I purchased and installed myself a Drolet Eco-65 pellet stove. I read the directions twice before the install and referenced them frequently during the install.
The flue is 4" DuraVent Pro. It comes out via a tee, the bottom of the tee ends in a cap. The tee is rotated 45 degrees, then a 45 degree bend, then straight pipe up another 13 feet. It is all DuraVent run up inside of a factory built chimney internal to the house. The chimney is 8" triple wall insulated stainless. Both the top and bottom of the 8" are capped and sealed. The 8" has a proper stainless steel bird-proof cap.
It is wired as first stage via a Lennox ComfortSense 7000 thermostat (hard wired, with isolation relay). Second stage is an LP furnace. Stage 1 is 72 degrees, 1.5 degree swing, 6 degree deadband. The stove control is set to shut down on the heat call being satisfied.
This unit was banged around during shipping. It had a gouge behind the shipping material on the left door panel and the front handle has some paint missing.
On initial startup it ran fine on manual. I ran it hot to cure the paint. Then the thermostat took over. Within 1 day the bin auger motor stopped. There was power to and through the motor (116 volts) but no motor turning. The motor/auger was not jammed and I could cause pellets to move/fall by pushing the shaft bolts. Running a temporary wire from the bin auger motor to the frame (ground) appeared to resolve the issue. I removed the circuit board, checked the pin-out diagram, but found no reason for the lack of neutral (loose pins, broken solder connections, etc.) So I assume I have a bad wire.
However, even on the new/temporary neutral, occasionally the bin auger will not go. I have the control set to display the flue temperature. It would not go until the flue temp was below 100 degrees. During the time of not feeding the main auger is spinning, the combustion blower is running, and the ignitor is not running.
The L-160 Thermal switch is not tripped. There is 49 volts at one side of the switch but not the other. I did not test the L-250 switch. It is currently running at mid-fire and flue temp is 206 degrees.
I have cleaned the stove per the manual's instructions. It was pretty clean. The glass gets smoky pretty quick and it leaked some ash. I tightened the door a tad.
The instruction manual does not get into much technical diagnosis. Does the bin auger need a certain flue temp or stove temp before the bin auger will start? Is this a board issue?
One more thing, the outdoor air kit is 4". The inlet to the stove is only 3". Is that the way it's supposed to be?
If any more information is needed I'd be happy to provide.
Edit: I watched the next startup. No bin auger operation until flue temp was 98 degrees. This is a consistent temperature across 2 separate startups.
The flue is 4" DuraVent Pro. It comes out via a tee, the bottom of the tee ends in a cap. The tee is rotated 45 degrees, then a 45 degree bend, then straight pipe up another 13 feet. It is all DuraVent run up inside of a factory built chimney internal to the house. The chimney is 8" triple wall insulated stainless. Both the top and bottom of the 8" are capped and sealed. The 8" has a proper stainless steel bird-proof cap.
It is wired as first stage via a Lennox ComfortSense 7000 thermostat (hard wired, with isolation relay). Second stage is an LP furnace. Stage 1 is 72 degrees, 1.5 degree swing, 6 degree deadband. The stove control is set to shut down on the heat call being satisfied.
This unit was banged around during shipping. It had a gouge behind the shipping material on the left door panel and the front handle has some paint missing.
On initial startup it ran fine on manual. I ran it hot to cure the paint. Then the thermostat took over. Within 1 day the bin auger motor stopped. There was power to and through the motor (116 volts) but no motor turning. The motor/auger was not jammed and I could cause pellets to move/fall by pushing the shaft bolts. Running a temporary wire from the bin auger motor to the frame (ground) appeared to resolve the issue. I removed the circuit board, checked the pin-out diagram, but found no reason for the lack of neutral (loose pins, broken solder connections, etc.) So I assume I have a bad wire.
However, even on the new/temporary neutral, occasionally the bin auger will not go. I have the control set to display the flue temperature. It would not go until the flue temp was below 100 degrees. During the time of not feeding the main auger is spinning, the combustion blower is running, and the ignitor is not running.
The L-160 Thermal switch is not tripped. There is 49 volts at one side of the switch but not the other. I did not test the L-250 switch. It is currently running at mid-fire and flue temp is 206 degrees.
I have cleaned the stove per the manual's instructions. It was pretty clean. The glass gets smoky pretty quick and it leaked some ash. I tightened the door a tad.
The instruction manual does not get into much technical diagnosis. Does the bin auger need a certain flue temp or stove temp before the bin auger will start? Is this a board issue?
One more thing, the outdoor air kit is 4". The inlet to the stove is only 3". Is that the way it's supposed to be?
If any more information is needed I'd be happy to provide.
Edit: I watched the next startup. No bin auger operation until flue temp was 98 degrees. This is a consistent temperature across 2 separate startups.
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