Stihl 661 on Logosol chainsaw mill without side cover?

[Bill in the U.P.]

I recently bought a used Logosol M-8 chainsaw mill without the saw unit We sourced a Stihl 661 to use on it. Due to the side cover design on the saw, the only way I have been able to to get the depth of cut to align is to bolt the saw on the Logosol sled without the side cover. I placed a couple of washers between the extender nuts and the bar to clamp down the bar. I made one cut with it in that configuration and it seemed fine. Just curious if anyone here had any experience with the Logosol mill, etc... (as a side note, there is a Logosol Forum through Facebook but so far not very helpful).

 

[EbS-P]

Paging @SpaceBus

 

[SpaceBus]

I have an F2+, but using a 395xp, but the sled should be basically the same. The only modification I had to make was to remove the handle, and it sat perfectly. It sounds like you don't have the appropriate bar stud extensions that are supposed to be used with the sled. You could try ordering them from Bailey's Online (West Coast) or Fox Forestry (East Coast). I have seen people mill without a cover, but the Logosol chainsaw mills are designed to be used with a 660/661 or 880/881 (or their variations).

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

I have an F2+, but using a 395xp, but the sled should be basically the same. The only modification I had to make was to remove the handle, and it sat perfectly. It sounds like you don't have the appropriate bar stud extensions that are supposed to be used with the sled. You could try ordering them from Bailey's Online (West Coast) or Fox Forestry (East Coast). I have seen people mill without a cover, but the Logosol chainsaw mills are designed to be used with a 660/661 or 880/881 (or their variations).

Thanks SpaceBus and EbS-P. I called Fox Forestry. They had some good suggestions that should work. Lewis said there are extender nuts available that fit down inside the new "embedded nut" side covers on the 661. Another option is to find a 660 side cover. I am very close to dialing it in. There is a pic posted on the FB Logosol forum showing a carpenters square sitting on a large squared cant, spot on. A thing of beauty. : )

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks SpaceBus and EbS-P. I called Fox Forestry. They had some good suggestions that should work. Lewis said there are extender nuts available that fit down inside the new "embedded nut" side covers on the 661. Another option is to find a 660 side cover. I am very close to dialing it in. There is a pic posted on the FB Logosol forum showing a carpenters square sitting on a large squared cant, spot on. A thing of beauty. : )

Something like this

1125 640 1701 Chain Sprocket Cover for Stihl 024 026 028 029 034 036 038 039 044 046 064 066 MS240 MS260 MS290 MS310 MS340 MS360 MS380 MS390 MS440 MS460 MS640 MS650 MS660 Chainsaws https://a.co/d/bysDjO6

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Something like this

1125 640 1701 Chain Sprocket Cover for Stihl 024 026 028 029 034 036 038 039 044 046 064 066 MS240 MS260 MS290 MS310 MS340 MS360 MS380 MS390 MS440 MS460 MS640 MS650 MS660 Chainsaws https://a.co/d/bysDjO6

Bam! Exactly like that EbS-P.

 

[EbS-P]

I run a Chinese 660 on my Alaskan mill. at prices like that what breaks or falls off an I can’t find I don’t mind it to much. Captured bar nuts is generally a good thing. Saw on!!

 

[SpaceBus]

I run a Chinese 660 on my Alaskan mill. at prices like that what breaks or falls off an I can’t find I don’t mind it to much. Captured bar nuts is generally a good thing. Saw on!!

Normally I agree, captive bar nuts are the best.

Thanks SpaceBus and EbS-P. I called Fox Forestry. They had some good suggestions that should work. Lewis said there are extender nuts available that fit down inside the new "embedded nut" side covers on the 661. Another option is to find a 660 side cover. I am very close to dialing it in. There is a pic posted on the FB Logosol forum showing a carpenters square sitting on a large squared cant, spot on. A thing of beauty. : )

I'm glad you got in contact with someone that could help! With the mill dialed in properly it can make nicer lumber than a band mill, with a bit more kerf waste. My boards are near finish quality when I get my chain really sharp.

 

[Ashful]

If a 661 is to an 881, as the 066 was to the 084, I'd imagine you're going want to swap to a smaller sprocket before using said 661 on a mill. The 084 was a popular milling saw, but (at least the ones I used) were sprocketed to a substantially slower chain speed than any 064/066. They weren't fast, but they'd chew through a Buick without bogging. The 066, and I imagine by association the 661, are downright zippy on their stock sprockets, by comparison.

