Crazy Secondaries!

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oldspark

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Any one ever notice after an hour or so into a burn with a big load of wood how the secondaries pick up and start sending flames almost all the way to the bottom of the firebox?
And I supposed to have low flue temps when the flames are wrapping around the baffle.==c
 
Put a magic heat reclaimer on it and be done or get a new stove.

Hearing this over and over is getting old.
 
Any one ever notice after an hour or so into a burn with a big load of wood how the secondaries pick up and start sending flames almost all the way to the bottom of the firebox?
And I supposed to have low flue temps when the flames are wrapping around the baffle.==c
I don't have this happen. Rolling secondaries do not shoot up and around the baffles on either of the non-cat stove that I have had.
 
Put a magic heat reclaimer on it and be done or get a new stove.

Hearing this over and over is getting old.
Moving this to the "things never heard on hearth.com" thread ::-)
 
Put a magic heat reclaimer on it and be done or get a new stove.

Hearing this over and over is getting old.

Sorry I thought I had a new twist on it with it being later in the burn and the secondaries reaching the bottom ofthe fire box.
Been looking for answers to the high flue temps since I put the stove in and I am sure you are tired of it.
Done just for you buddy.
 
I don't have this happen. Rolling secondaries do not shoot up and around the baffles on either of the non-cat stove that I have had.

Now thats the kind of thing I am looking for, I wonder why the difference.
 
Now thats the kind of thing I am looking for, I wonder why the difference.
The 30 is currently sitting at 610. Surface of the single wall stove pipe 6-8" from the stove top is 281.
 
For Pen's benefit this post was about crazy secondaries later in the burn.
The flue temp thing was supposed to be a joke, little man grinning being a clue.
 
Well once my wood gets going nice and if one moves i will get alot of flames and my flue temp will level around 600 and only drop while the stove is dropping. My flue temps are always higher then the stove top! A high burn is 450 for my shelburn so i dont know how im gonna have lower temps in the flue! I can shut it down and the stove will rise to 500 or just under and the flu will be higher. I may burn in the wood too long but if i dont it wont catch well and then i have to open it more. So it prolly all boils down to my 1 year old oak which is split smaller and at 17% or a tad more!
 
Ok on my Summit, its when the EBT opens up, not sure at that point in time I need more air (both flue and stove top are hot) but it is what it is.
 
Put a magic heat reclaimer on it and be done or get a new stove.

Hearing this over and over is getting old.
Question: is this forum for the benefit of your entertainment, or for helping members gain knowledge about their stoves?
 
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Question: is this forum for the benefit of your entertainment, or for helping members gain knowledge about their stoves?


If you have to ask...
 
Question: is this forum for the benefit of your entertainment, or for helping members gain knowledge about their stoves?

Trust me, I hope he figures out how to to run this thing soon.

Sorry if the tongue-in-cheek was a bit much, but we've been hashing this out for almost 4 years now.
 
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Ok on my Summit, its when the EBT opens up, not sure at that point in time I need more air (both flue and stove top are hot) but it is what it is.
The real issue is that you need a larger stove to meet your heating needs.
 
Trust me, I hope he figures out how to to run this thing soon.

Sorry if the tongue-in-cheek was a bit much, but we've been hashing this out for almost 4 years now.
Pen I just don't think that's fair, have you seen the posts from people who say they have exactly the same flue temps I have.
That's with more then one brand of stove also.
I thought it had to do with my set up but it sounds like some of the stoves just run with high flue temps and that's all I wanted to know and by me bring it up and have found a pattern from the people who were nice enough to offer there flue temps especially when they were high.
This post was about the fire picking up later in the burn and I said that, the EBT is doing that.
I know how to run a stove and have run it every way possible with the results the same, flue temps are higher (way) after reloads and start ups, then they are about the same for the middle part of the burn and at the tail end of the burn they are lower then stove top.
All I wanted was answers to my high flue temps and after 4 years of asking I now have it, nature of the beast.
 
The real issue is that you need a larger stove to meet your heating needs.

Also, if secondaries go crazy an hour into the load, that is probably the time it took for the last of the moisture to be boiled out of the wood, and the wood to get hot enough to truly outgas.

pen
 
The real issue is that you need a larger stove to meet your heating needs.
I am fixing the house to meet the stove.
This thread had to do with the fire picking up, had nothing to do with the stove not doing its job.
Never noticed the EBT being open for so long before.
 
Also, if secondaries go crazy an hour into the load, that is probably the time it took for the last of the moisture to be boiled out of the wood, and the wood to get hot enough to truly outgas.

pen
Pen the EBT is opening up.
 
You've tried a pipe damper right? You got me thinking of my flue temps which seem a little high to me. One thing I have noticed with my Keystone is the flue temps run higher top venting than rear venting, I've tried both. I think it has to do with where the cat sits and it sits damn close to the top vent collar and has less restriction than it would rear venting. Now I'm thinking pipe damper.

Hell, you may even need two pipe dampers in some situations. No sense in wasting heat up the stack, I can see why it's bugging you and hope you get it figured out.

That old Nashua had a bigger box and heated your house fine but you would think a more efficient Summit should compensate and do the same.
 
Pen the EBT is opening up.
Have you tried disabling the EBT? I think Begreen did it to his T-6 and he runs lower flue temps? Maybe it's just too much air for your setup?
 
I posted wh
I'd still go with a larger stove. But, that's me.
Don't think I need it do to the problems are when it bitterly cold and or a strong south wind, other wise the stove works great.
Stuck with the 6 inch flue, have thought about trying a NC30 (stove BB has) because it is more radiant and has lower flue temps, not sure how they compare in a side by side heat test. Common sense would tell me that if they can put out 600 degree stove top and a 300 flue they are wasting less heat.
 
Have you tried disabling the EBT? I think Begreen did it to his T-6 and he runs lower flue temps? Maybe it's just too much air for your setup?
Did not know that's what he did, might give that a try, high temp tape will be a quick fix. Thanks
 
You've tried a pipe damper right? You got me thinking of my flue temps which seem a little high to me. One thing I have noticed with my Keystone is the flue temps run higher top venting than rear venting, I've tried both. I think it has to do with where the cat sits and it sits damn close to the top vent collar and has less restriction than it would rear venting. Now I'm thinking pipe damper.

Hell, you may even need two pipe dampers in some situations. No sense in wasting heat up the stack, I can see why it's bugging you and hope you get it figured out.

That old Nashua had a bigger box and heated your house fine but you would think a more efficient Summit should compensate and do the same.
I had it in there for one year and it did not help, I thought it did at first but as time went by I don't think it helped.
Many have reported the same flue temps as me and the same concerns.
Some posted the other day their flames did not wrap around the baffle with their 30, different placement of the holes for the secondaries?
 
Also, if secondaries go crazy an hour into the load, that is probably the time it took for the last of the moisture to be boiled out of the wood, and the wood to get hot enough to truly outgas.

pen


makes sense, this is why my pellet cages start with the secondaries so quickly while the wood in there with it catches up later.
 
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