Draft Inducer, wind cap, or extend chimney?

[ERNIEVO]

Hello all,

I had my Hearthstone Shelburne stove installed 2 years ago. It works great ONLY when the wood is perfectly and there is no down draft. I ruled out any factory defects so now dealing with the down draft.

A friend recommended I try extending the chimney another 2 or 3 feet which I’m prepared to do. However, the installer said it would extend too high above the roof line to be safe. And that was with support brackets. He recommended putting an expensive draft inducer on instead.

My roof line is a bit funky. Think of a Victorian house and the chimney is on the opposite side of the highest peak in the roof.

The other thought was a wind directional cap to deflect those winds coming down the roof line.

The install does have its issues that are the fault of House design.

Check out these pictures and let me know what you guys think. Much appreciated!!

 

[Ashful]

It doesn’t appear you’re lacking for total chimney height, but I wonder if you’re meeting the 2 feet above any point within 10 horizontal feet of the chimney? That peak looks closer than 10 feet, and it would appear the bottom of the cap (top of chimney) is less than 2 feet above that. Bracing is needed for every 5 feet of unsupported chimney, and we have countless members here running 6 feet and more above the roof penetration, with proper bracing. I wouldn’t consider that a show-stopper, unless I’m missing something.

Two things that caught my eye were the 90–degree elbow on the stove pipe, and the overall length of the horizontal run. In theory, dual-45’s will always draft better than a single-90, although that’s usually on an issue for folks with shorter chimneys. The horizontal run length may be a bigger factor.

Just some random thoughts, not the opinion of an expert. Paging a real expert: @bholler.

 

[mountain man 2]

I ordered a (draft) wind rebucer today from luxery metal. I have a great draft when there's no wind or there's a south wind....north wind the draft is not bad enough to cause any down draft as far as blowing smoke back into house when stove door is opened.....its that it is slow to burn even with the stove draft fully opened.
We live on top of mountain (or as some of you consider a mole hill), really we are about a100 ft. below the peak so I believe we get the downward air from a strong north wind causing somewhat of a down draft to slow the burn,....make sense??

 

[bholler]

I would add height there is no reason at all that you cant go up another 2 or 3 feet. Yes over all height is fine but when you subtract for the 2 90s and the 2 30s it is not that high. And a draft inducer is never a real solution it is just a band aid

 

[bholler]

I ordered a dratf rebucer today from luxery metal. I have a great draft when there's no wind or there's a south wind....north wind the draft is not bad enough to cause any down draft as far as blowing smoke back into house when stove door is opened.....its that is slow to burn evn with the stove draft fully opened.
We live on top of mountain (or as some of you consider a mole hill), really we are about a100 ft. below the peak so I believe we get the downward air from a strong north wind,....make sense??

Again a draft inducer is not a solution

 

[bcrtops]

At the coast ..............rooster tail caps always worked well to keep a draft going, especially when wind interfered, which was often the case.

 

[ERNIEVO]

Thanks guys!!

It doesn’t appear you’re lacking for total chimney height, but I wonder if you’re meeting the 2 feet above any point within 10 horizontal feet of the chimney? That peak looks closer than 10 feet, and it would appear the bottom of the cap (top of chimney) is less than 2 feet above that. Bracing is needed for every 5 feet of unsupported chimney, and we have countless members here running 6 feet and more above the roof penetration, with proper bracing. I wouldn’t consider that a show-stopper, unless I’m missing something.

Two things that caught my eye were the 90–degree elbow on the stove pipe, and the overall length of the horizontal run. In theory, dual-45’s will always draft better than a single-90, although that’s usually on an issue for folks with shorter chimneys. The horizontal run length may be a bigger factor.

Just some random thoughts, not the opinion of an expert. Paging a real expert: @bholler.

Thanks for the prompt response!! I knew going in the horizontal run was definitely going to be an issue. I originally wanted the stove farther from the wall but the installer recommended against it because it would lengthen the run. At least that's something he got right!!

I too thought the cap wasn't 2 feet above the peak. I will definitely be adding length to the chimney. Should I also add a wind directional cap to be safe??

 

[ERNIEVO]

I would add height there is no reason at all that you cant go up another 2 or 3 feet. Yes over all height is fine but when you subtract for the 2 90s and the 2 30s it is not that high. And a draft inducer is never a real solution it is just a band aid

Excellent!! Thanks for the info. I will add 2-3 feet. Should I also add a wind directional cap to be safe? I am 1/4 mile from water.

 

[Ashful]

I’d be inclined to try one change at a time, until I find a satisfactory solution. Call me a scientist, but if you go changing multiple things at once, you’ll always wonder which “thing” had which effect. Increase height, either with a temporary section of cheap stove pipe or with permanent class-A and bracing, and run it a week. Consider doing the cap if that doesn’t get you where you want, or if you still have trouble on windy days.

Those caps do improve forgiveness to wind conditions, by most reports here, but they can also be creosote traps. Get it to where it’s working well on calm days, and then treat the high-wind effects as a separate issue, if necessary.

 

[ERNIEVO]

I’d be inclined to try one change at a time, until I find a satisfactory solution. Call me a scientist, but if you go changing multiple things at once, you’ll always wonder which “thing” had which effect. Increase height, either with a temporary section of cheap stove pipe or with permanent class-A and bracing, and run it a week. Consider doing the cap if that doesn’t get you where you want, or if you still have trouble on windy days.

Those caps do improve forgiveness to wind conditions, by most reports here, but they can also be creosote traps. Get it to where it’s working well on calm days, and then treat the high-wind effects as a separate issue, if necessary.

And this I why I defer to the experts!! I will keep you updated on the progress!