping northern white cedar, you can get foot-long strings, and they will bind the sprocket real good. I wouldn't think crosscutting oak would get you strings, but who knows.

 

[redmanlcs]

i wouldn't call them stringy... just unlike normal... anyways................... when the log started to bind the chain, what little bit of slack is in the chain travels to the top of the bar creating a gap between the chain and bar. When the chain lifted off the bar it would "shave" some of the kerf that was left above. These shavings get under the chain, travels to the sprocket, and fouls the chain, or gets fouled in the bar. I don't know if sharpening the chain fixed it,, or the resulting tightening of the chain afterwards.

You definitely have a chip between the sprocket and chain... well i did anyways... hope you get it lined out. I'm so far behind on my wood cutting this year.... none saved back from last year... going to have to cut some dead the rest of the year or freeze... lol..