 

[SpaceBus]

If a 661 is to an 881, as the 066 was to the 084, I'd imagine you're going want to swap to a smaller sprocket before using said 661 on a mill. The 084 was a popular milling saw, but (at least the ones I used) were sprocketed to a substantially slower chain speed than any 064/066. They weren't fast, but they'd chew through a Buick without bogging. The 066, and I imagine by association the 661, are downright zippy on their stock sprockets, by comparison.

They do fine on a mill in stock form. Not sure about ripping massive logs on an Alaskan mill, but doing 24" and less is within the operating range of a 660/661.

 

[EbS-P]

The last cut I had to stop twice to refuel. That’s right two full tanks was not enough to make an 11’ cut with a 660. Chain could have been sharper but it was the last cut I’ll make on anything that big for a very only time.

Slabbing is a different game than lumber.

 

[Nealm66]

There’s a lot of advancements in band saws as far as smoothness, different wood types. I’m still getting the fine adjustments done on my new woodlands 130 with the trailer before I slice anything. I really enjoy my chainsaw mill and will still use it for over size. I’ve got it down pretty good and just hope I have more time for milling if the economy slips

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

I run a Chinese 660 on my Alaskan mill. at prices like that what breaks or falls off an I can’t find I don’t mind it to much. Captured bar nuts is generally a good thing.

Normally I agree, captive bar nuts are the best.


I'm glad you got in contact with someone that could help! With the mill dialed in properly it can make nicer lumber than a band mill, with a bit more kerf waste. My boards are near finish quality when I get my chain really sharp.

Nice. I'm excited about getting started. The saw came with a 25" bar and I ordered one ripping chain from Baileys to set everything up. Do you think I'd be better off with a 20" bar? (less drag, less length hanging out the side of the cut, etc...). I was planning on ordering a 20" bar and 5 ripping chains. I have about 20 cherry logs stacked up in my pole building waiting for me to mill. Nothing bigger than maybe 17" - 18" I do have some larger hemlock on deck but I could probably manage those with a 20" set up as well. I'd still have the longer bar and chain should I get into something I can't handle with the 20 inch.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

There’s a lot of advancements in band saws as far as smoothness, different wood types. I’m still getting the fine adjustments done on my new woodlands 130 with the trailer before I slice anything. I really enjoy my chainsaw mill and will still use it for over size. I’ve got it down pretty good and just hope I have more time for milling if the economy slips

My BIL bought a Woodland and loves it. Poor guy is too busy working to use it much though. I'm more or less retired and busier than ever but it is of my choosing. : )

 

[Nealm66]

The biggest thing with any chainsaw mill is the chains/cutting . Spacebus and EbS-P can probably help you better than me as I use a chisel bit grinder that comes with its own challenges. Here’s my 6ft mill with an 880 making some cants for a buddy a while back. I’m really hoping I can incorporate my mill into my logging and tree removal. One would think it would be like peas and carrots but not the case. I hope you share some pics when you get going

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

The biggest thing with any chainsaw mill is the chains/cutting . Spacebus and EbS-P can probably help you better than me as I use a chisel bit grinder that comes with its own challenges. Here’s my 6ft mill with an 880 making some cants for a buddy a while back. I’m really hoping I can incorporate my mill into my logging and tree removal. One would think it would be like peas and carrots but not the case. I hope you share some pics when you get going

View attachment 301406

Pretty cool setup. Thanks for posting. I'll get some pics along the way and post. Something is wonky with out Wi-Fi with uploading pictures. I usually have to take a ride down the road a couple of miles to get on a tower. Goofy.

 

[EbS-P]

Nice. I'm excited about getting started. The saw came with a 25" bar and I ordered one ripping chain from Baileys to set everything up. Do you think I'd be better off with a 20" bar? (less drag, less length hanging out the side of the cut, etc...). I was planning on ordering a 20" bar and 5 ripping chains. I have about 20 cherry logs stacked up in my pole building waiting for me to mill. Nothing bigger than maybe 17" - 18" I do have some larger hemlock on deck but I could probably manage those with a 20" set up as well. I'd still have the longer bar and chain should I get into something I can't handle with the 20 inch.

I’ll take some extra drag all the time to be able to cut one big log.

Doing any Serious milling you will want a grinder. Space had a thread or contributed to one where he decided on which one.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Yes, a grinder seems like a good idea. I like doing most things myself. Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly until you can learn to do it right. Lol.

