Chain sharpening

[MoDoug]

While sharpening my chain today I realized how much more worn the inside cutters are than the outside ones. I use the PFERD Chain Sharp, and have always used 2 strokes on all the cutters (after all it is a 2 stroke ). I sharpen them from the short side toward the long side, and always throw out good chips after sharpening. I think I'm doing it right, but maybe not.

 

[SpaceBus]

Check out the Granberg File N' Joint. It has a backstop that will make sure every cutter is the same length.

 

[MoDoug]

Check out the Granberg File N' Joint. It has a backstop that will make sure every cutter is the same length.

So, this must be mechanical, and not procedural or something else like torque to one side causing uneven wear. The PFERD uses two files, one for each side, actually three files as the middle file files down the depth gauge at the same time. I've been using this sharpener for two years and have been very happy with it. I just changed the files about a month ago, I think the first thing I need to do is check the file that sharpens the outer cutters. It may need cleaning or rotating.

The Granberg File N' Joint gets great reviews.

 

[JimBear]

While sharpening my chain today I realized how much more worn the inside cutters are than the outside ones. I use the PFERD Chain Sharp, and have always used 2 strokes on all the cutters (after all it is a 2 stroke ). I sharpen them from the short side toward the long side, and always throw out good chips after sharpening. I think I'm doing it right, but maybe not.

View attachment 269574

All the reading I have done, it appears that a lot folks take more off of one side than the other. It just depends on how you hold your saw/bar/chain when you sharpen.

 

[ABMax24]

Let me guess you're right handed?

Because of this it's more natural to put more pressure when sharpening the left side cutters, you probably don't even notice this, but because of the increased pressure you are removing more material with every stroke. The right side cutter are more akward when sharpening and you are applying less pressure removing less material.

I sharpen my saw without a guide and use just a round file, I also have the issue of keeping constant pressure side to side, instead of trying to keep consistent pressure on the file I just run another pass or 2 on the right side cutters. Typically I run 3 strokes on the left cutters and 4 or maybe even 5 on the right side to keep the cutters the same length.

 

[MoDoug]

All the reading I have done, it appears that a lot folks take more off of one side than the other. It just depends on how you hold your saw/bar/chain when you sharpen.

I always place in my bench vice, and one thing I like about the PFRED sharpener is it has the angle built into it as a guide. I have to keep the angle and level as close as possible, so there is some inconsistency involved.

 

[MoDoug]

Let me guess you're right handed?

Because of this it's more natural to put more pressure when sharpening the left side cutters, you probably don't even notice this, but because of the increased pressure you are removing more material with every stroke. The right side cutter are more akward when sharpening and you are applying less pressure removing less material.

I sharpen my saw without a guide and use just a round file, I also have the issue of keeping constant pressure side to side, instead of trying to keep consistent pressure on the file I just run another pass or 2 on the right side cutters. Typically I run 3 strokes on the left cutters and 4 or maybe even 5 on the right side to keep the cutters the same length.

I'm right handed, and this makes sense. I have noticed I tend to have more difficulty with the right side cutters, and trying to keep constant pressure side to side. I like your compensating with more strokes on the right side. I want to get the full life out of this blade, so I need to take more out on the right side anyway, and just enough on the left to help it through. Apparently that's the way I've been cutting with it lately and I thought it was doing great, but obviously not as well as it should have been.

 

[Nealm66]

I’m in a practice of sharpening the tooth as it’s needed. If no apparent dings or dullness, I will just touch it to get the wood dull out. If I have one side that gets hammered, I’ll even out the other side to some degree. I use a rider gauge that helps keep the teeth grabbing evenly to some degree. I don’t have a lot of experience of just cutting firewood though, different environment for sure

 

[MoDoug]

I’m in a practice of sharpening the tooth as it’s needed. If no apparent dings or dullness, I will just touch it to get the wood dull out. If I have one side that gets hammered, I’ll even out the other side to some degree. I use a rider gauge that helps keep the teeth grabbing evenly to some degree. I don’t have a lot of experience of just cutting firewood though, different environment for sure

I need to start paying closer attention to my cutters. I have an end of day cleaning and maintenance routine that I've gotten to where I just get through it to get it done. Being dark at 5:00, cold, hungry and ready for a beer doesn't help.

 

[kennyp2339]

this is how I do it, and it works very well
Took Me 4 Years To Figure This Out - YouTube

 

[Eureka]

I like the Stihl / Pferd sharpener a lot. Then I realized how different I was getting the tooth length from left to right teeth. The right always being much shorter - I'm right handed. We all hold tools differently though. I cut 16 cords over the last year, so I did a lot of sharpening. The files need to be replaced often, especially the raker file, or it does all kinds of goofy things to me; mostly uneven filing from side to side. Because of the "follower" design that rides along adjacent teeth, and my filing more on the right teeth due to pressure, I actually started to notice pulsing in my cuts.
I just got a Tecomec Super Jolly for myself and wrapped it up to open on Christmas. I need something to get the teeth all evened up and the 2-in-1 will go in the toolbox for touch ups in between. Still a good tool, but not for me at this volume.

 

[SpaceBus]

I like the Stihl / Pferd sharpener a lot. Then I realized how different I was getting the tooth length from left to right teeth. The right always being much shorter - I'm right handed. I cut 16 cords over the last year, so I did a lot of sharpening. The files need to be replaced often, especially the raker file, or it does all kinds of goofy things to me; mostly uneven filing from side to side. Because of the "follower" design that rides along adjacent teeth, and my filing more on the right teeth due to pressure, I actually started to notice pulsing in my cuts.
I just got a Tecomec Super Jolly for myself and wrapped it up to open on Christmas. I need something to get the teeth all evened up and the 2-in-1 will go in the toolbox for touch ups in between. Still a good tool, but not for me at this volume.

