Concrete floor paint

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Here is my old garage (2005) before I retired to the mountains. Only con I had with them is they clacked when you walk.
Garage 12-19-05 012.jpg
 
Very nice!

The product I have settled on for our main isles at my manufacturing facility is PPG PSX700. It is a revolutionary product in that it goes down thin, bonds well and can be applied over itself years later WITHOUT abrading the surface. Just clean very well, dry and recoat. Huge time saver.
 
The product I had the best performance in industry was Silikal which is brand of Methyl Methacryilate. It was superior to Epoxy for durability. If there is need to recoat it, its just gets pressure washed and the new layer fuses into the old layer. In one application we put down a primer coat on a main truck aisle with continuous forklift traffic, due to some "issues" we didn't even put on a top coat, yet last thing I knew if was still in good shape 20 years later. It sets up in 20 minutes but does require surface prep. Since it bounds to itself, the contractor would block off an area and use a floor abrader that basically shot steel ball at the concrete to break the top surface. It was ducted to vacuum unit outdoors and really didn't create much dust. We could then follow with the primer. We could top coat in 20 minutes but usually did the primer over the entire floor and then came back and pressure washed then followed with a top coat.

http://www.silikalamerica.com/

Limitations with it is it has to be applied to complete dry cured concrete, the primer has low viscosity and it seeps into the concrete and any cracks sometimes a couple of inches deep. They add thixotropics to the top coat to form several viscosities and can color it. The other big limitation is that it has very noticeable odor when applied, it rapidly dissipates but while its being applied it smells like model airplane glue. Its not particularly harmful but it sure smells like it is.
 
I shouldnt have looked at racedeck.com
Now i have the urge to finish my garage, add recessed lighting to it, install drywall, paint and cabinets and put down racedeck.
luckily its bursting at the seams full of pellets and this is not going to happen :)
 
Another cool thing about race deck I should mention. When I moved to the mountains I took my race deck floor with me. Took around 1/2 hour to pack it up. I traded it for some chainsaws which was needed much more than a fancy garage floor in a mountain cabin.
 
We did our basement floor with Behr 1-part Epoxy Concrete & Garage Floor Floor Paint.

Sounds impressive, right? It's not. It doesn't peel up for no reason, but if you nick or ding it AT ALL, it comes right off. Move a chair, drop a screwdriver on it.....you'll see concrete.
 
Unless it is new concrete with very minimal traffic on it you will need to etch it or abrade the surface ( sometimes both) to prevent the chipping lifting problems- used to install a type of epoxy commercial type. If prep wasn't done correctly it was always a problem. The epoxy material itself was never the problem it was always the under lying surface and prep that was the cause. Petroleum products soaked into the concrete were the worst to deal with mostly had to deal with those conditions with High temp/ pressure steam units and degreasers that would break it down. Followed closely by a vac unit very time consuming. The epoxy was a 24hour full cure 2 part item. We also used a compatible sealer for really bad areas as the petroleum products would creep back up causing breakouts. Plants that were using steel wheeled carts we would not even bid on as those wheels will chew up anything put down. We did do a couple but no warranty on product life due to the steel wheel carts.
 
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