Discuss and evaluate this through-the-wall basement chimney installation...

[ponderosa77]

I have no affiliations with the video author but I would like to know any pros and cons of his installation. In particular, I have never seen a concrete wall pass through at 30 degrees:

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Discussion points:
-Is it possible to drill that type of angled hole through concrete using a core drill?
-Would this type of installation be any more likely to channel water in through the wall?
-Would this cause any red flags with building inspectors or with fire code?
-It looks like this would allow better draft than a horizontal pass-through.
-Maybe easier to pass through the soffit (cutting) rather than angled concrete hole (drilling) - effort on one side or the other....
-His stove pipe temperatures were lower than I expected them to be with the stove temp as high as it was although I wasn't sure if the pipe was double or single wall. Although internal pipe temp should be higher, do you think the chimney is over 250 at the cap?

I think his main reasons for the 30 angle through the wall are to raise the cleanout tee above grade, to allow enough horizontal run to standoff the wall far enough to clear the soffit overhang, to standoff the siding further than 2 inches, and to allow more rise in the longer-than-normal horizontal section for better draft.

Even if his chimney passed through soffit, I think the draft should still be better with the 30 angle than with a simple 0 angle through a 9 inch chimney.

Does anyone see any red flags with his installation?

 

[begreen]

I've never seen it done like that. This looks like an invitation for rain to run down the pipe and into the building, especially without a storm collar or outer sealing flange. But overall not a bad chimney installation with the exception of the angled pipe question.

 

[CountryBoy19]

"whenever we get the chance I'll put some silicone on there when I know it'll dry".

I think I understand what he was getting at; I think he is saying he is going to wait for it to stop raining before he puts it on that way it will "dry". Silicone doesn't "dry" it cures, and standard silicone off the shelf cures through a chemical reaction that requires water. The rain he is experiencing will actually HELP silicone to dry so he should be putting it on right then and there.

That being said, I don't see any major issues. Any water that runs down the stack should drip off the cleanout. The only part that should collect water that will run down the angled pipe is the short section of angled pipe. I think they need to put a "drip ring" or something around the pipe a couple inches shy of the concrete...

 

[velvetfoot]

My one experience at core drilling was only 4", but there are adjustments on the drill rig to drill at an angle.

 

[sean b]

I suppose the alternative would have been to build a well so that the pipe could exit horizontally. Aside from water infiltration, I don't see any other issues. And I'd use duct seal rather than silicone. Silicone will eventually need replaced.

I did a similar install up the side of the house but I notched the soffit and flashed it instead, keeping factory clearances with the chimney kit.

 

[velvetfoot]

I used duct seal (a clay-like substance) around those oil pipes I mentioned above, as well as a penetration to the house electrical panel that had never been sealed. What's nice about it, is that if something shifts, you can always do a "tune up" since it stays flexible.

 

[ponderosa77]

I suppose the alternative would have been to build a well so that the pipe could exit horizontally. Aside from water infiltration, I don't see any other issues. And I'd use duct seal rather than silicone. Silicone will eventually need replaced.

I did a similar install up the side of the house but I notched the soffit and flashed it instead, keeping factory clearances with the chimney kit.

I had the same thought regarding building a well, which comes with its own potential problems, not to mention additional time and expense.

Until I saw that video on YouTube, I had not found anything previously where anyone had done an angled wall penetration. In his scenario, couldn't he just install a storm collar just above the cleanout tee and then seal the hole appropriately?

He doesn't mention how much snow he gets in his area but that could be an issue. Could an insulated doghouse-type enclosure be built around the cleanout tee? The of course the flashing and collar is on the roof of that enclosure.

It looks like he put a stove pipe adapter right on the chimney section and then used (what I suppose is) a 30 degree stove pipe elbow to make the connection to his stove. I wonder if he could have added the other 30 degree chimney elbow (part of the 30 degree offset kit) to the end of the inside chimney run instead of using a stove pipe elbow or if that would cause problems with the fit of the stove pipe adapter?

Let's say he didn't need the added tee height above grade or additional distance from vinyl siding. I still like the idea of the 30 degree angle because it should really help with draft, safety, and clean up.

 

[bholler]

Olympia has a 30 degree wall passthru in their catalog. I have never used it but i know it is there

I used duct seal (a clay-like substance) around those oil pipes I mentioned above, as well as a penetration to the house electrical panel that had never been sealed. What's nice about it, is that if something shifts, you can always do a "tune up" since it stays flexible.

Is it non combustible? if not it cant be used around a chimney. I really dont know if it is or not though

 

[ponderosa77]

Olympia has a 30 degree wall passthru in their catalog. I have never used it but i know it is there


Is it non combustible? if not it cant be used around a chimney. I really dont know if it is or not though

Do you gentlemen think a 30 degree pass through would be better in general than a 0 degree pass through? I think it should be as it is much closer to a vertical rise.

I did wonder when he packed insulation around the pipe what type of insulation should be used. There is probably a type specified for that type of application around heat...

 

[velvetfoot]

Olympia has a 30 degree wall passthru in their catalog. I have never used it but i know it is there


Is it non combustible? if not it cant be used around a chimney. I really dont know if it is or not though

That's a good point. I looked up something similar in home depot, and it seems that 350f is about the max.