I'm sure it's partly operator error and getting used to a different stove, but I'm concerned about the damper rod bending. They are ordering me a new rod, we'll see!
Dauntless issues
- Thread starter SkipperH
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Woodlifer, carefully if you can, run your hand over the air intake cylinder in the rear of the stove, adjacent to the floor, do you feel the air entering? Is the flow the same when the primary air is wide open vs fully closed. I would do this to make certain the primary air control is working properly. Just be careful getting to it.
Thanks for the info. I will do that . Easy to get to and I have put my hand over it to see if it stopped the noise. Do you also have that "blow torch" sound for awhile as soon as you close the damper?
Yes, I actually thought the noise was because of the cat, however, where yours does not have the cat it must be just the route the air is taking and making that noise due to the force of the air. How is your glass looking, does it get sooted up pretty quick?
And the noise is the same no matter what the air intake is set on. Yes on the glass. Sitting here making a list of things to ask dealer tomorrow,. Hope to get some useful info!
And when the stove is cold and you close the damper handle can you see the damper door close inside the fire box?
Yes, I have noticed that the "blowtorch" sound does seem to go away after a short time after reloading and shutting the damper.
I could be wrong, but I believe that the "blowtorch" sound is the secondaries going.
Once the bypass is closed smoke goes through the bottom of the stove where air is added for secondary combustion. Then it goes through the cat as tertiary combustion. At least that is how my Intrepid Felxburn works and I believe all of the Flexburn models essentially operate the same way.
Every install is different. Can you provide complete details of the installation including stove location in the house and a full description of the flue system from stove to chimney cap?
TLDR: Horrible product that appears to be inconsistent across the line.
I have the same make and model of stove. It’s horrible in my opinion. So bad the dealer is going to swap it for a different manufacturer all together. My issues are thus:
Open the bypass, let it sit for a minute, then open the front door to load wood: smoke comes pouring in the room from the top of the door opening.
Talked to a fellow online, who has the same stove. This fella has video of the stove maintaining 500F, damper open and controlling intake with the side adjuster. Ran it the same way, and it hit 700F with the intake full closed and damper open.
I can’t adjust the intake to below 4 clicks from full open without it smoking and back puffing. That’s with a full 2 minutes between changes to allow it to adjust. Which means I can’t fully load the stove for the night and walk away like the manufacturer says because anything more than 3 splits and the thing will over fire.
Regardless of how i operate it, the glass gets blacked every time. It will be running 500+, and you can see the soot building up starting from the top center moving outward and downward.
The wood I use is kiln dried hardwood with a moisture content of less than 15% checked on fresh splits in random points of the cord stack. I also had the draft measured and, if anything, it’s too strong according to the tech. Personally, I have no idea what 2 mm vc means, but the dude was happy with it.
I have the same make and model of stove. It’s horrible in my opinion. So bad the dealer is going to swap it for a different manufacturer all together. My issues are thus:
Open the bypass, let it sit for a minute, then open the front door to load wood: smoke comes pouring in the room from the top of the door opening.
Talked to a fellow online, who has the same stove. This fella has video of the stove maintaining 500F, damper open and controlling intake with the side adjuster. Ran it the same way, and it hit 700F with the intake full closed and damper open.
I can’t adjust the intake to below 4 clicks from full open without it smoking and back puffing. That’s with a full 2 minutes between changes to allow it to adjust. Which means I can’t fully load the stove for the night and walk away like the manufacturer says because anything more than 3 splits and the thing will over fire.
Regardless of how i operate it, the glass gets blacked every time. It will be running 500+, and you can see the soot building up starting from the top center moving outward and downward.
The wood I use is kiln dried hardwood with a moisture content of less than 15% checked on fresh splits in random points of the cord stack. I also had the draft measured and, if anything, it’s too strong according to the tech. Personally, I have no idea what 2 mm vc means, but the dude was happy with it.
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