Chimney install - before roof

[onesojourner]

I am in a bit of an interesting situation. We are building a house. The framers just finished up the decking on the roof (zip system). We are going to put a metal roof on. I talked to my roofer and he said he wants to have the chimney through the roof before he starts. So I need to get this chimney through the roof this weekend. I stopped by lowes last night and saw that they have a kit, I am not sure if this is what I need though. Also will not having the drywall up yet mess any of this up? Any ways if any one has any tips I would love to hear them. Some other things that could be issue, We don't know what stove we are going with and we don't know how high the hearth will be yet.

The stove is going right at the end the stairs like this:

and roughly the same view but before the decking is on:

and from the other side of the room:

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Not an expert but one thing to really consider is the clearance to combustibles behind and to the sides of the stove. This will certainly determine where the pipe goes through the roof. Not know what stove you want can be a problem. So if you have stoves in mind, maybe look at the side, front and rear clearances are.

 

[onesojourner]

Most of the stoves I have looked at are 18 inches (like the stove pipe) so I figured I would shoot for about 24 to be on the safe side.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Just sayin cause I always leave out an important detail and that would be the one!

 

[begreen]

It doesn't hurt to be a little generous in clearances, especially behind the stove. They are just the minimums. That will give you a little wiggle room in case you decide to change the stove later.That said, many stoves are less than 18" when installed with double-wall connector pipe. For example, the Jotul Castine drops down from 25" with single-wall and no rear heat shield to 7" with double-wall and a rear heat shield on the stove. Have you decided on the stove yet? How tall will the flue be from stove to cap?

I am more familiar with DuraVent piping, but I don't see an issue with the drywall not being up. It is just another rough-in. Measure thrice and don't forget to add in the thickness of the drywall for any measurement. Be sure to put the finishing trim in a location that will be easy to find when the trim starts going up. Note that the flashing in the kit may or may not be inappropriate for a metal roof. There are some different options for these roofs. Ask the roofer about that.

 

[Kevin*]

I've seen the selection at lowes and it sucks. After using Excel products i won't use anything else.
Really all you need right now is the flashing peice/support box which will go on after the hole is cut in the sheathing. location is up to you but if you don't have a stove yet that could run the cost up once you install the stove pipe with bends in the pipe.

 

[Kevin*]

 

[Jags]

Measure thrice and don't forget to add in the thickness of the drywall for any measurement.

Yep, standard drywall will be 5/8" thick or if high strength (ceiling board) is used, it will be 1/2".

 

[Hogwildz]

cant you set one section of pipe in place(supported and lined up well of course), then let the roofers & drywallers do their thing? Then you can slide the temp pc out and do the full stack install when the time comes?

Not sure of that brand, but most brands sell a "through wall kit" or "through ceiling kit" That has everything you need less the piping itself.

 

[dougand3]

I installed that Supervent Ceiling Support kit in the bottom of pic. It had everything (except stove pipe, Class A chimney and silicone caulk) for an asphalt shingle roof. Your metal roof probably needs a different flashing boot. Your roofer should know.

 

[Hogwildz]

I know a couple folks used a silicone based roofing flashing at the roof surface. Seemed to have good luck with it.

And make sure the "roofers" don't bring a 5 gallon can of roof cement anywhere near that install.
Not good for permanent seal, and very flammable.

 

[Stax]

I wouldn't rely on the roofer. I would get specifics from the manufacturer regarding the product and metal roofs. Sometimes contractors are just contractors if you know what I mean. Also, your Lowes might be different from mine, but I would shy away from big box stores their venting products. It seems like they have limited selection and what is offered is CHEAPO.

 

[Pallet Pete]

I wouldn't rely on the roofer. I would get specifics from the manufacturer regarding the product and metal roofs. Sometimes contractors are just contractors if you know what I mean. Also, your Lowes might be different from mine, but I would shy away from big box stores their venting products. It seems like they have limited selection and what is offered is CHEAPO.

I have helped install Supervent and have Simpson Duravent in my house from TSC it all meets code and in our case exceeded code. For the price I would never buy double or triple wall from a dealer it's to dang expensive. When we priced it out it was almost 3 times the price of Simpson and we have a perfectly fine and durable setup. My buddy has an englander 30 and Supervent and it to is excellent stuff ! Selkirk makes good stuff.

Pete

 

[Stax]

Sorry Pete, didn't see the Supervent Box. Was looking at that imperial crap. My Lowes doesn't carry the supervent. And yes, I have researched Supervent and fond it to be legit stuff.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Sorry Pete, didn't see the Supervent Box. Was looking at that imperial crap. My Lowes doesn't carry the supervent. And yes, I have researched Supervent and fond it to be legit stuff.

I would agree on imperial that stuff is junk !

Pete

 

[onesojourner]

thanks for the help guys. it all went very smooth.