Dialing in the Drolet Escape (1500, 1800 and inserts)

[oilcan1001]

On my Escape 1500, I do not have three holes drilled into the front lip over the air control knob.

I do have three holes on the inside of the stove, in the doghouse. (Doghouse being the lump which is centered in the front lower section of the firebox.) These holes only receive air when the primary air control is more than about 3/4 shut. When primary air is only partially shut the small intake hole is covered. With the primary air completely open to about 3/4 shut this hole is covered.
The primary air feed supplies air to the area above the door and serves as the door air wash which keeps the glass clean.
The three holes feed air directly into the firebox. My guess is that those holes supply air to help keep the fire burning when the primary has been shut down. Some people have plugged one or more of these holes to improve their stove. I am considering enlarging the small intake hole and developing a way to control the air flow thru that hole.

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Thank you for the correction and clarification.

 

[mouthfulloflake]

On my Escape 1500, I do not have three holes drilled into the front lip over the air control knob.

I do have three holes on the inside of the stove, in the doghouse. (Doghouse being the lump which is centered in the front lower section of the firebox.) These holes only receive air when the primary air control is more than about 3/4 shut. When primary air is only partially shut the small intake hole is covered. With the primary air completely open to about 3/4 shut this hole is covered.
The primary air feed supplies air to the area above the door and serves as the door air wash which keeps the glass clean.
The three holes feed air directly into the firebox. My guess is that those holes supply air to help keep the fire burning when the primary has been shut down. Some people have plugged one or more of these holes to improve their stove. I am considering enlarging the small intake hole and developing a way to control the air flow thru that hole.

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Thanks for that, I have felt around in there and I do not feel any holes. I will get a mirror and a flashlight and look closer ( mine is a 2100 if that matters)


so the small, medium, and large holes signify low medium and high burn rate when that boost air is shut off basically?

 

[Woodcutter Tom]

Thanks for that, I have felt around in there and I do not feel any holes. I will get a mirror and a flashlight and look closer ( mine is a 2100 if that matters)

When I was first told about these holes by another member here, I also felt around and did not feel anything. It was only after I took a photo that I saw the holes. The holes are not mentioned in the User Manual. When I asked SBI Tech Support about this, their reply was that Engineering wrote the manual and they did not want their competition to know about the holes. What makes things worst is that in the manual they direct users to rake the coals and ash forward before loading new splits. And what happens ....the holes get plugged. Brilliant!

so the small, medium, and large holes signify low medium and high burn rate when that boost air is shut off basically?

I can not venture a guess as to what these holes signify. Please post a photo of them. What relationship do they have with regards to the air control knob position?

 

[oilcan1001]

When I was first told about these holes by another member here, I also felt around and did not feel anything. It was only after I took a photo that I saw the holes. The holes are not mentioned in the User Manual. When I asked SBI Tech Support about this, their reply was that Engineering wrote the manual and they did not want their competition to know about the holes. What makes things worst is that in the manual they direct users to rake the coals and ash forward before loading new splits. And what happens ....the holes get plugged. Brilliant!


I can not venture a guess as to what these holes signify. Please post a photo of them. What relationship do they have with regards to the air control knob position?

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I believe these are the holes he is referring to. I did not find anything in my owners manual regarding them but I assume they relate to the air damper

 

[ABMax24]

I believe these are the holes he is referring to. I did not find anything in my owners manual regarding them but I assume they relate to the air damper

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It's a symbol, albeit a poor one, to signify all the way to the right is low and all the way to the left is high. My Matrix is similar, but uses triangles.

They have no functional purpose.

 

[oilcan1001]

Well here is an update on my Escape 1800.

