Chainsaw cutting funny

[NRGarrott]

I am using a friends Husqvarna 50, and It seems to be cutting funny. If you cut with the first 4 inches of the bar, it cuts like butter, and If you dig the bucking spikes into a piece and lever down, it cuts fantastic, in fact it pulls you through the piece like it should, with very little force required. If you use the middle of the bar to cut, it seems to just spin and spin, and no chips are thrown at all, you can lean on it, and it cuts a little, but still hardly throws any chips. The saw runs very well, and has a brand new chain on it. Any ideas? Maybe a bar issue?

 

[Clarkbug]

What kind of a chain is it?

Even though its brand new, it wouldnt hurt to check the rakers on the saw. It sounds like it only wants to cut if you are digging in with it, and it should self feed.

If its a low-kickback chain make sure that none of the bumper links or shark fins are in the way.

 

[NRGarrott]

It is a yellow Stihl .325 oil-o-matic. I assume it matches the saw, he supplied the chain. I'll check the rakers tomorrow.

 

[kenskip1]

Sounds like the center of the bar is worn.The gap that guides the drivers is worn allowing the chain to flex side to side.At the tip the wear is not as worn.I would make sure that the chain tension is wear it is supposed to be.I have seen .50 gauge chain being used in a .58 bar.This is another possibility. Ken

 

[Clarkbug]

Ken makes a good point. Its worth pulling the chain off to see if the rails are leaning out. Is it the same issue if you flip the bar over?

Yellow Stihl shouldnt have the bumper links, and they are usually pretty good out of the box, but its worth checking rakers anyway.

 

[Corey]

Chain on backwards?

 

[NRGarrott]

The chain tension was loose, but not dangerously so, I could pull the chain maybe 3/8ths inch off the bar? I usually run my chains pretty tight as long at it's not binding, but I only had 2 small logs to buck. I believe the saw is from the early 80's, and the bar looks like it could be that old also. My friend really helped me out by loaning it to me, and I would love to do something to return the favor. I don't mind purchasing a new bar if that is what he needs.

 

[NRGarrott]

Corey, that was the first thing I checked.

 

[Clarkbug]

That seems like a really loose chain to me. Is it a hard nose or a roller tip bar?

Tomorrow go ahead and pull the bar off, look down the groove and see how the rails look. If they have a wire edge, go ahead and file that off, and then flip the bar over. Put the chain on and tighten it so that you can still pull it around by hand. You only want a little slack if you are running a hard nose bar. Otherwise the links should be touching the rails all the way around.

Its also possible that the bar just needs to have the rails closed some and ground flat again. A good shop can do this for you relatively inexpensively. Then again, if its a cheap bar to begin with, it might not be worth it.

But lets start with the simple stuff first!

 

[BrotherBart]

That is exactly what happens every time my chain starts getting loose on the 20" bar saw. Not so much on the shorter bar one. Not saying it is the problem here but...

 

[BrotherBart]

When you tighten the chain do it pulling up on the nose of the bar and hold it while you tighten the nuts.

 

[NRGarrott]

Thanks for the advice, I'll report back tomorrow.

 

[tom dee]

replace with a power match oregon bar the real stuff 50 was a entry level affair with a laminated bar out of box i owned two at one point .. funny how i can get 50cc and under stuff for free but tryin to find 64-120 cc even broke is a near thousand dollar experience.. i can repair most any of this mess dirt cheap . like all the refurbs on fleabay 500-over a grand pure stoopid

 

[Clarkbug]

Thanks for the advice, I'll report back tomorrow.

Any luck?

 

[NRGarrott]

I worked 24 hours yesterday on a busy medic unit, i didn't even take it out of my truck...But I guess if i have time to browse hearth.com, i have time to check it. I will report back in a couple of minutes.

 

[NRGarrott]

I just examined it, the bar has a noticeable lip on it on the bottom. The bar is also for a .058 chain, and I don't know what size he put on it, besides being a yellow roll-o-matic .325. I have the original packaging in my truck, I will check it tomorrow.

 

[Clarkbug]

Check the specs on the chain, and try to flip the bar when you get a chance to see if it cuts well on the other side.

 

[NRGarrott]

Kenskip, you were correct. .050 chain, .058 bar.... Thanks for the help everyone

 

[aussiedog3]

bar bent possibly?

 

[Clarkbug]

Glad you got it figured out!

 

[joel95ex]

I am using a friends Husqvarna 50, and It seems to be cutting funny. If you cut with the first 4 inches of the bar, it cuts like butter, and If you dig the bucking spikes into a piece and lever down, it cuts fantastic, in fact it pulls you through the piece like it should, with very little force required. If you use the middle of the bar to cut, it seems to just spin and spin, and no chips are thrown at all, you can lean on it, and it cuts a little, but still hardly throws any chips. The saw runs very well, and has a brand new chain on it. Any ideas? Maybe a bar issue?

do all of the thing already mentioned but also remember to "rotate" your bar and suggest that to your friend. this will reduce or delay uneven wear like the low spot/lip you mentioned. by rotating or flipping I mean remove the bar and mount it with its logo upside down--do this after heavy cutting sessions when you are cleaning out the saw

 

[TreePointer]

OP mentioned this was a friend's saw. I wonder how long the friend has been cutting with a mismatched bar & chain.

 

[clemsonfor]

You have a lip on the bar where the chain has worn it down. Take a flat file and cut the lip down on the side and make sure the bar is filled square on the top as well. You will feel what I'm talking about. But judge king from Tue number of replies I think someone will have pointed this out by now.

 

[clemsonfor]

The chain tension was loose, but not dangerously so, I could pull the chain maybe 3/8ths inch off the bar? I usually run my chains pretty tight as long at it's not binding, but I only had 2 small logs to buck. I believe the saw is from the early 80's, and the bar looks like it could be that old also. My friend really helped me out by loaning it to me, and I would love to do something to return the favor. I don't mind purchasing a new bar if that is what he needs.

You don't want it to tight as you can wear out your crank bearings are the seal on that side. Too loose will cause excess wear on the heel of the bar. The chain should be snug bit you should still be able to pull it from bar a bit.