Chimney Height/Clearence
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I figured thats what is was going to be, just the same as the lower roof line. What is the reasoning behind those clearences? I have heard from a couple different people, not professionals, that it was safety for sparks and also to help prevent down drafts.
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Any chance you can move the stove & pipe over so it is 10' away from the higher addition gutter face? Looks like it would only need to be moved over a few feet more.
I cant move the stove itself because its already in a corner as far over as it can go. But hear is an idea I was thinking of. Once I get through the ceiling and into the attic, can I use a couple of small bends/angle connectors to get it heading over more before punching through the roof? Or is that a bad idea? Another thing im guessing those connectors would probably be expensive and not save me any money and I could just go up higher.
If you have to use a couple bends to position the stove differently from chimney I would just do it inside the living space, single wall pipe is cheap.
For the sake of future cleaning and for best draft, you want to keep it as straight as you can. If that means you have to extend up 2' above the upper roofline because you're within 10' of it, I'd do it that way rather than introduce bends into the flue in the attic...even if it requires a brace, which it looks like it just might. (And yes, those Class A fittings aren't cheap). Rick
Either way is fine. I would take the following into account before making a decision:
I agree if rerouting with elbows, do it inside the room, not the attic space. Unless of course that corner of the room does not allow for it. The do it in the attic if ya have to, and have the room.
If you can do it in 30 degree or more gentle bends, it may not be much of a draft or cleaning issue. Many members here offset with elbows to get to the desired spot they need.
If you elect to go straight up, and extend the hright more, keep in mind, you will prolly have to remove a couple sections from the top, to be able to reach the top of the pipe to send brush down.
If you can or plan to clean from bottom up, that may not be an issue then.
Figure what is best for you, and what is going to be easiest to clean.
I agree if rerouting with elbows, do it inside the room, not the attic space. Unless of course that corner of the room does not allow for it. The do it in the attic if ya have to, and have the room.
If you can do it in 30 degree or more gentle bends, it may not be much of a draft or cleaning issue. Many members here offset with elbows to get to the desired spot they need.
If you elect to go straight up, and extend the hright more, keep in mind, you will prolly have to remove a couple sections from the top, to be able to reach the top of the pipe to send brush down.
If you can or plan to clean from bottom up, that may not be an issue then.
Figure what is best for you, and what is going to be easiest to clean.
Ok, so going straight up it is. The only thing that I can see being a problem is that the chimney comes through the first story roof about 3-4 ft from the eve, so once I extend it up beyond the second story eve, its going to be up there a little way to the point im not too sure how I am going to clean it. Any ideas?
Hogwildz said:
Yeah I dont have the space for it in the room to do the rerouting im pretty sure, but will definently look more carefully into it. For the sake of cleaning, I figured if I had to do some rerouting that I wouldnt use anything more than a 30 degree bend.
If I used two 30 degree bends, would that hurt my draft? How much harder would it be to clean?
I have never removed sections to clean them before, is that a hard task? I also havent ever heard of anyone cleaning from the bottom up? But im guessing that would be pretty messy.
Pagey said:
Grasshopper............He is the Sensea of wood burners. Mind like a trap, not sure what else is trapped in it though........
boisblancboy said:
2-30's should not be that much an issue with draft or cleaning. I think the air flow across upper roof would be more draft issue than the elbows.
Worst case scenario cleaning, is tie a rope to both ends of the brush and pull up & down with rope. You wont have to worry bout the rods needing to bend enough to get through that way. Although they still may work also.
Never had to remove sections, so can't help ya there. You could put a Tee at the bottom near stove and clean from bottom up. Still leaves the cap though, which is the biggest culprit of buildup.
Well if I did rerout it, then cleaning the cap wouldnt be a problem at all, since the pipe wouldnt be that tall and still easy for me to get too. If I dont rerout it and go straight up, with as high as I think it will have to be its probably going to be pretty tough.
Depending on which brand of pipe you use, you may be able to go straight up, and clean from bottom and still clean the cap from bottom.
My lining system uses a round cap with round screen. I bet a brush would clean it pretty well from the bottom up method. But I do mine from the roof.
My lining system uses a round cap with round screen. I bet a brush would clean it pretty well from the bottom up method. But I do mine from the roof.
You do not have room too offset in the attic.Too move over 2' you need 4' of vertical space. Just take the B measurement 10' on the horizontal (on the level) and go 2' higher. Put a chase on the roof so you con lean a ladder on it too clean it. Done deal we all live happily ever after.
I've been unable to find 30° offsets for single or double wall connector pipe...only Class A chimney. If somebody can steer me to where those are available, I'd really appreciate it. It looks as though you've already penetrated the roof, so offsetting now would mean a new penetration and patching the existing one...dunno, maybe you just got that thing stuck up there somehow. Removing a section or two of Class A, including the cap is no big deal...1/4 turn and lift, and it's off. That's how I clean my shop stove flue, whether I'm going top-down or bottom-up. Carry the top section (just 2' in my case) of Class A w/cap to the ground and clean it there. Clean the flue & stove. Put it all back together. There is a gizmo made by Gardus, called a "Soot-Eater". I have one, and I've used it to clean my shop stove flue. Works good, from the bottom up (although it could be used from the top, as well). Goes right through back-to-back 45°'s no problem. Mess is always a problem, that's why you plan ahead for what you're about to do. Rick
If it is that easy to take the sections apart then I guess im not too worried about it. No I havent penetrated my roof yet, I drew that chimney onto the picture.
Though, if it wasnt a big deal I would like to try and keep the chimney as short as possible just for looks, but its sounding like just going straight with it might just be the simpliest way to go about it.
How heavy is a section of Class A chimney?
Though, if it wasnt a big deal I would like to try and keep the chimney as short as possible just for looks, but its sounding like just going straight with it might just be the simpliest way to go about it.
How heavy is a section of Class A chimney?
Your 5' of space as you said is near the ridge. You would have to move the stove to the centerline of the roof under the ridgeline somewhere.
Where you have the pipe drawn, you have no where near the attic space for elbows. Looks like straight may be your best way. If its that easy to disconnect a couple sections, thats how I would go.
Fossil: Put those fossilized glasses on
Where you have the pipe drawn, you have no where near the attic space for elbows. Looks like straight may be your best way. If its that easy to disconnect a couple sections, thats how I would go.
Fossil: Put those fossilized glasses on
boisblancboy said:
Are you going to move the ceiling support box towards the peak?
If you are not .You do not have room. Too move over 2' from where the offset starts You have 4' of vertical space (within 2' of horizotal space) your roof pitch is not that steep. And a straight chimney always drafts better anyways. Also easier to clean.
No im not going to move the support box. I think I am just going to go straight up with it and be done with it. I took some measurements today and it looks like from the first story roof line the chimney will extend up about 12', which leads me to my next question. A 12' tall sectioned pipe isnt too tall to support with just some braces is it?
boisblancboy said:
12' outside the roof line?
You will need a minimal of 2 braces. I think they call for one every 5', but 2 should do the job. man that top brace is going to be long
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