I added a 2' extension to the top of my chimney because I felt I was not getting enough draft.
This brings my total up to about 15', give or take.
I am seeing a slight improvement in draft, but still can NOT close my air all the way down or everything starts to die off

Now I am focusing on temps and rarely do I go over 425 on STT. The one time I got over 500 it looked like my firebox was ready to explode.
I am only filling half loads so I can monitor and keep things in control. I haven't really needed long burns.
I use an IR gun and STT's peak at 350-425 and external flue temps peak about 275-300. I know the external flue temps are not ideal but it's what I have for now. From what I have learned here in the forums, if I double the outside flue temps it should give me an idea of the inside temp, is this a fair assumption ?

I have been reading that most are comfortable with 500 deg or better STT and 7-800 flue temps.
Should I be concerned about not reaching these optimum temperatures ?

 

[EbS-P]

Well here is an update on my Escape 1800.

I added a 2' extension to the top of my chimney because I felt I was not getting enough draft.
This brings my total up to about 15', give or take.
I am seeing a slight improvement in draft, but still can NOT close my air all the way down or everything starts to die off

Now I am focusing on temps and rarely do I go over 425 on STT. The one time I got over 500 it looked like my firebox was ready to explode.
I am only filling half loads so I can monitor and keep things in control. I haven't really needed long burns.
I use an IR gun and STT's peak at 350-425 and external flue temps peak about 275-300. I know the external flue temps are not ideal but it's what I have for now. From what I have learned here in the forums, if I double the outside flue temps it should give me an idea of the inside temp, is this a fair assumption ?

I have been reading that most are comfortable with 500 deg or better STT and 7-800 flue temps.
Should I be concerned about not reaching these optimum temperatures ?

Refresh my memory is your pipe single or double wall? I can’t close my jotul all the way down on 15’. A firebox full of flames is ok. Overdraft is not a concern. Pack it full and tight. A hot bed of coal outs off a lot of heat so a reload burns different than a cold start.

 

[oilcan1001]

Refresh my memory is your pipe single or double wall? I can’t close my jotul all the way down on 15’. A firebox full of flames is ok. Overdraft is not a concern. Pack it full and tight. A hot bed of coal outs off a lot of heat so a reload burns different than a cold start.

My stove pipe is single wall.
What do think about my STT & flue temps ?

 

[mouthfulloflake]

I believe these are the holes he is referring to. I did not find anything in my owners manual regarding them but I assume they relate to the air damper

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yes thank you!

and I did look inside the doghouse holes are there, hard to feel but easy to see with a light and mirror.
and ditto on raking the coals forward... derp

I have been using the three holes near the air control as a reference, as I assume they were intended, funny that the manual does not mention them though.

stove is burning very well, and I appreciate this thread greatly!

 

[EbS-P]

My stove pipe is single wall.
What do think about my STT & flue temps ?

For a stove that’s just cruising on low that seem good. Try a load at 1/2 open air and see what temps it settles into. With everything you’ve shared my guess is your draft is just marginally adequate. Colder outside temps and or double wall pipe inside would improve drafts. Just use way more kindling than you thinking you need. Get it off to a good hot start get the draft going and see what it takes to get up to 500 STT. Remember it’s a fixed secondary combustion. So if you need more air to compensate it has to come from the primary air inlet which you control.

 

[oilcan1001]

For a stove that’s just cruising on low that seem good. Try a load at 1/2 open air and see what temps it settles into. With everything you’ve shared my guess is your draft is just marginally adequate. Colder outside temps and or double wall pipe inside would improve drafts. Just use way more kindling than you thinking you need. Get it off to a good hot start get the draft going and see what it takes to get up to 500 STT. Remember it’s a fixed secondary combustion. So if you need more air to compensate it has to come from the primary air inlet which you control.

Thanks for your help Ebs-P.
My temps have gone down to mid 20'sF overnight.
From a cold start I can get the stove roaring pretty good in about 15-20mins and the peak STT is around 400-425 F. The temps I posted above are after a partial reload to an already heated stove ( I am still cautious of packing in a full load) and lowering the air to 50% or a little less. If I go any lower with the air it slowly starts choking out.

