Damper Removal?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

19glendale

Member
Feb 1, 2015
38
Northern Virginia
Looking to get my project of a small freestanding stove (Century S244 (same firebox as Drolet Pyropak)) into my masonry fireplace underway.

I need to begin by removing the damper. It is integral to the masonry hearth, as the rotating activator handle is on the front face of the mantle. The house and fireplace were built in the late 1940s.

How should I go about attempting to remove the damper? My plan if I run into major issues is a sawzall with a hacksaw blade. I would like to go with the more methodical approach first, if possible.

Thank you.
 
The Flapper should be removable by taking out the screws or just lifting it out.
You could either remove the frame by cutting out the metal, or loosening the mortar around the bricks around the frame. If your frame is cast iron, using a hammer will sometimes shatter the frame. Using an angle grinder and cutoff wheel or sawzall is another option, it is a good idea to have an extra supply of wheels or blades. If you are skilled and confident enough to use a cutting torch, you could use it.
When removing a throat damper please make sure to have all the appropriate safety equipment. Eye protection, gloves, fire extinguisher and a good size cover to help keep everything clean and protected. Removing the damper can be a dirty job.
 
I used a cut off wheel and a hammer. You only need to remove enough of the framing to get your liner through.
 
I like the Sawzall and hacksaw blade. Just have to cut through a few pieces of steel, the Sawzall rules!
 
We usually use a grinder on cast damper frames set in masonry. It really burns through sawzall blades and takes 1/4 the time and effort to do. You also may need to pull a few bricks depending on the size and angle of the opening.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.