 

[EbS-P]

Yes, a grinder seems like a good idea. I like doing most things myself. Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly until you can learn to do it right. Lol.

I took it as far as buying a roll of chain, making my own loops and by hand, filing to a 10 degree ripping chain. By bars are 28”,36” and 52”. I could get 2-3 cut out of sharp chain. But I never got the grinder. Space is has his dialed in. But the tree is. Now gone and I don’t see any more milling in my future.

 

[SpaceBus]

Nice. I'm excited about getting started. The saw came with a 25" bar and I ordered one ripping chain from Baileys to set everything up. Do you think I'd be better off with a 20" bar? (less drag, less length hanging out the side of the cut, etc...). I was planning on ordering a 20" bar and 5 ripping chains. I have about 20 cherry logs stacked up in my pole building waiting for me to mill. Nothing bigger than maybe 17" - 18" I do have some larger hemlock on deck but I could probably manage those with a 20" set up as well. I'd still have the longer bar and chain should I get into something I can't handle with the 20 inch.

I like having a 16" bar for making 4x4's and stuff like that and a 24" (25" for a Stihl) bar or everything else. The reason being that you won't cut those Cherry logs with a 20" bar, because of the way the mill is shaped. My 16" bar really tops out with a 10" log. I can also get away with using cheap Archer branded 3/8 LP chain with the 16" bar, but the 24/25" requires the fancy Stihl 63PMX ripping chain if you want to run 3/8 LP, and 25" is the max for that. If you need to mill a log larger than 20" you have to run a standard 3/8 drive chain and a longer bar, preferably with some method to stabilize the nose. This is where the newer F2 style sled is nice because they have an updated bar nose steering system that can accommodate longer bars. I have the older style bar nose steering system with the round tube, but it still works for 20 and 24/25" bars. Eventually I'll change to the newer style with square tubing. I'm pretty sure the F2 sled works with the older M8 mill.

 

[SpaceBus]

Yes, a grinder seems like a good idea. I like doing most things myself. Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly until you can learn to do it right. Lol.

Tecomec Super Jolly. Best money I ever spent for a chainsaw accessory. Worth it if you are milling thousands of board feet, otherwise the bar mounted jigs work just fine.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

I took it as far as buying a roll of chain, making my own loops and by hand, filing to a 10 degree ripping chain. By bars are 28”,36” and 52”. I could get 2-3 cut out of sharp chain. But I never got the grinder. Space is has his dialed in. But the tree is. Now gone and I don’t see any more milling in my future.

I like having a 16" bar for making 4x4's and stuff like that and a 24" (25" for a Stihl) bar or everything else. The reason being that you won't cut those Cherry logs with a 20" bar, because of the way the mill is shaped. My 16" bar really tops out with a 10" log. I can also get away with using cheap Archer branded 3/8 LP chain with the 16" bar, but the 24/25" requires the fancy Stihl 63PMX ripping chain if you want to run 3/8 LP, and 25" is the max for that. If you need to mill a log larger than 20" you have to run a standard 3/8 drive chain and a longer bar, preferably with some method to stabilize the nose. This is where the newer F2 style sled is nice because they have an updated bar nose steering system that can accommodate longer bars. I have the older style bar nose steering system with the round tube, but it still works for 20 and 24/25" bars. Eventually I'll change to the newer style with square tubing. I'm pretty sure the F2 sled works with the ol

Tecomec Super Jolly. Best money I ever spent for a chainsaw accessory. Worth it if you are milling thousands of board feet, otherwise the bar mounted jigs work just fine.

Looked the Super Jolly up. Not an inexpensive unit but looks well made.

 

[SpaceBus]

Looked the Super Jolly up. Not an inexpensive unit but looks well made.

There are certainly more expensive and less expensive grinders out there, but this is probably the least you can spend for a semi-professional chain grinder.

 

[EbS-P]

There are certainly more expensive and less expensive grinders out there, but this is probably the least you can spend for a semi-professional chain grinder.

The next step up is expensive$$$$

 

[Nealm66]

That’s what I have. It’s really no where near the best chisel grinder and really the budget model but it works fine for me. There’s a learning curve chisel grinding though that I would say be cautious about. Helped being a timber faller for 20 years where I could play with the grind with chains that never saw dirt or rock and burned through 12 to 40k bd ft a day