This is how I ended up with a Granberg guided electric grinder, too much volume to mess around with poorly hand filed cutters. With a guided sharpening system I find that I remove much less material than free hand. Having an adjustable backstop is crucial and cannot be overstated for milling.

 

[Sawset]

Did it cut crooked? A lot of times when the cut starts to curve the comments are to check the teeth. I've found that that matters less than wear on the bar. Some chains here even have half the teeth broken off one side, are down to nubs, and lengths all over, and they still seem to cut straight, as long as the bar is in good shape.
With the pferd, it's easy to lean into it a little from one direction, then push it at arms length from the other. So far I've been able to compensate, at least good enough for that it seems.

 

[MoDoug]

this is how I do it, and it works very well
Took Me 4 Years To Figure This Out - YouTube

That's an informative video. Taught me more about the filing process, the gullet in particular. The pferd filing setup uses a large enough diameter file that sharpens the cutting edge and the gullet, keeping the proper pressure, angle and level at the same time.

 

[MoDoug]

I like the Stihl / Pferd sharpener a lot. Then I realized how different I was getting the tooth length from left to right teeth. The right always being much shorter - I'm right handed. We all hold tools differently though. I cut 16 cords over the last year, so I did a lot of sharpening. The files need to be replaced often, especially the raker file, or it does all kinds of goofy things to me; mostly uneven filing from side to side. Because of the "follower" design that rides along adjacent teeth, and my filing more on the right teeth due to pressure, I actually started to notice pulsing in my cuts.
I just got a Tecomec Super Jolly for myself and wrapped it up to open on Christmas. I need something to get the teeth all evened up and the 2-in-1 will go in the toolbox for touch ups in between. Still a good tool, but not for me at this volume.

That Tecomec Super Jolly is super nice, but at my volume I couldn't justify it. This year, an estimate, I've cut about 5 cords, and have about 4 more to go for my 4 year plan. Then, if all goes to plan, I'll be doing about 2 cords each year here after.

 

[MoDoug]

Did it cut crooked? A lot of times when the cut starts to curve the comments are to check the teeth. I've found that that matters less than wear on the bar. Some chains here even have half the teeth broken off one side, are down to nubs, and lengths all over, and they still seem to cut straight, as long as the bar is in good shape.
With the pferd, it's easy to lean into it a little from one direction, then push it at arms length from the other. So far I've been able to compensate, at least good enough for that it seems.

I have noticed it veering off cut lately, and I've been compensating by twisting the saw some. I bought this bar last year. I turn my bar over each time I sharpen my teeth. I have gotten my chain stuck a few times lately, by logs or trees collapsing on it, I know that hasn't helped.

Edit - Here's an informative video on not cutting straight.

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[Nealm66]

Does anybody have any experience with the Oregon round grinder? It’s about 350 in the madsens catalog

 

[CatfishHunter]

Truth-be-told I never sharpen my own chains. I have two chains for each bar length and when one gets dull, I drop it off at the hardware store. For $6 I am happy to keep the old man in business.

Does anyone use the Dremmel attachment for chain sharpening or is that like wearing a propeller hat these days? Only hand-sharpen?

 

[Sawset]

I have the dremmel attachment, and used it for years. Also a round hand file and flat file with depth gauge. And took chains in for sharpening. Then I broke down and got a pferd. That was almost an instant game changer. Pretty much dropped all the others and went with the pferd. The dremmel was fine, kind of. It didn't address the depth, needed power to operate, didn't seem to have much "bite" with the grind inserts I was using. Rock a chain and I was grinding for a long time. A file can be very agressive and gets it done in a couple swipes.

 

[Jags]

The dremel versions work ok, but with any electric grinder you need to pay attention to heat management. They can quickly blue an edge and ruin the temper of the tooth taking the hardness out.

 

[SpaceBus]

I see a lot more people messing up chains with hand files and the 2-in-1 than I do with a decent electric grinder. It only takes a second or less to sharpen each cutter with a grinder. I've even had to take off a lot of material and I didn't come anywhere near messing up the teeth, and this was on inexpensive Carlton chain.

 

[D8Chumley]

I’ve used the dremel, hand file, HF electric grinder, 2 in 1 and now the Granberg. After figuring out the Granberg I don’t use any of the others except 2 in 1. Love the Granberg

 

[MissMac]

I’ve used the dremel, hand file, HF electric grinder, 2 in 1 and now the Granberg. After figuring out the Granberg I don’t use any of the others except 2 in 1. Love the Granberg

curious if you use the file-n-joint to do your depth gauges, or if you only utilize it on the cutters? i know it can do the depth gauges, but i've never used it that way.

 

[SpaceBus]

curious if you use the file-n-joint to do your depth gauges, or if you only utilize it on the cutters? i know it can do the depth gauges, but i've never used it that way.

It can do both, but yeah, I use a separate guide and a flat file for that.

 

[MoDoug]

I see a lot more people messing up chains with hand files and the 2-in-1 than I do with a decent electric grinder. It only takes a second or less to sharpen each cutter with a grinder. I've even had to take off a lot of material and I didn't come anywhere near messing up the teeth, and this was on inexpensive Carlton chain.

I seem to be messing up my chain with my 2-in-1, but I didn't realize it until I noticed it. I'm going to keep with it for now, and pay closer attention and compensate if need be, at least for the rest of this season, then see where I stand.