Chimney advice

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3650

Minister of Fire
May 8, 2011
934
midwest
I bought a air tight Round Lake stove about 10 years ago second hand. Its a horizontal tube about 40 inches long and about 3 feet in diameter, probably 3/8" thick. Its got a 16 gauge steel jacket around that with a blower that pushes air through it and out a duct on the top. There is a baffle on the top before the 8" chimney exhaust tube. This monster is in my basement. when I bought it I made the mistake of asking the insurance company if it would be alright and they said no. So it sat there. I'm now kicking around the idea of hooking it up anyway just to have a back up to my pellet stoves should the electricity go out. I do have several generators but would also like to be able to use the woodburner. I'm wondering what kind of chimney I should run. Single wall up to the first floor then double wall from there to the attic and out the roof, at least a 17' run? I'm venting my propane furnace out the brick and mortar chimney that appears to be original to the house. How ever I have not used that since I started burning pellets 7 years ago. Not once. I don't even know if it works. I wonder how much a rigid stainless liner would cost to run up that chimney? I'd like to keep cost to a minimum being the tight wad that I am. I've even considered putting the stove outdoors and running the forced air into the house in some fashion. Anyway. I obviously need some guidance. The only chimney I have ran was for the pellet stove and it was pretty straight forward. Its on mthe floor in the livingroom and goes up throught the attic and out the roof 13' run. Oh yeh, I am also planning on putting secondary burn tubes in it.
 
According to my reading, you never run any kind of stove pipe past the first penetration. From that point on it is strictly chimney pipe. In a basement install that means the stove pipe can only go to the area below the joists of the first floor. After that it is chimney all the way through the roof. Every time you pass through a floor or ceiling you need the insulated spacer to maintain clearances to combustibles and you cannot run the chimney exposed through a living space so it means building an enclosure that isolates that chimney but still maintains adequate clearances through each living space.
 
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Hmmm sounds like ill need to go up the chimney with a liner or drag the stove outside and go the forced air route.
 
So your insurance company is on record of saying we won't insure you with that hooked up. Are you self insuring now? If not, I'd find a different insurance company or one that will not mind it being installed. They have a really good reason not to pay should anything happen.
 
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Reactions: UMainah
Yup they are on record.....10 years ago and about 4 insurance companies ago.
 
Insurance companies differ in what they'll accept. Some companies will not insure any stove without a UL certification. Come up with a safe design, have it inspected and one of those companies may ok insuring it.
 
As much as we LOVE the stove, if it cancelled or endangered our insurance it would be outa here. We would hate it, but danged if I can afford to build this place again from scratch on my dime.
 
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