Damper and saving some wood?

[EatenByLimestone]

Why not fix the framing now? It'll be easier and safer.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

If you get a good, heavy wet snow you could lose your roof.

 

[hearthon]

I'm going to support it tomorrow and it's already bit supported with the 2x4 around the ceiling box. I just need to put another 2x4 in the gap and screw it in.

 

[bholler]

No I'm going to leave it for a bit, when I put up plywood I'll try and trim it to fit better. My roof is going to need to be replaced in a year or two so I'll probably just replace the whole support kit. Buy another box, bring it down more and support it nice and clean.

It really needs fixed. And should only take 20 mins or so.

 

[bholler]

I'm going to support it tomorrow and it's already bit supported with the 2x4 around the ceiling box. I just need to put another 2x4 in the gap and screw it in.

No you need to either add a new framing member running the whole height of the roof next to the box to replace the one you cut. Or double up the next one run cross framing that properly ties into the cut framing.

 

[hearthon]

No you need to either add a new framing member running the whole height of the roof next to the box to replace the one you cut. Or double up the next one run cross framing that properly ties into the

I'm going to double up the 2x4 going horizontally which will support it nicely.

 

[bholler]

I'm going to double up the 2x4 going horizontally which will support it nicely.

But you are then putting the load that should be spread across 2 framing members onto the center of one. It isn't the right way to do it.

 

[hearthon]

But you are then putting the load that should be spread across 2 framing members onto the center of one. It isn't the right way to do it.

No I would be spreading out the pressure on the two rafters left and right.

 

[hearthon]

This is going to incorporate the rafter I cut out and also get help from the other two rafters.

 

[bholler]

No I would be spreading out the pressure on the two rafters left and right.

Ok so the load of 3 rafters onto 2

 

[hearthon]

Ok so the load of 3 rafters onto 2

No ill screw the rafter I cut out into the second 2x4 also.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Tight fitting joints will give you better mechanical strength also. That board going left to right isn’t tight on either end.

 

[hearthon]

Tight fitting joints will give you better mechanical strength also. That board going left to right isn’t tight on either end.

Ya I know, the only problem with that board is that I screwed everything in front the inside of the box out. So I can't even take off any of the 2x4s that are already in place, all I can do is brace it more.

I honestly need this to last 2 years and after that I'll replace the shingles on top and the plywood that I cut into. I want to put a rock wall behind the stove in the future but can't because I'm almost at min tolerance.

 

[brenndatomu]

He yelled at me alot in the beginning but lately has been pretty nice

After seeing that framing pic I guess I can see why...that chimney is being held up by a lick n a promise.
A couple more 2x's, some construction screws, a measuring tape, a framing square, and a couple hours could make some huge improvements on the structural strength of your roof/chimney there.
You're sneakin up on it...just keep after it. 👍

 

[hearthon]

After seeing that framing pic I guess I can see why...that chimney is being held up by a lick n a promise.
A couple more 2x's, some construction screws, a measuring tape, a framing square, and a couple hours could make some huge improvements on the structural strength of your roof/chimney there.
You're sneakin up on it...just keep after it. 👍

Just finished reinforcing, now it has 2 2x4 with who knows how many screws all screwed into the rafters. I bet it's stronger right now than when I first started.

 

[begreen]

Shouldn't the support 2x4 be aligned to the roof angle instead of poking out below the ceiling rafters?

 

[hearthon]

Shouldn't the support 2x4 be aligned to the roof angle instead of poking out below the ceiling rafters?

Yes it should, but the nails from the shingles wouldn't allow me to put it flush.

 

[begreen]

Yes it should, but the nails from the shingles wouldn't allow me to put it flush.

That's got to be fixed before the ceiling goes up.

 

[hearthon]

That's got to be fixed before the ceiling goes up.

I'm not doing a ceiling until I change the shingles and do everything properly.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I honestly need this to last 2 years and after that I'll replace the shingles on top and the plywood that I cut into. I want to put a rock wall behind the stove in the future but can't because I'm almost at min tolerance.

Rock doesn't burn. Its not combustible.

 

[hearthon]

Rock doesn't burn. Its not combustible.

I know but it'll be pretty much touching to stove if I put it in

 

[bholler]

I know but it'll be pretty much touching to stove if I put it in

And?

 

[stoveliker]

To clarify, it is clearance to combustibles that matters. I.e. if you have studs at an inch over the clearance distance, and then add a few inches of noncombustibles (e.g. stone), that's fine for fire safety.

On the other hand there is also the issue that the stove needs to be able to shed its heat. The extreme case of bricks touching the stove wall won't be good for the stove as it might overheat.

Some stoves have thermostats, and setting them too close to a wall also may affect that operation.

I think your stove has an 8" clearance in the rear. Personally, I would not decrease the air space (by having noncombustibles on the wall) to less than 1/3 of that, i.e. 2-2/3".
That is the clearance you can decrease to if you have an approved wall shielding, suggesting that when the wall is protected by a convective heat shield, your stove still likes to have 2.67" of air space behind it.

 

[brenndatomu]

To clarify, it is clearance to combustibles that matters. I.e. if you have studs at an inch over the clearance distance, and then add a few inches of noncombustibles (e.g. stone), that's fine for fire safety.

See, I thought that was not allowed.
As in, if you are an inch over your minimum CTC, then adding 1.5" of something like rock (non combustible, but also low R value) on the wall, then you'd be 1/2" below minimum, because the rock could conduct heat to the combustible surface.

 

[stoveliker]

It's clearance to combustibles. Hence the "it's the distance to the studs that matters" (if studs are wood an no drywall b/c paper).