DIY Chimney Sweep

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brakatak

Member
Jul 1, 2013
114
SE Mass.
been seeing lots of talk on chimney sweeping. I plan to start cleaning my chimney, and wondering what you think is best set up to purchase.

Is the sooteater system good, recommended? looks easy to do with the flexible rods, which would be useful in my case. and can also do bottom up clean incase the roof is loaded with snow and ice.
or is there a better system to buy?

my chimney exceeds about 5' above my roof line, so seems like a flexible rod would be useful in this case. but maybe not, as I see the other systems have attachable poles, etc.
 
Soot-Eater is very popular here. I bought one based on the recommendations I received and have found the product works as advertised. Done 3 cleanings with it so far, 2 last year and one in Oct to start the season. Ready for the next cleaning next chance I get.
 
It is just a preferance of what you like, i would say. While the soot eater probably does do a good job, I bought a nylon chimney brush with flex poles and I also do bottom up cleanings. This system works for my and I am happy with it.
 
Most do use nylon or steel wire brushes but the sooteaters seem to be enjoying popularity lately. I'm not sure if either would be called the best. Must depends upon the chimney. If straight and you can clean either top down or bottom up, then a brush would be my first choice. If it has some bends, then I'd for sure try a sooteater.
 
When I had a terra cotta lined chimney I used a steel brush on it and the steel singlewall. On my current setup I still use the steel brush for the singlewall and picked up a sooteater for the liner. I'm really happy with it. I'd buy it again.
 
Very happy with Sooteater as well, and so is the clean freak Mrs. Blue.
 
I've always done top-down (using a brush and rods home-made from PVC pipe). But after having a metal roof installed a few years ago, and with my chimney coming out very near the ridge of a 10/12 roof, it's increasingly difficult (if not terribly dangerous, as the eaves of the 10/12 come to perpendicular 5/12s) to get up there (even my Korkers, a nice product, will not grip at that angle, and I must use a rope and prussik).

So I'm thinking of switching to bottom-up. I have always removed the connector pipe anyhow, as it seems easier than trying to clean the residue out of the stove. So here's my question: With bottom-up, how do you keep from making a giant mess on the floor ? (With top-down, I always just attached a trashbag to the bottom).
 
I think most who have to worry about a mess attach a trash bag and have a hole for the brush/rods somewhere up the side.
 
I purchased my Soot-Eater two years ago shortly after having the stove and chimney installed, along with two additional sets of rods since my chimney is approximately 26' tall. It is a prefabricated 6" double-wall insulated stainless steel chimney, with clean-out tee at the bottom. The tee cover is low to the ground, only 21" above the floor.

Although I have had only about 1/8" of soot and creosote build-up each time I have used it, the SootEater appeared to clean everything right down to the metal, except for a dark-brown patina (which is good, since bright shiny metal would have indicated possible scratching or abrasion of the stainless steel surface, something the manufacturer clearly warns against). I use the device twice per season, once in mid-season and again at the end of burning season. Although the manual strongly recommends that it is no substitute for an annual inspection/cleaning by a certified chimney sweep, I suspect this is a disclaimer for liability purposes. If it gets the chimney this clean at the end of season, I see no need for the services of a chimney sweep, except maybe once every couple of years to inspect the condition of the chimney near the top for any possible need for repairs if one prefers not to climb on the roof . I had a professional sweep to clean and inspect the chimney after the second season and he said everything looked good.

My unit and the extra rods I purchased are black, as opposed to the white rods shown in the video. I suspect they added the black outer jacket to protect the flexible rod from abrasion, but this appears to make the rod stiffer and a little harder to manage than the one shown in the video. I was not able to completely clean the bottom 2-3 feet of the chimney because the rod was too stiff to properly make the bend into the first couple of feet, even though I managed to follow their recommendation to maintain less than 90 degrees of bend in the rod. I may try a regular plastic brush with a short rod to clean the very bottom. A shortened version of their flexible rod would also work, to allow the drill to face straight up vertically into the chimney without the bend in the rod, while cleaning the first few feet.

Last time I used it, I think I held the device in one place too long while the drill was turning, and one of the rods at the bend broke in two right where I was holding it in position with my gloved hand. I think the secret is to maintain a constant up-and-down motion at all times while the drill is turning. My chimney cut-out is low enough to the floor that it is difficult to avoid approaching the 90 degree limit at the bend.