Am I understanding this correctly.....
-On start up or reload I should be getting max STT and flue temps
- then temps should settle down a little once I start closing off air
- 350F STT is ok when stove is just cruising

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks for your help Ebs-P.
My temps have gone down to mid 20'sF overnight.
From a cold start I can get the stove roaring pretty good in about 15-20mins and the peak STT is around 400-425 F. The temps I posted above are after a partial reload to an already heated stove ( I am still cautious of packing in a full load) and lowering the air to 50% or a little less. If I go any lower with the air it slowly starts choking out.

Am I understanding this correctly.....
-On start up or reload I should be getting max STT and flue temps
- then temps should settle down a little once I start closing off air
- 350F STT is ok when stove is just cruising

You won’t see high temperatures on a half load. Pack it full. that’s how they run best. Are you getting hot enough to see good secondary combustion? 351 F now blower is ok as long as you are getting a clean burn. I’d be checking how clean my flew was after a month.

 

[oilcan1001]

You won’t see high temperatures on a half load. Pack it full. that’s how they run best. Are you getting hot enough to see good secondary combustion? 351 F now blower is ok as long as you are getting a clean burn. I’d be checking how clean my flew was after a month.

Yes I am always getting a nice secondary burn.

So I just came back from checking on my stove and I've got the highest STT I have ever seen to date 600F. (on a partial reload)
The only thing I did different was use a few small pieces of Juniper ( this is a desirable fuelwood in my area).
This year I've been burning only pine and elm so far.

 

[EbS-P]

First fire of the season. Didn’t need as it will hit 62 today 59 right now. I call this a half load. Damper 15 degrees from full closed. Air control full closed. 811 degrees flue gas temps at the damper.

Edit. STT 551 center center. 611 center where the convective jacket stops.

 

[EbS-P]

I am finding that any cold start with flue temps at the adapter less than 775 I am still get some smoke out of the chimney.

 

[bioslayer]

You won’t see high temperatures on a half load. Pack it full. that’s how they run best. Are you getting hot enough to see good secondary combustion? 351 F now blower is ok as long as you are getting a clean burn. I’d be checking how clean my flew was after a month.

I beg to differ. I added 3 pieces of tamarack to a good bed of coals the other night into my escape 1500. In under 15 minutes my flue temp was 1200 degrees. Double wall stainless lined pipe. It was crazy cold outside, -35, and it was really cooking. No it wasn't a chimney fire it was just hot. Air control was wide open. So in my stove I do not need a full packed load. At least not with the tamarack

 

[EbS-P]

I beg to differ. I added 3 pieces of tamarack to a good bed of coals the other night into my escape 1500. In under 15 minutes my flue temp was 1200 degrees. Double wall stainless lined pipe. It was crazy cold outside, -35, and it was really cooking. No it wasn't a chimney fire it was just hot. Air control was wide open. So in my stove I do not need a full packed load. At least not with the tamarack

WAY different conditions Three splits on a 200 STT with my 1800i will spike the flue temps but STT won’t go over 500.

And leaving the air wide open sends all the heat up the stack instead of into your house. Don’t make a habit of 1200 degree flue temps.

 

[EbS-P]

Here is a top down start on a full load. Right now it’s 850F at the appliance adapter. I’ll try and keep it 750-850.

 

[oilcan1001]

Here is a top down start on a full load. Right now it’s 850F at the appliance adapter. I’ll try and keep it 750-850.

You have been very helpful, but I'm still unclear about something.
After reaching optimum temps at stove top and stove pipe and I start closing down air (to slow things down a little) my temps start to drop also.
Is this normal operation OR should I try to keep STT above 500F ?

 

[EbS-P]

You have been very helpful, but I'm still unclear about something.
After reaching optimum temps at stove top and stove pipe and I start closing down air (to slow things down a little) my temps start to drop also.
Is this normal operation OR should I try to keep STT above 500F ?

when I need less heat I keep STT 400-450. Right now it’s 450-525-450. Flue temps 790. If I go much lower I’ll get some smoke out the stack. But remember I have a diy turbulator and a damper and one or two dog house holes plugged with screws.

