Do as I say, not as I do...

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Battenkiller said:
Geez, Lee, that thing must hold a whole cord.

Cord and a half, if you heap it up.
 
6 cord in that box. Have bigger boxes that hold 8 but I don't like running them cuz it puts me right at 13'6" and if wood is over the top theres a good chance of catching a wire .

Legal for 79,000 in NYS and 119,000 with the pup trailer.
 
I have Timbren's on my Titan and I think I like them. I have really only utilized there capabilities twice (I just put them on) and while I was not overloaded, it did keep the truck level and handled better with a load. I was worried that I would not like them because they limit the degree the rear axle can articulate. But having a level truck has proved to be a plus. IMO the rear of my truck squats more than I would like when I have my tandem axle trailer hitched up with a full load of firewood on board. A weight distributing hitch would be another option that is more complicated and costly.

Timbren's are basically big bump stops that replace the existing bump stops. I installed mine in about 20 minutes working at a leisurely pace but using pneumatics. Typically there is ~ 1 inch gap between the Timbren's and the frame. In most driving unloaded, you will enjoy your factory ride hitting the Timbren's every once in a while. My truck also has a Leer cap and if I load the back with a bunch of luggage, cooler(s), and a big dog, you only sitting about 1/2 inch off your frame and the ride will be firmer on the trip.

I typically do not overload my truck because I know I am risking the rear axle which is about $2700 for a new one before shipping and labor (I know the safety thing too). It is cheaper than replacing my truck. When I do replace my truck it will probably be a 1 ton as I am tired of limitations.
 
MarkinNC said:
...I typically do not overload my truck because I know I am risking the rear axle...

Precisely. Some folks just don't seem to understand that no matter what they do to suspension, brakes, whatever...it's the rear axle that has to transmit the weight of the load (and the truck) to the ground. Some of the aftermarket mods improve ride/handling...but none of them increase the load capacity of the rear axle. Of course there's a generous safety factor in the design (that's what us engineers do), and that's what lets folks get away with ignoring the manufacturer's specified load limits...a lot of the time. But not all the time. If you need more load capacity, then buy yourself a heavier duty vehicle, or change out the rear axle with something from Dana. Rick
 
fossil said:
MarkinNC said:
...I typically do not overload my truck because I know I am risking the rear axle...

Precisely. Some folks just don't seem to understand that no matter what they do to suspension, brakes, whatever...it's the rear axle that has to transmit the weight of the load (and the truck) to the ground. Some of the aftermarket mods improve ride/handling...but none of them increase the load capacity of the rear axle. Of course there's a generous safety factor in the design (that's what us engineers do), and that's what lets folks get away with ignoring the manufacturer's specified load limits...a lot of the time. But not all the time. If you need more load capacity, then buy yourself a heavier duty vehicle, or change out the rear axle with something from Dana. Rick
or drive the half ton 'til the axle fails, then replace axle and still be out less than the heavy duty truck. Good heavy duty trucks are sometimes hard to find. I find lots of half tons that have been treated like cars, and lots of heavy duty trucks that have been treated like heavy duty trucks, LOL.
 
I think the best way not to go over the payload of your truck is to use a trailer. I can haul so much firewood in a tandem axle trailer compared to even and 8 foot bed on a truck. I could easily haul all the original weights the OP posted down the highway at 55 or 65. But there is a expenditure of about $1500 in this part of the world for a decent tandem axle trailer.

Sorry about the digression off topic. It is sort of related right?
 
MarkinNC said:
I think the best way not to go over the payload of your truck is to use a trailer. I can haul so much firewood in a tandem axle trailer compared to even and 8 foot bed on a truck. I could easily haul all the original weights the OP posted down the highway at 55 or 65. But there is a expenditure of about $1500 in this part of the world for a decent tandem axle trailer.

Sorry about the digression off topic. It is sort of related right?
Nope, totally legit side note about the trailer. There are arguments against the trailer, too. Like having another registration/plate. And then there is maneuverability and having to make sides to hold the actual rocks ( not really a problem with firewood as there are ways to strap on the right trailer) And then there's the amount of space it takes in your driveway or yard.

Back to some more pros, though, I do admit to really liking the low profile a trailer provides when loading. I do have a trailer, but it's for small work and is also nice to have for towing behind my CRV. For instance, I towed a gas oven to my mom's last weekend and got >24mpg the whole way here. Can't do that in my empty pickup! Brought a piano and 65" tv back from inlaws 300 miles away and with that weight and profile I still got 22mpg on the CRV at highway speeds.
 
3400lbs...
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And that is with Timbren's WOW! If I ever trash my rear end a companie called Currie Enterprises with custom make you a 9 inch ford rear end (as well as other styles). I can't say for certain they would make them for your truck. The price is about the same as a new factory rear end. Although on a truck for the 97 era, you could probably find a junk yard rear end to bolt on.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/
 
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