Conflicting advice... Jotul, Harman, PE... Fireplace installation

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That stove of mine in the pic is a 3.5 cubic foot firebox in a 31" tall fireplace. 19" of the 28" deep stove is inside the fireplace. Installing something that size in yours could be done in my sleep. Mine was a tad of a challenge.
Seriously!?? The specs on a T-5 say it is29.75" high. Your pic looks like it has way more than 1.25" clearance. Am I looking at the right picture?
 
If max firepower is wanted a 30-NC like mine or for PE stoves a PE Summit would work. Both are around 29" tall.
 
My Englander has a step top on it inside the fireplace that isn't obvious so much in the pic. When I took the pic I was squatted down a little low.

ETA: And you have to remember the height of the flue collar which is two inch tall and can't be seen on mine because of the camera angle.

Believe me. It is a tight fit and attaching that liner was no picnic.
 
Not to Bogart this thread, but aren't cast stoves pretty much timeless? I know they need rebuilt at certain points, but isn't that the point of a rebuild? Let me know if I need to start a new thread.
 
Not to Bogart this thread, but aren't cast stoves pretty much timeless? I know they need rebuilt at certain points, but isn't that the point of a rebuild? Let me know if I need to start a new thread.
That's what I thought too. But apparently my old Jotul (about 20 yrs old) is beyond repair, with some cracked and warped interior parts. It is certainly still usable (I used it last season) but I wonder if it is safe at this point. Repair guy told me to sell it for parts. A guy on Craigslist offered me $50 for it!
 
The three (side and back) plates in the F100 are a breeze to change out. Of course it is time to take it apart and re-cement all of the joints. But it would still be a small heater that only takes a 16" stick with the ends greased.
 
That's what I thought too. But apparently my old Jotul (about 20 yrs old) is beyond repair, with some cracked and warped interior parts. It is certainly still usable (I used it last season) but I wonder if it is safe at this point. Repair guy told me to sell it for parts. A guy on Craigslist offered me $50 for it!
I would think that it would be worth more than that by weight in scrap. However, I'm a sucker for old stuff so I may be steering you wrong. I did just move from a 50 year old, completely remodeled house, to a 120 year old, not remodeled house with matching barn. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain...
 
So.... I moved last spring and brought my old stove with me, an old Jotul 8. I was told by the person who I had look at it to do some repairs that it is well past its useful lifespan and needs to be euthanized (ie: it would cost more to fix than it's worth...)

So I am unhappily in the position of needing to buy a new stove. The house I bought has a stove in place, but it is a Jotul f100 and way too small (and there is no way I am going to buy 12" cordwood.)

The house is a ranch (single story) about 1700 sq. ft. but spread out so that it will not be easy to heat the bedrooms with the stove. I know I will still be burning oil, but want the stove to do a good share of the work heating this home. It will be placed at an existing fireplace, but for several reasons I've decided to go with a free-standing stove rather than an insert (feel free to change my mind on that.)

The repair guy did give me some advice: Get either a Jotul 500 Oslo or go with a Pacific Energy. He spoke very highly of the PEs, calling them bombproof (as in he never gets called to repair them.)

Well... after visiting several dealers (one of which told me point-blank that I have to use an insert if there is an existing fireplace, due to clearances etc), I pretty much decided on the PE Super 27. When I went back to the PE dealer he told me that I couldn't install that in a fireplace since it has only a top flue and would be too difficult to install and that I had to go with a cast iron stove or with an insert (the other guy at the same store told me completely different information!) Oh and by the way, they can't possibly deliver it till at least January (he was definitely not trying very hard to sell me a stove!)

Is this true? I like the PE for its simplicity, price, and good reviews.

Now I've looked at two more dealers and am impressed with what I've read about the Harmans (do they really get 17 hr burn times??? Is that even possible?) The repair guy is pushing the Jotul...

So here are my questions: Should I really not put a steel stove in a fireplace installation?
Harman vs. Jotul....The Jotul has side loading, but the Harman also has a top load feature.

Many thanks for any input!

The Harman is a downdraft stove compared to the PE or the Jotul stoves that use secondary burn technology. Downdraft stoves are usually more tricky to operate, better suited for 24/7 burners, and more prone to costly repairs of the refractory in the back of the firebox. See also here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/downdraft-stove-operation/
Be also aware that burn times are often "determined" by the marketing department. Unless you find actual owner reviews stating such long burn times I would be cautious.

If you are searching for long burn times take a look at the catalytic stoves from BlazeKing and Woodstock. The latter sells only factory-direct and is close to you in Lebanon. They have the new Ideal Steel at a great introductory price now which can be top or rear-vented like their other stoves. They offer a 6-month, no questions asked return guarantee.

For a top-loading stove check out the F50 Rangeley from Jotul. In contrast to the Harman it is a secondary burn stove.

Regarding the PE Super: The insert needs 15" top clearance to mantel or fireplace facing but it also has a cast iron top plate. Not sure if the number is not higher for the stove and whether you can reduce clearance with a mantel heat shield. I suggest calling PE.
 
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To my mind, a freestanding stove is a better option than any insert (no blower required, but you will find a floor fan blowing into the hearth to be very helpful.) I would suggest at least a 2 cu ft firebox., whether steel, cast iron or soapstone.

I put a Harman in my fireplace, and though it has served me well, I would not suggest the Oakwood for a number of reasons, as Grisu mentioned (longer learning curve, tempermental burn technology, potentially more expensive to maintain, easier to overfire, harder to dial down, etc, etc.). I will eventually replace it with a cat stove, probably a Woodstock. And no, I do NOT get 17 hour burn times of useful heat, not even half that... but Blaze King cat owners do!

If you end up buying a stove from a box store (perhaps an inexpensive Englander) or direct from Woodstock, rather than from a dealer, there are sweeps and installers than can do the install for you, rather than going through a stove shop/dealer, if you don't want to do it yourself. As you can already see, many dealers can not be depended upon for complete (or even accurate) information and service, so you've come to the right place by posting questions here. The notion that a fireplace MUST require an insert, vs. a freestanding stove, is utter nonsense.
 
The three (side and back) plates in the F100 are a breeze to change out. Of course it is time to take it apart and re-cement all of the joints. But it would still be a small heater that only takes a 16" stick with the ends greased.
Just to clarify: The stove I that is "beyond repair" is an old Jotul 8.... catalytic model. The F100 in the pics was in the house when I bought it and is just not big enough, so I am looking to replace it. As far as I know it is in great working order, and only a couple of years old.
 
Ah.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies.... This has been very helpful! At least I know I am not completely nuts with thinking I could do this in the fireplace, and I will take another look at the PE stoves. And I had never even heard of the Englanders, so I may take a look at them too. This is not an install I plan to do myself, but I do want it to work!
 
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