Chimney Extension

[jjf888]

When I bought this property, we did a gut renovation on the house but put off re-doing the roof. The chimney was obviously too low, so decided to add a draft inducer by Tjernland to get adequate draft. It has worked great, but leaves some concerns.

One being that anything mechanical will fail over time and needs to be cleaned periodically. Another concern is dealing with any power outages. I have a portable battery sogen that will provide power to the circuit, but again it is something to deal with.

So some ideas:
1. Add an extension pipe to gain adequate height and no longer use the draft inducer.
2. Add the extension pipe and then place the draft inducer on top of that pipe. The downside being that it would be a beast to get that thing installed at the new height.
3. Add the extension pipe and use a collar draft inducer IF adequate draft is not obtained.

Would appreciate any thoughts or insights on these options.

 

[bholler]

When I bought this property, we did a gut renovation on the house but put off re-doing the roof. The chimney was obviously too low, so decided to add a draft inducer by Tjernland to get adequate draft. It has worked great, but leaves some concerns.

One being that anything mechanical will fail over time and needs to be cleaned periodically. Another concern is dealing with any power outages. I have a portable battery sogen that will provide power to the circuit, but again it is something to deal with.

So some ideas:
1. Add an extension pipe to gain adequate height and no longer use the draft inducer.
2. Add the extension pipe and then place the draft inducer on top of that pipe. The downside being that it would be a beast to get that thing installed at the new height.
3. Add the extension pipe and use a collar draft inducer IF adequate draft is not obtained.

Would appreciate any thoughts or insights on these options.

Generally draft inducers are a bandaid to cover up the actual problem. Could you give us some more information about the whole setup?

 

[jjf888]

Generally draft inducers are a bandaid to cover up the actual problem. Could you give us some more information about the whole setup?

Sure. Morso 2110 that feeds out to a block chimney which rises up to just about two feet above the roof. The peak of the roof is a good 3-4' higher, thus the need for some solution to induce a better draft.

 

[bholler]

Sure. Morso 2110 that feeds out to a block chimney which rises up to just about two feet above the roof. The peak of the roof is a good 3-4' higher, thus the need for some solution to induce a better draft.

What is the overall height of the chimney? Size of the liner in the chimney? Pipe configuration etc?

 

[begreen]

The 2110 will draft on a 14' flue system if things are made as well as possible.

Show us your setup. Pictures are always welcome.

 

[jjf888]

What is the overall height of the chimney? Size of the liner in the chimney? Pipe configuration etc?

Chimney height is 9'. Roof peak is 13'. Clay liner is 8". Pipes are 6" Duravent.

 

[bholler]

Chimney height is 9'. Roof peak is 13'. Clay liner is 8". Pipes are 6" Duravent.

View attachment 306955

In that case yes you definitely need more height regardless of the roof. Modern stoves all pretty much need atleast 12' of chimney some need 15. You will want to extend with class a chimney using the appropriate anchor plate and bracing. Once you have the proper height there should be no need for a draft inducer of any sort

 

[jjf888]

In that case yes you definitely need more height regardless of the roof. Modern stoves all pretty much need atleast 12' of chimney some need 15. You will want to extend with class a chimney using the appropriate anchor plate and bracing. Once you have the proper height there should be no need for a draft inducer of any sort

Should I target being x feet above the roof line?

 

[begreen]

The setup I have used with this stove uses 45º elbows and a short offset instead. On the outside, it connects to a 12' tall, DuraTech 6" chimney. This works ok up to 50º outside temps, but above 45º, you need to know what you are doing, especially for startup. Once the kindling is lit, give it about 5-10 minutes to warm up the flue system before opening the doors again. Otherwise, you will have a lot of smoke spilling out when the doors are opened to load more wood. This is in a yurt. I will dig up a picture or two.

In this case, there are several things making things worse. The 90º shortly after the stove top, then dumping into a too large and cold clay flue on a too short chimney. These factors are conspiring to make a balky stove. The best solution might be to tear down the block chimney and replace it with a taller 6" class A chimney system.

 

[jjf888]

The setup I have used with this stove uses 45º elbows and a short offset instead. On the outside, it connects to a 12' tall, DuraTech 6" chimney. This works ok up to 50º outside temps, but above 45º, you need to know what you are doing, especially for startup. Once the kindling is lit, give it about 5-10 minutes to warm up the flue system before opening the doors again. Otherwise, you will have a lot of smoke spilling out when the doors are opened to load more wood. This is in a yurt. I will dig up a picture or two.

