You may already know this, but at each burn level 1-5, there are six additional levels - 3 lower and 3 higher. If you've read discussions regarding Europa burn levels and someone mentions, "I've been burning at 3+2", this is what they are talking about. To access the trim levels, press and hold the hand or manual feed button (lower most right button on the board). The level of trim will be noted in the upper most window. Use the fan + or - to make your trim adjustment. These were put on the stove to help maintain the proper burn level in the pot. I was never able to maintain much more than a 3" ash bed in my old stove, so I used the trim levels as a way to better regulate the temperature in the room. The trim levels in the Paromax stove are a necessity because it is so air tight, you could overflow the pot if you wanted to.
Aside from the sealing the tear drop on the right upper side of the ash compartment as Lowcost has pointed out, the ash extraction shaft, the door handle and the burn pot are all sources of leaks that can be addressed in some fashion. Let's start with the easy ones first. FPI had some bad burn pots and they don't seat perfectly level. You will notice this by putting your hand on the top of the pot with the burn ring removed and try to move it back and forth. If it rocks in place, it is likely defective. You can turn it until the rocking is least noticeable and reassemble. I ended up getting a new burn pot because it was under warranty. Until I received it, however, I used some of the Rutland gasket cement (2000 degree cement, not silicone) and I would apply it to the bottom and the top of the burn pot before reassembling. It helped and it would turn to dust the next time you took the burn pot out for cleaning. Hi temp silicone would be an awful mess to clean up. The next time you turn the stove off, open both doors and put a flashlight behind the handles from the inside pointing out. You will likely see light coming through. Apply some high temp RTV with your finger to these areas. It may take a bit because they are small areas and you will have to work it in there. The ash auger shaft project is the most difficult, but I'm no mechanical whiz and I managed to get the job done. The cheapest and best solution I could find for sealing the ash extraction shaft involved a 3/4" pump seal (rated for high temperature) and collar from Grainger. You also need some sheet silicone ad RTV. I cut apart a silicone muffin pan for the piece that I used. Put the ceramic collar down on the silicone sheet, draw around it and cut it out. You want the silicone sheet to fit snugly around the 3/4" shaft. I took a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, sharpened the inside edge with a round file and used it as a punch with a hammer to punch out a nice hole. Take the ash extraction unit out. Then you have to take the ash extraction motor off. You will need another person to put pressure on the shaft from the inside of the ash pit before you start threading things onto the shaft. First goes the silicone gasket that you created. Next the ceramic disc and then the pump shaft seal (spring). Lastly, the retaining collar with allen screw goes on. Now that everything is on the shaft, approximate where the silicone washer cut from the sheet will make contact with the ash box and run a circle of high temp silicone around that circumference. Slide the silicone washer down the shaft along with the pump seal. Then, ask the person holding the shaft on the inside ash pit to put hold the lovejoy connector against the back wall while you compress the spring of the pump seal and tighten the allen screw of the retaining collar. The spring will have to be compressed a touch more than you think because once the ash extraction system is reinstalled, it will take some of the tension out of the spring. The compression of the spring can't be too much because you don't want to over stress the ash auger motor. Install the auger motor before reinstalling the ash auger system. This whole process took about 20 minutes and requires a little fanagling, but it was worth it. Here is a link to a picture of my finished install:
Regarding your electrical problems, you must have a loose wire or perhaps a loose fuse holder. I would assume that problems that are intermittent have to do with poor connections. I'm guessing here, but when controllers, boards or modules fail, they will not work at all.
Good luck and don't give up on this stove. I'm sure Lowcost can help you get parts if needed. I spoke to the person at FPI that handles the warranty and parts issues and trust me, you don't want to deal with him. He only wants to work with dealers.
I have been getting this error code this winter, as well. Have never seen it before. Refer to the user manual from Paromax (page 28) - http://www.paromax.ca/dir/files/Europa_75_english_manual_EUK-En-A_12_09A.pdfWas wondering if anyone can tell me what the error code C5 FF means? My Europa has been randomly just shutting down this winter with this error code coming up most often. Sometimes it shows the loss of power error code even though there has been no power interruptions. I've been running this pellet stove for years and never had any problems except for the auger fuse sometimes. Battery back-up hasn't worked for years either. Anyone know of anyone around CT who would come service this stove and possibly do the air leak fixes that are talked about in this forum? Thanks for any help.