The plastic sheet the manufacturer provided for sealing off the hole while cleaning was totally useless. At first I tried cleaning without using anything to stop up the hole, letting the soot/creosote drop into a pan on the floor below. This was a little messy, but the main problem was that the rod would inevitably come in contact with the chimney at the opening of the tee, and the sharp edge of the interior sheet metal sleeve cut deeply into the outer jacket of the rod, and would have severely damaged each rod had I continued. Instead, I stopped and cut out a round disc the same size as the tee cover from a piece of scrap 1/2" plywood, drilled a slightly eccentric hole in the plywood large enough to pass the rod through, and fashioned a bracket to hold the disc in place at the bottom of the tee during the cleaning operation. This keeps the rotating rod spaced towards the centre of the entrance at the tee as it bends up into the chimney. The wood still leaves visible surface marks on the outer jacket of the rod, but doesn't cut into the black plastic sleeve the way the bare edge of the sheet metal did. The entire cleaning process takes less than an hour and leaves minimal mess when I remove the wooden disc and let the soot fall into the pan.

I believe the red trimmer string they use on the cleaning head is the same stuff used with a regular string-trimmer for lawn work, which I plan to try when it comes time to replace the string. It would be cheaper and available locally instead of having to wait for an order to arrive.

The SootEater is a good product, allowing routine cleaning multiple times during heating season with minimal time and cost, but someone who is knowledgeable and handy with a few basic shop tools will be more likely to have a satisfactory outcome.


Don
 
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I will probably need to clean my metal flue in the next few weeks. I cannot go on the roof due to snow and possible ice.
My question is regarding the Sooteater can it go around a bend of 90 degree. Feed back appreciated
 
I will probably need to clean my metal flue in the next few weeks. I cannot go on the roof due to snow and possible ice.
My question is regarding the Sooteater can it go around a bend of 90 degree. Feed back appreciated
I've got the sooteater and manual says 90 degree bends won't work
 
So what can I use to clean chimney that has a bend of 90 degree bend. Any suggestions are welcome?
 
The 90 degree angle is were the stove pipe connect with the liner in the chimney I attached a diagram so you can understand my setup.
 

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The 90 degree angle is were the stove pipe connect with the liner in the chimney I attached a diagram so you can understand my setup.
Not seeing image. If you can remove the elbow that's your best bet to using the sooteater. It will bend some but not 90 degrees
 
I know it is a 90 degree angle so the sooteater will no work
 
I cannot remove the second elbow as it is in the chimney and they are bricks around it
 
there are not options that I know of that will make those 90 bends so you can clean it in one pass. A chimney sweep would removing some pipe and do a top down and then clean the pipes from the stove and vacuum out the bottom of the chimney. I would get a a sooteater or 2 (I got 2 so I could have enough rods to get all of mine from bottom up). If you pull the pipe going into the wall you should be able to run the sooteater up, keeping the drill low will reduce the angle. When I clean my inset I basically have a 90 deg bend from the door to the liner and I haven't had any issues yet.
 
I work my SootEater through a similar setup to Damien's... solution was to push the rods all the way up to the cap without even hooking them up to the drill, then hook up the drill and back them out while spinning, and disconnect each rod as it comes out. Tedious, but it removes the excess pressure of forcing it through the 90 by making the angle less acute.
 
Mine is very similar to Damien's diagram, except the stove is configured so that the pipe comes directly off the rear of the stove and feeds horizontally, straight to the elbow through where the old fireplace used to be. It is an interior chimney but I have access because the original brick chimney was crumbling after more than 100 years and the bricks were literally turning to dust, so I removed the whole thing brick at a time, and the metal flue was erected in the empty chase. I can access the cut-out at the bottom of the elbow, so that's where I insert the soot-eater. Because the elbow is low to the floor, I can just barely get by with about 75 degrees of bend with the soot-eater, and I still managed to break one rod. After 2 seasons I had a chimney sweep clean and inspect the chimney. He climbed onto the slippery metal roof and went from top down and didn't even bother with the cut-out. He swept the chimney with a brush while an assistant ran the vacuum cleaner hose through the stove damper and pipe to clean out the soot as it accumulated in the elbow.

Damien, have you considered removing some of the bricks from the chimney just under the elbow, enough to gain access to the cut-out? If the chimney is exterior, a removable cement plug could be fabricated to close up the hole. I'm assuming the liner now functions as the chimney and that the bricks simply remain in place because you didn't want to remove them, merely providing support for the metal flue. My metal flue is surrounded by the house framing, observing all recommended clearances, and the wood gets only comfortably warm to the touch with a hot burn, so I would see no problem with just leaving the hole open if it is an interior chimney.
 
Damien, have you considered removing some of the bricks from the chimney just under the elbow, enough to gain access to the cut-out?
Yes I have but it would affect the integrety of the chimney
 
Donk sounds like he has it figured out. makes good sense to push it up one piece at a time then start pulling keeping less stress on the connections.
 
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