In this case, there are several things making things worse. The 90º shortly after the stove top, then dumping into a too large and cold clay flue on a too short chimney. These factors are conspiring to make a balky stove. The best solution might be to tear down the block chimney and replace it with a taller 6" class A chimney system.

View attachment 306958 View attachment 306959

So should a 6" pipe be matched to a 6" chimney to be functional and optimal?

 

[bholler]

So should a 6" pipe be matched to a 6" chimney to be functional and optimal?

Yes a liner in your existing chimney would definitely help. Or running straight up with a prefab chimney

 

[begreen]

So should a 6" pipe be matched to a 6" chimney to be functional and optimal?

Yes, keeping the whole system at 6" will definitely help. The optimal installation would be going straight up and through the roof with at least a 14' flue system. Next best would be to connect to a stainless, class A chimney system in place of the cold, 8" clay tile chimney. Or, a 6" stainless liner could be dropped into the 8" tile and that too would help, though it will still need extending.

 

[jjf888]

Yes a liner in your existing chimney would definitely help. Or running straight up with a prefab chimney

Seems installing a liner would be an easier solution than tearing down the block chimney.

The 6" duravent connects to the 8" metal pipe that brings it through the wall. I have no idea what is beyond that or if it is simply dumping into block chimney. On the one hand, tearing down the chimney gives it a fresh start. But on the other, I don't know what can of worms that could open up.

 

[jjf888]

Yes, keeping the whole system at 6" will definitely help. The optimal installation would be going straight up and through the roof with at least a 14' flue system. Next best would be to connect to a stainless, class A chimney system in place of the cold, 8" clay tile chimney. Or, a 6" stainless liner could be dropped into the 8" tile and that too would help, though it will still need extending.

Yes, keeping the whole system at 6" will definitely help. The optimal installation would be going straight up and through the roof with at least a 14' flue system. Next best would be to connect to a stainless, class A chimney system in place of the cold, 8" clay tile chimney. Or, a 6" stainless liner could be dropped into the 8" tile and that too would help, though it will still need extending.

Does anyone make an adaptor that could sit on top of the square clay and adapt to a SS extension pipe?

 

[bholler]

Does anyone make an adaptor that could sit on top of the square clay and adapt to a SS extension pipe?

Yes most chimney manufacturers make an anchor plate for their chimney

 

[begreen]

Here's one for DuraTech.

And one for Selkirk SuperPro

 

[Vg3200p]

Not to hijack but @begreen Is your chimney supported by a tree? That's fricken awesome

 

[begreen]

Yes. It's not my place, but a close friend's that I helped with the installation. This was a hemlock. He took it down after 4 yrs. and has replaced it with a cedar now. We were looking for a used telephone pole or metal street light pole, but this was more convenient with the materials right at hand.

 

[kcmclellan]

Not to hijack but @begreen Is your chimney supported by a tree? That's fricken awesome

I was wondering about that myself??? 😊

 

[jjf888]

The setup I have used with this stove uses 45º elbows and a short offset instead. On the outside, it connects to a 12' tall, DuraTech 6" chimney. This works ok up to 50º outside temps, but above 45º, you need to know what you are doing, especially for startup. Once the kindling is lit, give it about 5-10 minutes to warm up the flue system before opening the doors again. Otherwise, you will have a lot of smoke spilling out when the doors are opened to load more wood. This is in a yurt. I will dig up a picture or two.

In this case, there are several things making things worse. The 90º shortly after the stove top, then dumping into a too large and cold clay flue on a too short chimney. These factors are conspiring to make a balky stove. The best solution might be to tear down the block chimney and replace it with a taller 6" class A chimney system.

View attachment 306958 View attachment 306959

Pretty slick setup! Do you have a flue damper on that setup? If so, when/how are you using it?

 

[bholler]

Pretty slick setup! Do you have a flue damper on that setup? If so, when/how are you using it?

It doesn't look like there is one. With minimal chimney height you won't need one

 

[jjf888]

Also, I read the risks of `persistent heavy firing' in the Morso material. What exactly would that be? Running it 24x7 at full blast?

 

[bholler]

Also, I read the risks of `persistent heavy firing' in the Morso material. What exactly would that be? Running it 24x7 at full blast?

Yeah pretty much.

 

[begreen]

With dry wood, this stove is a willing heater. The stovetop can be brought up to 600-650º easily. Keep it below 750º and it should last a long time. It's a very well-built little stove.

 

[jjf888]

With dry wood, this stove is a willing heater. The stovetop can be brought up to 600-650º easily. Keep it below 750º and it should last a long time. It's a very well-built little stove.

Do you know why they tac welded the door air vents closed? Would it run too hot if opened? Or is it a USA requirement?