Dauntless vs Shelburne

[bert670]

New member and first post, been reading a lot of reviews and visiting a few shops and have narrowed my choice between the VC Dauntless and the Hearthstone Shelburn. We’ll be converting our attached two car garage into a living/family room this spring. It is attached to a center hall colonial (1800 sq ft) and the only entrance into the new room will be a standard size doorway that will be open (no door). The woodstove will be on the opposite exterior wall from the rest of the house. We’ll be running a double wall pipe through the interior of the house through the roof. The pro’s on the VC are the top loading and dust cover, and the pros of the Shelburn is the soapstone which will retain heat for a longer period of time. As of now we will be installing a stand alone heating/av ductless unit in the new room, so I’d like to run the woodstove in the winter as the primary heat source. Anyone that can provide input good and bad on with models would be greatly appreciated, as I’m having a very tough time deciding between the two.

 

[bert670]

forgot to mention, the room will be 350 sq ft with a 12’ peak ceiling, which we will have a ceiling fan installed.

 

[begreen]

Both the Shelburne and the Dauntless have been substantially changed in 2020. We have very little track record on either stove. Both will be radiant heaters and should have average burn times in the 8hr range depending on factors like room heat loss, outside temperature, wood species, desired inside temp, etc. The Shelburne non-cat prior to 2020 was a good medium-sized stove. The shallow firebox makes this primarily an E/W loader. The Dauntless is a re-engineered VC Resolute. In addition to the top-load feature it also has thermostatic operation.

 

[begreen]

forgot to mention, the room will be 350 sq ft with a 12’ peak ceiling, which we will have a ceiling fan installed.

That's a small area. If it is well insulated (including the floor) then these stoves may put out too much heat except on the colder days. That may be ok, a good mini-split can handle the load.

 

[bert670]

In addition to the top-load feature it also has thermostatic operation.

I’m not familiar with the term thermostatic operation, can you please explain?

 

[begreen]

I’m not familiar with the term thermostatic operation, can you please explain?

The combustion is thermostatically controlled for longer, more even heat.

 

[bert670]

begree, thank you very much for the replies. Hopefully someone that may have purchased either of the new stoves will be able to chime in. For now, it seems most people I've asked like the look of the Hearthstone, so it looks like that will likely be the stove I go with. Hopefully I'll be able to post a positive review this upcoming fall.

 

[SpaceBus]

I have no experience with either, but in your shoes I would go with the Dauntless. The thermostatic operation and cast iron will probably do more for heating your house than the soapstone.

 

[begreen]

I have no experience with either, but in your shoes I would go with the Dauntless. The thermostatic operation and cast iron will probably do more for heating your house than the soapstone.

The Shelburne is also a cast-iron stove. It has soapstone firebrick instead of conventional firebrick, but no top-loading or thermostatic operation.

 

[SpaceBus]

The Shelburne is also a cast-iron stove. It has soapstone firebrick instead of conventional firebrick, but no top-loading or thermostatic operation.

Thanks for the correction, in that case I have no idea!

 

[bert670]

I was wondering if the BK Ashford 30 would be a possible contender for the set up I described in the initial post. Wondering if it has a more well known track record with the new epa standards.

 

[PatrickWR]

So what did you end up going with?

 

[bert670]

Dauntless, ordered end of August and will be delivered this Saturday. Install is set for Monday. I’ll post a review once I’m a month into it.

 

[Ant428]

Dauntless, ordered end of August and will be delivered this Saturday. Install is set for Monday. I’ll post a review once I’m a month into it.

How has it been going for you? I just had one delivered a month ago and have been having problems with it every burn.

 

[bert670]

I can say I’ve had the problems running it that other people on here have. I’ve been getting it up to STT to about 450-500 before engaging the cat, occasionally I’ll have to open the bypass again and give it a minute or so before closing it to reignite and get the cat going. I’ll only do this when I notice the cat temp not climbing. I usually have the secondary air fully open (on hot and cold reloads) when I close the bypass to make sure I’m getting full combution, then I’ll close it one or two clicks at a time until I can see the cat is operating correctly. This is usually viewed in the fire box as mostly embers burning with maybe a small flame, but the embers will be very bright, and the cat gauge in the side will be between the middle and 3/4 on the scale. I’ve found that the cat likes more of a full firebox of wood to really get going.

