Close Clearance Alcove

[begreen]

Seeing that your installation will already meet the clearance requirements for the stove you can run the durock strips up in the corners. The shielding is just extra protection. The metal sheeting is not heavy so if you can get a decent bite in the layers of durock it should be ok.

 

[p301]

Thanks begreen

So this morning i noticed water drips all over the the durock that i laid down to set my blue stone on. When i shined the flashlight up the chase there was tons of condensation on the chase cover. Like we discussed i removed all of the insulation that was against the house and installed roxul on the outside walls of the chase up to the roof level where there will be insulation closing off the portion of the chase above the house. The connection from the attic to the chase is closed up to act like a firestop. Once i install that insulation at the roof line the temperatures near the chase cover should be much lower however i would still think the problem will continue as i would imagine there will be alot of warm air going past the clearances in the attic insulation shield as well as a somewhat warm insulated pipe going through un-insulated portion of the chase. Im sure other people have been in the same boat do you think this is a problem that will go away once the insulation is in or do you think that i should cut an upper and lower register in the chase that is above the insulated section to keep the chase cooler?

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Once i install that insulation at the roof line the temperatures near the chase cover should be much lower however i would still think the problem will continue as i would imagine there will be alot of warm air going past the clearances in the attic insulation shield as well as a somewhat warm insulated pipe going through un-insulated portion of the chase. Im sure other people have been in the same boat do you think this is a problem that will go away once the insulation is in or do you think that i should cut an upper and lower register in the chase that is above the insulated section to keep the chase cooler?

It's not warm air temperatures that cause condensation against a cold surface, it's the amount of moisture in the air. Yes, warm air can hold more moisture than cold air but simply adding dry heat to a space (for example the radiation from the flue) you will actually reduce the possibility of condensation, not increase it.

The condensation you are seeing is caused by convective air loops. That's warm, humid air from your living space rising up and contacting cold surfaces and condensing on them before cooling and falling back down to be replaced by more warm humid air. The more air movement, the more condensation (for a given absolute humidity). I didn't follow this entire thread closely enough to know exactly what you have going on up there but the solution is to either block warm room air from reaching the cold surfaces or insulating the surfaces so they are no longer cold. Once you have a thermal envelope around the entire living space the convective loops will stop and so will the condensation. If there are any uninsulated enclosed areas, they need to be vented to the outside. Like soffits are.

 

[p301]

Woody The only insulated enclosed space is the chase that is above the roof line. the chase through the first floor and the alcove in the living area is insulated just like the house and is completely blocked off from the uninsulated section. Thats why im wondering if anyone puts venting in that uninsulated section of chase to try to keep the air circulating through it

 

[p301]

so on to the chimney the guy installing my stove is saying he would never put the galvanized pipe inside his own chase at his house since it would be sealed and i would never be able to see it again and it could potentially pit and compromise the insulation and i would never know. The store im buying the wood stove says im crazy to spend the extra money to put stainless inside the chase. The cost is about an additional 500 bucks. I have also read galv pipe is illegal for stove pipe in Canada so that raises some red flags to me. Im just curious what everyone on here thinks. by the way the pipe is duratech

 

[RobbieB]

Go with stainless.

 

[p301]

Thanks robbie i just placed the order. If anything ever happened to anyone in the house cause i cheaped out i could never forgive myself.

 

[p301]

After a full three days of screwing around here is the alcove with a hammered copper protected surface. The endeavor should be going in friday

 

[begreen]

Stunning. That's a lot of work. Did you do all the hammering too?

 

[p301]

Yes i did the hammering and the seaming there are some things i would have done different but overall i am happy with it. i was a nervous wreck all week between measuring for the hearth stone and having it cut and installing it with my brother in law. to cutting hammering and installing all that copper. I could not have done it without all the help i got from here so thank you. I have peace of mind and can sleep well knowing everything i did was correct and even overkill there were no shortcuts taken and i didnt cheap out anywhere just to save a few bucks

 

[begreen]

That will be a one of a kind alcove that you will enjoy for years. The Endeavor is a fine stove. It's going to look great there.

