Completely drained electric water heater and now it doesn't work

[bsa0021]

Used gas all my life, never thought about turning the power off first. I have a feeling I burned up the elements.
How do I know if both are bad or just one? Is there a way to check them w/o removing them?

 

[seige101]

With the power off connect a OHM meter on the element terminals. If you are reading OL (open line) or an extremly high reading that element is bad. A normal reading would be between 10-20 ohms depending on the wattage.

 

[bsa0021]

With the power off connect a OHM meter on the element terminals. If you are reading OL (open line) or an extremly high reading that element is bad. A normal reading would be between 10-20 ohms depending on the wattage.

I don't have an Ohm meter but I bought a water heater tester (wire & probe test light) at HD when I picked up an element. The upper element doesn't light the test light when placed on both terminals. The lower element lights when checking both terminals but it also lights where ever I put the probe.
Also, it looks like water is leaking out of the lower element (it wasn't before).

 

[Tarmsolo60]

Change the top element, thats the one you burned out.

 

[bsa0021]

Change the top element, thats the one you burned out.

What about the leaking lower element. Can I replace just the gasket? Odd that it started leaking after I drained it.

 

[Tarmsolo60]

the bottom element should still be electrically good, if a gasket will stop it from leaking that should be fine. Why did you drain it in the first place? just wondering

 

[Highbeam]

Rather than drain, you could have just let out water from the base valve to power flush it. No need to worry about burning up the elements. Simply draining the tank doesn't blast the crud out.

Elements are cheap aren't they? Your going to have both out, I would just replace them both.

 

[bsa0021]

Tarmsolo, I drained the tank after I put bleach in the tank to kill the bacteria (odor) in a house that sat for 1.5 years.
Highbeam, not sure what you mean by flushing the tank. What is the base valve?

 

[BrotherBart]

Oh this brings back memories. Drain the house plumbing and the water heater for an extended trip in the middle of winter. Come home in the middle of a January night to a very cold house. Light the stove and then go down and hit the well pump breaker and the water heater breaker at the same time. Call myself an idiot and turn the water heater breaker back off and head to town for two new elements the next morning. :red:

 

[PJF1313]

To save some more future headaches (not knowing the age of the HWH) you might, at least, pick up a thermal breaker, and a thermal relief valve for it also (it's the square thing on the upper t-stat with the red re-set button); or go all out and get 2 thermostats also.

If you're going to change both elements, you might just as well empty the heater again, install the elements (+extras), fill tank, purge air(open the highest faucet in the house to hot) then turn the breaker back on. The lower element MIGHT reseal under hotter temps, but I wouldn't chance it.

Word of advice - when you install the new elements, try to keep the closed loop end up - it makes changing them much easier. When they get older, they have a tenancy of drooping, and become a PIA to remove.

If you are only changing the upper, it CAN be done under "pressure" - close off the feed to the HWH (electrically and water); disconnect the wires to the element;
make sure no one in the house turns on ANY water (single lever fixtures are the worst in this event); quickly remove the old and install the new element. I've done it in the past, and got real good at it - loosing about a cup of water. The vacuum in the system keeps the water from drowning you.

 

[bsa0021]

I changed both elements but left everything else go since the WH was made in 2006 installed ???
The bottom element was physically broken. I should be good once everything heats up. Thanks!

 

[Highbeam]

Tarmsolo, I drained the tank after I put bleach in the tank to kill the bacteria (odor) in a house that sat for 1.5 years.
Highbeam, not sure what you mean by flushing the tank. What is the base valve?

Guess I wasn't clear enough. The base valve is the drain valve, this is the hose bib on the bottom of the tank. When everything is up to pressure and turned on you can open this hose bib to flush the tank. Hot water will blast out and suck out the muck from the bottom of the tank. This would also allow you to wash out the bleach water. The only reason I can see to empty a tank is to remove it or to change the elements.

 

[ROBERT F]

Heck, you were that deep into it, shoulda put a new anode in it to!

 

[cottonwoodsteve]

We bought a REPO with a water heater that didn't put out much heat. Top element was burnt open.
Bottom element was working but split open it's outer steel tube. Top controller was also flakey. I replaced the parts individually for about $80.
Then I realised some hardware stores have kits for about $60 that include everything.

The bleach may cause more rust temporarly if you have a slight rust problem. Rust is oxidized steel. Bleach is an oxidizer.

 

[semipro]

This site is a great resource for this. http://waterheaterrescue.com/