Door gasket and the dollar bill test

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Beardog

Member
Jan 13, 2011
219
NW CT
I just replaced the door gasket on my Clydesdale after the old one started falling out. Used Rutland 1/2 inch gasket. The old gasket didn't pass the dollar bill test and the new one doesn't either. Should I try it on a warm stove or do I need to regasket the old horse? Thoughts on firing it up and seeing how it goes? I didn't stretch the gasket out very much on the instal, so I'm a bit disappointed.
 
I am pretty sure you want it to pass while cold.

Any of begreen, grisu and BrotherBart will know for sure, as well as several others I can't name off the top of my head.

I encourage you to keep the stove cold for a bit longer.
 
I would not be firing that dude up. If it doesn't pass when cold it means you have uncontrolled air entering the stove. Who knows what that will do when lit up.

Not all gaskets are created equal. Some are flat, some are round, different sizes, etc. You really need to get the proper size gasket to start with.

ETA: if the half inch stuff isn't big enough, move up to the next size. If you need a rather odd size you may have to work with a stove shop to find it. An example of the old gasket will help in identifying it.
 
Last edited:
The manual says 1/2" low density gasket so the size at least seems to be correct. Maybe there is more of a latch problem than the gasket? Check the hinges, as the door can be reversed and maybe they have come loose. The manual also talks about possibly adjusting the spring tension in the latch but gives no instructions how to do it. Maybe call Hearthstone or talk to your dealer.
 
Just adjusted the latch on my clyde after it failed the $ test. I could not get it to go tight enough. There was about 1/16" play in it. What I ended up doing was cutting down the length of the latch/bolt. Mine would bottom out on the cast handle and it would not adjust further. Cut it spun the cast handle farther than the set screw slot so the spring compressed more and I also removed one of the gold washers. Much better now. Not perfect but better. I have attached the instructions on replacing the latch in there it talks about how to adjust for a better seal. Hope it helps.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Grisu
I know my Jotul stove has some shims on the door hinges that are supposed to be removed if the door doesn't seal well. Does you Clydesdale have something similar?
 
Haven't seen any shims. I'm going to redo the job this weekend with less stretch on the install. Thanks for the help so far.
 
There are 3 thin shims on the latch behind the door. You can see them in the instructions. They are not shown separately but you can see them by the square neck part of the latch.
 
Well, I ripped the new gasket out replaced it with a new one. I didn't stretcu it out when putting it in and the door shuts snugly and passes the dollar bill test. Going to light it in a bit and see how it goes.
 
Just an update - burning well and glad I redid everything. Hit a really cold snap and happy to be getting the longer and hotter burns.

Thanks for all the help!
 
After you do a few gaskets it gets easy,don't stretch them. .I had a few get loose with that hard gasket cement. I use high temp silicon, much better.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.