 

[p301]

Thanks i think when i get the stacked stone up on the rest of the walls it will look real sharp now if i can just keep my 2 year old off it with the markers I told my wife im putting the dogs shock collar on the kids to keep them away

 

[bfast250]

I told my wife im putting the dogs shock collar on the kids to keep them away

Lol! You are definitely not the first parent to think this...

 

[p301]

Finally got the stove in and a majority of the class a pipe i havent installed the telescoping piece because the inspector needs to see the heat shield above. Does anyone know if the endeavor just accepts the dvl pipe with no connector because it seems to fit better than the adapter. The place i bought my stove said to use a 6" piece of dvl to connect to the stove. Another guy said i needed the adaptor which fits worse than straight dvl and a guy helping me install my stove says i'm crazy to use either just hook it up to the telescoping piece do these connections get furnace cement?
Here is a progress photo

 

[RobbieB]

Magnificent!

 

[begreen]

Use what fits to the stove. On our stove there is no DVL adapter. The pipe fits snuggly on the stove flue collar. No furnace cement at the connections.

 

[p301]

Thanks begreen and robbie

I found it odd that my stainless pipe was magnetic i thought that it wouldnt be. I did notice some light surface scratches after it was installed.... probabally my fault would you think that is reason at all for concern?

Also i feel like the round ceiling support should have an attic insulation sheld after it passes through the first floor what stops a mouse or something from getting in there and making a nest against the pipe?

 

[begreen]

Thanks begreen and robbie

I found it odd that my stainless pipe was magnetic i thought that it wouldnt be. I did notice some light surface scratches after it was installed.... probabally my fault would you think that is reason at all for concern?

I think only the inner wall is stainless steel. Scratches will not affect anything.

Also i feel like the round ceiling support should have an attic insulation shield after it passes through the first floor what stops a mouse or something from getting in there and making a nest against the pipe?

Yes, there should be an attic insulation shield if above the ceiling support is in an insulated area. If it is in a chase, then that chase should be fully enclosed. If rodent intrusion is an issue in the house, then further protection, like lining the chase with hardware cloth may be a good idea. The best course of action is to prevent any rodent intrusion into the house, but sometimes that requires costly solutions.

 

[p301]

Above the ceiling box is insulated but totally enclosed with durock thr joints are all filled with thinset and fiberglass tape i cant see how they would get in but those things always suprise me with what they fit in. the second floor penetration i have the attic insulation shield i installed the heat stop radiation shield pointed up on the bottom of the 2x8 and the attic insulation shield also pointed up on top of the 2x8 with the collar around the pipe since the insulation is only 8" thick i dont see how the attic insulation shield is ever even near the insulation its the firestop shield that seems to keep insulation off the pipie

 

[begreen]

No one knows what will happen to this installation in the future. What if insulation is blown into the attic space a few years from now?

 

[p301]

True good point so that part is done correctly and the ceiling support box is installed correctly if i wanted to put an additional attic insulation shield above the ceiling support id assume it could only help i could cut it lengthwise put it over the pipe and rivet it back together. I dont like the way it looks like a big well up there for something to go into but as with most stuff i do totally unnecessary

 

[rippinryno]

I like that copper. I have a box of 2x3 squares of copper, it's heavy, i'd say 50lbs worth. I'm tempted to put this on the ceiling above my stove as a heat shield and to give it a neat look.

 

[p301]

Would you hammer it or put it up flat if the area is bigger than 2x3 i dont see why you cant make a grid using scraps from the other sheets or you can rivet it together all of the roofing places around here have copper rivets. Im actually considering making a small still and condensor worm as a decoration to keep on my hearth

 

[begreen]

They could be soldered together as an alternative method of joining.

 

[p301]

That would be impressive i watched some you tube vidoes on that and just decided id burn my house down in the process i just bent mine over on each other 1" although now that i have done it i reccomend stopping hammering about 2" before the end so you can seam it on itself 1" and 1" and have flat ends to hook together. The hammering and bending made it much more ridgid to hold up straight