The manual for the HC does specifically say not to use a manual damper and it does allow for a barometric damper, however, I have used my manual/key damper for the past 8 years without an issue. I really don't like the idea of a barometric damper for many reasons.Is a key (manual) damper allowed on these? Some wood furnace manuals specifically say no manual dampers. If you adjust the damper to -.06" when the furnace has the dampers closed down to minimum, your draft will drop when the dampers open up fully.
Also, any specific reason for running your draft at the upper end...to try and stay in the -.04 to -.06" range when the dampers open maybe?
Just think of a BD as an infinitely self adjusting key damper in which you don't have to sit around to babysit.I have used my manual/key damper for the past 8 years without an issue. I really don't like the idea of a barometric damper for many reasons.
I see them as another piece that can fail, stick open or closed, introduces cool air into the flue and contributes to negative pressure in a tight house because it's always sucking air.Just think of a BD as an infinitely self adjusting key damper in which you don't have to sit around to babysit.
I'd think the pros of a BD would outweight the cons...vs using a key damper.
I don't have any negative pressure issues in this house! I just didn't like sending heated air up the chimney, so that's why I installed a OAK on my BD. It seemed to have made a difference in how the house heats.I see them as another piece that can fail, stick open or closed, introduces cool air into the flue and contributes to negative pressure in a tight house because it's always sucking air.
I have used a baro in my last house where I also burned a wood furnace . That house was older and not as air tight. I already have issues with negative pressure so I didn't want to add something that contributes to that. Since then I got used to a key damper and installed an ERV to help with negative pressure and fresh air.
I also have the ability in an emergency to reduce air to my flue and I don't have a gaping hole with a plate flapping in the breeze. No squeeks, no metal on metal bouncing and keeping me up all night because the furnace is just below my bedroom . No back-puffs can escape from my key damper like they could from a baro, no stink either. It's not for everyone but it works for my setup.
I haven't been concerned about it, since it's delivering more heat, more evenly, and longer than either of our previous wood furnaces.IMO, that seems a bit high when on cruise.....?
Can you expound on what you mean by runaways ?Just wanted to throw an update in. Short story.....I like it. Much easier to use, no more fear of runaways in the middle of the night, push the button light it and you’re done. Consistent burn times of around 7 hours and plenty of hot coals after 10 hours to just load it and walk away. Hottest exterior temps measure on pipe and stove face have been 400(f). Only recommendation is be prepared with duct work for heat delivery it’s got heat to give and if it got no where to go where it sits will be hot
A combination of conditions like a full load of wood, a thermostat holding the inlet damper open for very long periods (house too much sqft for furnace), no barometric damper and a good windy / cold night would cause my Tundra to get into overfire range. On some very windy and cold nights, even with the inlet damper closed the flue temps would get a bit too high and I had to partially cover some of the air inlets. In my case a proper barometric damper would solve it.Can you expound on what you mean by runaways ?