 

[JeanneM]

I also have not had trouble except getting it started, but once going it does very well. We use ours for added heat and comfort, not to heat the house all the time. We have had ours since August 22 - so also still learning. I get my wood (Ash) from a neighbor with a tree service. After he delivered 2 loads of wood I showed him the stove and he said next load (which will be in the spring) he will send smaller splits - I think seeing the size of the stove showed him I would need smaller (in diameter) to get the stove going. I use kindling wood as well as fatwood starters. Sometimes it takes off great - other times it is sluggish. The Ash trees around hear have been dying of Ash bore for several years - I think some of my wood may be better seasoned then other simple because parts of the tree has been dead for awhile while other was fresher - just my guess I fish out the smallest splits to start the fire. Once started I can put in larger splits with no problem. I don't fill it up - just 2 to 3 splits at a time keeps me in the good zone on my stovetop thermometer - of questionable accuracy I shoot a small fan at the stove and that helps move the air. Even though installed properly, one wall feels a bit hot and the fan keeps that wall cool though I intend to make a guard for that wall - if the electricity or furnace goes out I will want to rev up the stove a bit to keep us warm.
I find that it needs a bit of tending to get started and that my husband starts a fire better than I do

 

[bert670]

I also have not had trouble except getting it started, but once going it does very well. We use ours for added heat and comfort, not to heat the house all the time. We have had ours since August 22 - so also still learning. I get my wood (Ash) from a neighbor with a tree service. After he delivered 2 loads of wood I showed him the stove and he said next load (which will be in the spring) he will send smaller splits - I think seeing the size of the stove showed him I would need smaller (in diameter) to get the stove going. I use kindling wood as well as fatwood starters. Sometimes it takes off great - other times it is sluggish. The Ash trees around hear have been dying of Ash bore for several years - I think some of my wood may be better seasoned then other simple because parts of the tree has been dead for awhile while other was fresher - just my guess I fish out the smallest splits to start the fire. Once started I can put in larger splits with no problem. I don't fill it up - just 2 to 3 splits at a time keeps me in the good zone on my stovetop thermometer - of questionable accuracy I shoot a small fan at the stove and that helps move the air. Even though installed properly, one wall feels a bit hot and the fan keeps that wall cool though I intend to make a guard for that wall - if the electricity or furnace goes out I will want to rev up the stove a bit to keep us warm.
I find that it needs a bit of tending to get started and that my husband starts a fire better than I do

How are you getting the initial draft started? if you roll up a piece of newspaper and light one end of it, you can put the lit end into the open bypass area and you'll hear your draft get established pretty quickly. I then use the lit end to light the rest of my prepped kindling and paper.

 

[JeanneM]

Bert670 -thank you - I tried that but only once so will try again. Usually there appears to be a good draw. However I had a sweep in to check the install - mostly to check a fireplace in a different room - and he said the elbow bends in my chimney could make starting harder too. The stove is on the main floor of a two story house and I did not want the chimney to go through the second story and reduce space in my daughter's bedroom - so it bends out, and then bends up the side of the house. Warming the chimney does seem to be key as if I fail with the first start, the second usually takes hold. I also tend to start the stove about the same time I make dinner - which takes my attention away from tending the stove - and the one drawback to the Dauntless that I agree with is it does need a bit of attending those first 20min..

 

[bert670]

I have a straight vertical run, so it’s a little easier for me. My dad has a 90 degree inside then a T outside, he had issues with initial draft with his Jotul. He’s been using a heat gun to warm up the inside of the flue, which he said has been a great help.

 

[GrumpyDad]

I have a straight vertical run, so it’s a little easier for me. My dad has a 90 degree inside then a T outside, he had issues with initial draft with his Jotul. He’s been using a heat gun to warm up the inside of the flue, which he said has been a great help.

Do you find the dauntless to be heating you out of the room? Are you pushing the cooler air into this room and warmer out somehow?

 

[bert670]

Do you find the dauntless to be heating you out of the room? Are you pushing the cooler air into this room and warmer out somehow?

On warmer days, say upper 40’s, the room can get a little hot. We’ll crack a window open if I play to keep it going. I was using a box fan in the other room about 10’ from the door and pointed into the room where the woodstove is. That seemed to help move air and regulate the temp in both rooms. Lately I haven’t been using the fan, and the furthest room from where my wood stove is has been staying at 70 degrees, so no need for the box fan at that point, seems the air is moving enough itself.

 

[JeanneM]

I actually love wearing shorts and T-shirt on a cold January day

My stove is in the corner of a living room / dining room L shaped - typical 1970's center stair two story - gets into the low to mid 70's temp - might get a bit higher - 76 or so on warmer days. The thermostat is in the living room so heat doesn't go on when we use the stove. The farthest room from the stove has an electric faux fire in an unusable fireplace (cracked liner) in the family room. Main floor stays comfortable except the laundry area on side of house far from stove. Bedrooms/ hall above the living room / dining room are OK (high to mid 60s depending on outside temp and sunny day or cold night) - bedroom have heaters if needed. My room - top floor totally opposite the stove gets cold - good for sleeping though. While the furnace doesn't go on, I keep the whole house fan on which also circulates air. I keep a heater on in the master bath because I'm a baby about being cold I'm not saving any money with heaters going - my gas bill is down but my electric is up.