Disconnecting double wall chimney pipe

[Mech e]

After installing my new stove I noticed my 1988 double wall pipe between the stove and ceiling needs a new coat of paint . I want to take care of that this summer but need to know how to disconnect the double wall pipe at the ceiling/ triple wall connection. I don't see any screws so it is not obvious to me.

Thanks in advance for any help here.

 

[begreen]

How it is detached and the type of compatible paint will depend on the stove pipe brand and date of manufacture.

 

[webby3650]

Just get a piece of cardboard for a shield and a can of stove bright paint and do it in place. Open a window, it’s no big deal.

 

[begreen]

It can be easy or a big deal if DVL, depending on the date of mfg. For a while Simpson DuraVent DVL was painted with a lacquer based paint. If you paint it with Stove Brite you will have a mess on your hands. I learned this the hard way with my 2006 DVL stove pipe.

 

[Woody Stover]

the type of compatible paint will depend on the stove pipe brand and date of manufacture...For a while Simpson DuraVent DVL was painted with a lacquer based paint. If you paint it with Stove Brite you will have a mess on your hands. I learned this the hard way with my 2006 stove pipe.

Could you tell it was a different kind of paint just by looking at it, or how do I figure out if Stove Bright will work, just try some on a small spot as a test?
We are thinking of painting my SIL's connector pipe to match the T5. Chimney is Selkirk Metalbestos installed around 2001, but I don't know if the connector would necessarily be the same brand...?
My other SIL has a painting business, so she will be "manning" the spray can.

 

[Woody Stover]

need to know how to disconnect the double wall pipe at the ceiling/ triple wall connection. I don't see any screws so it is not obvious to me.

At my SIL's the tailpiece of the support box and the connector pipe screws are visible, so I lucked out there. Maybe you can go in the attic and see what's going on in the support box? I don't know as much as webby and other installers would about how that stuff is fastened. I like his suggestion though; Paint it in place with a couple of box fans blowing in the windows to exhaust the fumes out of an open window near where you are spraying.

 

[begreen]

Call the manufacturer. That's how I found out. Even the stove shop was unaware of this change. A test swatch on the back side is advisable. It could be fine, but if it starts wrinkling badly then the paints are not compatible. I had to clean off a large area, lightly sand down, then repaint it with Krylon high-temp paint. It never has looked right since then.

 

[Woody Stover]

Wow, I just saw the screws around the bottom side edge of the support box...didn't see those when I took the pic. I would guess the bottom plate would drop down. Good deal, since I was wanting to see if the support box was done properly. I wasn't sure I could get very close to it from the attic, since the roof slopes down and it's only a few feet from the eave...might be tight and I don't want to slither my way back there on my belly in fiberglass insulation.

 

[webby3650]

I paint new and old pipe, all different brands all the time and don’t have issues.

 

[Mech e]

I have a can of stove paint from SBI that I thought I would use. It would be a perfect match with the stove.

I don't see any screws at the top connection, although there does appear to be pilot holes for them. Perhaps it is just pushed on?

I have no idea who manufactured the pipe. The labels that were on the pipe are no longer in place or legible.

I could try painting in place, but it is a bit tight in that it is an alcove install. I am a bit concerned about airborne paint floating about coating furniture and such. I guess I could cover the alcove opening with plastic sheet. Not too healthy though standing in that confined space spraying paint.

Perhaps I will have my chimney sweep come and clean out my stove pipe and see if he knows how to disconnect the pipe.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Mech e]

Wow, I just saw the screws around the bottom side edge of the support box...didn't see those when I took the pic. I would guess the bottom plate would drop down. Good deal, since I was wanting to see if the support box was done properly. I wasn't sure I could get very close to it from the attic, since the roof slopes down and it's only a few feet from the eave...might be tight and I don't want to slither my way back there on my belly in fiberglass insulation.

My setup looks very similar to yours, just pilot holes and no screws (I have more dust also ). I may try just carefully twisting connection to see if it comes loose.

 

[webby3650]

I have a can of stove paint from SBI that I thought I would use. It would be a perfect match with the stove.

I don't see any screws at the top connection, although there does appear to be pilot holes for them. Perhaps it is just pushed on?

I have no idea who manufactured the pipe. The labels that were on the pipe are no longer in place or legible.

I could try painting in place, but it is a bit tight in that it is an alcove install. I am a bit concerned about airborne paint floating about coating furniture and such. I guess I could cover the alcove opening with plastic sheet. Not too healthy though standing in that confined space spraying paint.

Perhaps I will have my chimney sweep come and clean out my stove pipe and see if he knows how to disconnect the pipe.

Thanks for the help.

Stove bright dries very very fast. I wouldn’t be concerned with it drifting around the house. You definitely don’t want to close yourself in there with it! Just use a piece of cardboard to shield the wall. Try it on a small place on the back of the pipe to make sure it’s compatible.

 

[Mech e]

Stove bright dries very very fast. I wouldn’t be concerned with it drifting around the house. You definitely don’t want to close yourself in there with it! Just use a piece of cardboard to shield the wall. Try it on a small place on the back of the pipe to make sure it’s compatible.

Okay, I will give the Stove Bright a try and see how it applies and looks. The nice thing about this solution is I don't have to wait until the season is over to paint the pipe.

 

[begreen]

Open up a nearby window and put a fan to exhaust the fumes. They are toxic and strong.

 

[Highbeam]

Stronger than about any other spray paint I’ve sprayed. Pow!

 

[Mech e]

Open up a nearby window and put a fan to exhaust the fumes. They are toxic and strong.

Stronger than about any other spray paint I’ve sprayed. Pow!

Hmm, might try original plan first.

 

[webby3650]

Hmm, might try original plan first.

It’s not that bad... worse than some other spray, but will dissipate quickly with a fan. Spray it at the cardboard to clear the nozzle of the clear goo that comes out first.

It could have been done a long time ago! What’s the problem?

 

[Highbeam]

It does dry amazingly fast so is pretty hard to run.