Edit added pic. Went full close on damper and air control. Dropped temps 20 degrees

 

[oilcan1001]

when I need less heat I keep STT 400-450. Right now it’s 450-525-450. Flue temps 790. If I go much lower I’ll get some smoke out the stack. But remember I have a diy turbulator and a damper and one or two dog house holes plugged with screws.

Edit added pic. Went full close on damper and air control. Dropped temps 20 degrees

when I need less heat I keep STT 400-450. Right now it’s 450-525-450. Flue temps 790. If I go much lower I’ll get some smoke out the stack. But remember I have a diy turbulator and a damper and one or two dog house holes plugged with screws.

Edit added pic. Went full close on damper and air control. Dropped temps 20 degrees

View attachment 323102

My draft is not strong enough to close off all my air. If I close 50% my flames start to die off. 25% is the most I can close and still this starts my temps to slowly lower

 

[bioslayer]

WAY different conditions Three splits on a 200 STT with my 1800i will spike the flue temps but STT won’t go over 500.

And leaving the air wide open sends all the heat up the stack instead of into your house. Don’t make a habit of 1200 degree flue temps.

Yes, I know this. I had gone outside to get another load of wood. I always leave the air control open when I add fuel. Just never that long. I've been burning wood for most of my life. I get how a stove operates

 

[EbS-P]

575 center STT 790 flue temp. Damper as shown, air 25% open. Blower on medium high. No smoke out the stack. This is about my minimum clean burn rate. I have plenty of high end output left and space my need tomorrow morning as we will experience our coldest temp since the stove was installed. But the basement temps really depends on how much hot water we use as the HPWH is down there.

 

[Woodcutter Tom]

UPDATE on my post #49.
This is an update on my stove since I made the modification I describe in post #49. I had air leaking from the bottom of the door into the firebox. This air would ignite causing an inferno inside the firebox. Multiple attempts to seal with gaskets, rtv, etc failed and the leaks continued. I welded a ridge into the stove body which would indent into the gasket with the hope that the seal would hold.
I am happy to state that the seal holds. I no longer have air leaking through the lower section of the door that will ignite inside the firebox. I get a small bit of leakage near one corner which results in a bit of soot on the glass, but the intense flames created is a thing of the past.

Another thing I did which has GREATLY increased my ability to get stove top heat is this: I had installed a secondary air slide damper. By closing this damper about 1/2 way, I was able to slow the speed of the secondary air from the tubes into the firebox. The result is that the secondary flames linger within the firebox, thus holding the heat longer in that area. This results in high SST. I can get the 625 F I longed for. I was a bit reluctant to use the secondary air slide damper as I had read about the 'balance' between primary air and secondary air. I use my damper in the stove pipe to control overall draft (about .05 " WC.). I now use my secondary air slide damper to control air flow coming out of my tubes. I am getting much better performance from this stove with these changes.

 

[Woodcutter Tom]

One more thing: My primary air control is very sensitive. Whenever I move it, I use slight fist bumps or finger taps. In Begreen's top down fire staring method he states closing the air 50%, then to 70% then to 85%. That is something I cannot do.
The slightest movement effects the fire in my stove. I usually adjust the primary air based on the flue temperature. In general, the temp will continue to rise, stabilize, then fall, stabilize and then rise again. With too much movement it may continue to rise, stabilize, then fall....and keep falling, until the flames are diminished significantly. They key is to get the temperature to stabilize where you get your best burn. It has become a balancing act that can only be learned by doing. And with every fire being different it takes a lot of doing.
If I make a mistake, I make any adjustment.
I do not chase my fires. I have seen up to 1300 F in my stove pipe. So now if I see 800 -850 F, I do not panic or worry. Blood pressure does not increase one bit.