Buying a new home with existing rear vent installation in finished basement. Want to install new stove . Question is whether to have top vent and then 90 degree in to flu or just keep straight rear vent. Chimney is block with clay liner and about 25 ' run.
Drafting issues with rear vent ?
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so.....there is currently a stove installed with a straight out the back pipe connection? depending on how high that chimney connect is off the ground, you may not be able to put 90 degree elbow on it. would that be causing the pipe connection to tilt down to the connector. if thats the case, i don't think i'd do it but look for a rear vent capability on the stove. less elbows permits a better draw/draft. jmho
It's pretty low, I would have to do some construction and put a new flu in to raise it. That's why I'm trying to figure out which drafts better. Straight out or up and out at 90 degrees ?
if you can find a stove that you like that has an out the rear vent, id go for that one. fewer bends create less draft problems. Jotul is known for out the rear venting. are you trying to heat the whole house or just primarily the finished basement?
I'd like to be able to heat the house . It's a 2300 square foot ranch with walkout basement . The room that has the stove is a den and would like to avoid roasting in there with a stove that's too big. I had an f600 in my old house and it was more than enough .
i have f3cb i heat my 1200 sq ft upstairs. i have a mostly finished basement that i have a PE Summit in but i seldom use it for two reasons. first, i use a lot of wood trying to heat the whole house with it. additionally, when i do that the downstairs is about 80 degrees because i have to run it at an increased burn rate to keep the upstairs around 70 degrees. i would think that if you have a stove in a den, its going to be pretty hot in there, especially if you try to heat the rest of the house. it would be better if it was more open. another thing about downstairs, it takes a while for it to get the rest of the house up to temp. one thing in my favor is that the basement is pretty much below ground and it seldom gets below 60 degrees unless it gets below 25 or so here in southern maryland so not running the stove is an ok option, using the little jotul to heat the main floor. seldom is the basement used so 60, even 55 is ok.
just a thought to consider.....would you be able to keep the current stove and get a stove for upstairs and run pipe for it? just wondering. depending on your situation, it might be better than buying a big stove to try and heat the whole house from down stairs. you could burn a smaller fire in the one downstairs when you are using the den or other rooms and use one on the main floor to heat a majority of the house.......just an option that might be just as cheap in the long run.
Take a look at the Woodstock Ideal Steel: http://www.woodstove.com/ideal-steel-hybrid
It can rear vent and can be run low and slow.
At 25ft either rear or top will work fine, I would recommend putting an insulated stainless steel liner in that chimney whichever way you go.
It can rear vent and can be run low and slow.
At 25ft either rear or top will work fine, I would recommend putting an insulated stainless steel liner in that chimney whichever way you go.
What is the exact height at the top of the current thimble or present stove? What is the current stove that is installed there?
The stove is an area heater. Heating 2300 sq ft from the basement is inefficient. In CT it's going to require a large stove. It is common to have to heat the basement to a high temp in order to have average 72º temps on the main floor.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
Yup your basement will be cooking. I heat my whole home from a basement stove, I've got to guess somewhere around 2300 sqft split equally between up and down. My stove is well located in an open area at the bottom of the stairs. That area is 81degrees right now, adjoining rooms downstairs are about 75 and my living room at the top of the stairs is about 73 and the farthest rooms upstairs are the bedrooms at about 71. So it can be done but don't expect it to be an even heat and expect the room/area the stove is in to be damn near nuclear.
Ok: it's been some time and we are looking to buy a new stove before Xmas. The walkout basement den is 420 square feet with a bedroom adjoining .We would like to heat that area and perhaps the room above. We have narrowed down our choices to the Morso 1710 Morso 2110 and Jotul f3cb. Any thoughts on which might be a better unit ?
I've burned in the F3CB and the 2110. The 2110 seemed to be able to fit a bit more wood and burn a bit longer, maybe 3-5 hrs.. It is a nicely made stove. Whether you like or don't like the double-door is a matter of taste. I like the F3CB single door a bit better. The F3CB we had was in blue-black enamel which is a gorgeous finish. It's an easy to run stove. I found the air control a little more crude than the 2110, but overall a nice little stove with a 2-4 hr burn time.
The 7110 firebox is not any larger. If you want larger consider the Jotul F400, Hampton H200, PE Alderlea T4.
Is there a way for the heat to get upstairs, like a stairway in the den?
Is there a way for the heat to get upstairs, like a stairway in the den?
Stairway is around the corner behind a load bearing wall. I am limited to about 25" to center on rear exit pipe though
We need to see a picture of the current setup or at least get the height of the current thimble. It's also important to know the ID of the current clay tile liner in the chimney.
I think he's wanting to rear-vent into the fireplace, and that might be a better choice as far as draft. Sounds like there is something already in there rear-vented.
Some of the Woodstock stoves vent that low, but they are more radiant. Even with a convective stove and a blower, it sounds like it will be tough to get much heat upstairs with that wall in the way. Is there a doorway to deal with, between the den where the stove will be and the stairway?
It looks like a Jotul F45 Greenville, a convective jacketed stove with blower option, would rear-vent at that height with the short-leg kit. But you've mentioned a lot of cast iron stoves...are stove looks a factor?
I think that to get heat upstairs, you may do better with a convective stove which heats the air, then you can try to move the warm air upstairs. A radiant stove like the cast iron models you are looking at are better at heating objects within line-of-sight of the stove.
I think that to get heat upstairs, you may do better with a convective stove which heats the air, then you can try to move the warm air upstairs. A radiant stove like the cast iron models you are looking at are better at heating objects within line-of-sight of the stove.
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