Deep lintel - Wood insert options

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ewang

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 11, 2010
62
Wisconsin
Hello,

I was on my way to having an Avalon Olympic installed, when the dealer informed me my lintel was too deep, which was about 9". Per the Avalon brochure, the "Max Lintel" ranges between 2.5 to 5 inches. He also said that even with the offset adapter and an elbow, we would be pushing it.

I have a pretty big box that will fit a Freedom, Clydesdale or Olympic, but I'm having a hard time finding anything that can accept that deep of a lintel. My opening is 33"x27"x23" (WxHxD).

Any suggestions on how to make it work, or an alternate stove with a big firebox?

I really liked the idea of a non-flush insert, for cooking/steaming/etc.

Thanks all! Great forum this is!
 
Someone explain " Lintel" , My fireplace opening is 6'w x4'd x 25" high. I've had Two Big Buck stoves that slid right in, with enough room for me to scooch beside it to hook up the Pipe.... How does yours differ???
 
"Lintel Depth" refers to the depth of masonry/brick which is directly above where the insert goes. Its basically a structural header for your fireplace.

My issue is, an Avalon Olympic would have to be recessed into the opening in order for the flue to not interfere with the masonry lintel, or header.
 
Do you mean your flue is too far in the back of the fireplace? How many inches? Can you post a pic?

The Olympic is a rather shallow insert whose flue outlet is not far from the surround. Take a look at the Pacific Energy Summit. That is a North-South loader and the flue outlet is 12" from the surround. Maybe that is far enough in the back to make it work. The Quadrafire 5100i has similar specs.

Otherwise, you could try using an offset adapter such as this: http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/61/product/6-inch-Adjustable-Offset-Insert-Adaptor.html
However, draft may suffer and cleaning will be more difficult. How long will the liner be? Is it insulated?
 
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I guess another way of looking at it, is the flue of the existing masonry is too far back. This depth is determined by the lintel, which I measure to be about 9 inches. I'll try posting a pic tomorrow.

I looked at the PE Summit. That might work. Unfortunately, the closest dealer is over an hour away. But is probably worth the trip to avoid an offset adapter.

Liner will be 25 feet and I am planning on purchasing the insulating liner.
 
Here is current set up. Note the varying rock that will make an external surround impossible. Looking to trim surround panels for an inside fit.
 

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Here is a shot with the doors open. Note the thickness of the lintel, or top portion above the door.
 

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Could that be a heatform? https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/heatform/

The fireplace and chimney will need a good cleaning before the install. And are there loose bricks in the front? Maybe a certified sweep should take a look at it before installing anything. Were your measurements based on an empty firebox with the doors removed?
 
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Here is current set up. Note the varying rock that will make an external surround impossible. Looking to trim surround panels for an inside fit.
either can be done i have trimmed the surround to fit in or added a scripe strip and cut it to match the stone. If you are sliding it in just slide it back far enough that your outlet clears the lintel. You may also have to look at possibly trimming some of those brick on the lintel.
 
Another option could be to skip the surround completely and recess the stove a bit. A big Buck stove might work well here. Buck stoves can be installed as an insert or freestanding.
 
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This could be a Heatform. It has a rectangular damper (rotten) and its metal up until where the stone matches up to it.

Loose bricks in the front? If you are asking about the open slots, those are vents.
Around the doors, the mortar is definitely loose. But all stones are rock solid. I am going to have it professionally cleaned and inspected before installing anything.
 

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With loose bricks I meant that bottom row behind the door. Although it may just have been mortared in as bad as the door itself. Have you shown those pictures to an installer yet? I am pretty sure the door needs to come off which may not be an easy task judging from the pics.
 
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And the Big Buck vents all the way at the Back/Top, So it wont be tucked way back in the hole...
 
The VC Montpelier might work, relatively deep to the flue center line with an offsetting collar (flip it around for a 20 degree angled takeoff). FLush mountable, and with your all stone fascia it won't have mantel clearance hindrances by the looks of it.
 
Yes, I've had two dealers stop by and neither thought the doors were a big deal. The mortar should easily be chipped off and smoothed with fresh mortar.
The inside stones are not loose. I think the mason chose to leave them rough, rather than fill in the gaps. It will be a pain to clean, but once accomplished it will be fine.
 
Can the chimney handle an 8" liner? If so it looks like the big Buck 91 will fit. The Buck 94 is its non-cat equivalent. These are 4+ cu ft stoves.
(broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/model-91.html#.VcTe5hNViko)
(broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/model-94nc.html#.VcTf8RNViko)
 
Won't take an 8" liner unfortunately. And my dimensions wouldn't support those Buck stoves. They look great though.
 
Too bad about the 8". It looked like it would fit with minimum fireplace dimensions: Model 91 Bay 23 1/2"H x 31 3/4"W x 15 1/2"D.
 
The Osburn 2400 is adjustable for deeper installs. The Quad 5100i also has a deep flue collar
 
I was wrong on the liner. I have a 12x12 liner, so I have about 10x10 to work with on the inside.

I'll check out the Buck 91 and see if its a possibility.
 
Darn! The closest buck dealer is way over 200 miles away.
I wonder how I can get my hands on a Buck 91 price?
 
Phone call?
 
Self install. I've read too many positive stories of how to do it.
Good advice. I'll give them a call.
 
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