Drolet HT2000 DIY Installation

[chuckmunch]

Hey guys, I'm a first time wood burner and I purchased a Drolet HT2000 stove to hook up to an existing chimney that the previous owner used for their stove. I the chimney inspected and swept and did some renovations that took about a year before I got to the point of ready to install.

I'm wondering how hard this is to install because I've read a couple posts where some have done it themselves, or should I use a pro service which has given quotes of $950 plus which includes the stove pipe. Looks like I can stand to save if doing it myself, and maybe after the season, get it inspected and swept. I'm a pretty good handyman and this looks simple enough, or, should I go with the pro?

The Job: Install Stove Pipe and Set Up Stove

There is some kind of cap fabricated that has a stainless reducer (7-6) with a cap on the end. The stove takes 6 and the chimney opening is 7, which would justify the reduction, but I don't think the current reducer was used with his stove.

My clearance to combustibles look good. The stove is sitting on my wood-look ceramic tile, underneath this in concrete. One pro told me to get a hearth pad, and I've looked at some, most of which are some type of ceramic tile. It seems a bit redundant to have to use this, but what do you guys think? Do I need one or not? Please explain beyond the protection of the finish on my tiles.

Was looking at stove pipe and HD and Lowes carry some, but looks like inferior products. Some local stores carry DuraVent and I was thinking of using this brand, any suggestions?

I have read a couple threads on over firing, and wonder if a damper on the stove pipe could help with an additional measure of control for this stove model?

Thank you for reading and your consideration. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have attached some pictures of my setup and install site.

 

[begreen]

The HT2000 only needs ember protection. If the current floor is ceramic, gouted tiles, that is sufficient. If it is vinyl tiles then it needs a basic hearth pad or ember protection. No Damper is needed for this stove unless the chimney is very tall. Yours looks to be about 20-21' tall, is that correct? if so, not damper should be needed.

 

[brenndatomu]

I don't see a reason to hire somebody to hook that up...looks like all you need to do is install the stove pipe, no?

 

[chuckmunch]

I don't see a reason to hire somebody to hook that up...looks like all you need to do is install the stove pipe, no?

Yup, install the stove pipe and set the stove up is all. I just want to make sure I do it right. It doesn't seem like it will be too difficult.

 

[chuckmunch]

The HT2000 only needs ember protection. If the current floor is ceramic, gouted tiles, that is sufficient. If it is vinyl tiles then it needs a basic hearth pad or ember protection. No Damper is needed for this stove unless the chimney is very tall. Yours looks to be about 20-21' tall, is that correct? if so, not damper should be needed.

Thanks for your reply. Pretty close on the chimney, Its about 18ft tall.I like the look without the hearth pad, so I think I'll pass on that.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yup, install the stove pipe and set the stove up is all. I just want to make sure I do it right. It doesn't seem like it will be too difficult.

Just make sure you install the pipe/fittings with the male ends toward the stove (or down) and put 3 screws in each joint once done...enjoy!

 

[Woody Stover]

Read the stove and Selkirk chimney installation instructions thoroughly, adhere to them, and you should have a good, safe install. I'm not familiar with the specifics of going through the wall but that may be covered in the chimney instructions.

 

[Ludlow]

I used the Durablack from Home Depot. It is really nice pipe. Perfectly round not like the snaptite pipe. Not all that expensive but you need to order it. Not carried in store.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraBlack-6-in-x-48-in-Single-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-6DBK-48/202269771?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D28I|28-20_FIREPLACE|NA|LIA|Fixed|71700000041073832|58700004389677735|92700036981693832&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5pij6IKN3wIVjIjICh3zbwHkEAQYASABEgJQlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

We cut it using an angle grinder. It is pretty tough to cut otherwise. Depending on your install you may not need to anyway if using a slip.

 

[chuckmunch]

Thanks for your post and your help. Will that work with the Selkirk stove pipe? I was under the impression that it has to be the same manufacturer or it won't work?

I used the Durablack from Home Depot. It is really nice pipe. Perfectly round not like the snaptite pipe. Not all that expensive but you need to order it. Not carried in store.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraBlack-6-in-x-48-in-Single-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-6DBK-48/202269771?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D28I|28-20_FIREPLACE|NA|LIA|Fixed|71700000041073832|58700004389677735|92700036981693832&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5pij6IKN3wIVjIjICh3zbwHkEAQYASABEgJQlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

We cut it using an angle grinder. It is pretty tough to cut otherwise. Depending on your install you may not need to anyway if using a slip.

 

[chuckmunch]

Just make sure you install the pipe/fittings with the male ends toward the stove (or down) and put 3 screws in each joint once done...enjoy!

Thanks for your post! You make it sound easy as pie My main concern is connecting to the chimney and reducing to 6. Does the pipe going into the chimney need to go the entire 1ft into the thimble then come out and reduce to 6 or ?

 

[Ludlow]

You can use stove pipe from one manufacturer with class A from another. Is that what you are asking?

 

[chuckmunch]

Read the stove and Selkirk chimney installation instructions thoroughly, adhere to them, and you should have a good, safe install. I'm not familiar with the specifics of going through the wall but that may be covered in the chimney instructions.

Thank you for your help. I'm currently trying to hunt down a local supplier so I can go in and piece things together and ask some questions, but its seems I may have to order this brand, very few have it in stock near Wash DC.

 

[chuckmunch]

You can use stove pipe from one manufacturer with class A from another. Is that what you are asking?

A lot of folks are saying that Selkirk pipe only works with Selkirk, so I won't be able to use the brand sold at HD, Lowes or other brands?

 

[brenndatomu]

Thanks for your post! You make it sound easy as pie My main concern is connecting to the chimney and reducing to 6. Does the pipe going into the chimney need to go the entire 1ft into the thimble then come out and reduce to 6 or ?

You need this to connect to the chimney...then put a 6" to 7" increaser on that...6" pipe down to the stove then...
(broken link removed to https://www.woodlanddirect.com/7-Premium-Double-Wall-Black-Stove-Pipe-Adapter-to-Selkirk?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=9be32408866a14c7169378027676a867)

https://www.sandhillwholesale.com/plug-reducer-22ga-black-p-2185.html?
osCsid=c64fb877edbbce30152b7b09e2a6be02

 

[Ludlow]

A lot of folks are saying that Selkirk pipe only works with Selkirk, so I won't be able to use the brand sold at HD, Lowes or other brands?

A lot of people are wrong. You cant mix two brands of class A. The connector can be anything provided it isnt galvanized and is 24 gauge or heavier.

 

[chuckmunch]

A lot of people are wrong. You cant mix two brands of class A. The connector can be anything provided it isnt galvanized and is 24 gauge or heavier.

That sounds reasonable. I'll see what home depot has to offer. Any suggestions?

 

[chuckmunch]

You need this to connect to the chimney...then put a 6" to 7" increaser on that...6" pipe down to the stove then...
(broken link removed to https://www.woodlanddirect.com/7-Premium-Double-Wall-Black-Stove-Pipe-Adapter-to-Selkirk?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=9be32408866a14c7169378027676a867)

https://www.sandhillwholesale.com/plug-reducer-22ga-black-p-2185.html?
osCsid=c64fb877edbbce30152b7b09e2a6be02

The adapter you show is for double wall pipe, can this be used for single wall as well?

 

[Rickb]

I think the adapter is for the double walled class A chimney pipe you have to go to stove pipe. You should be able to use single walled stove pipe with it but I would recommend using double wall black stove pipe.

 

[brenndatomu]

The adapter you show is for double wall pipe, can this be used for single wall as well?

Hmm...good question...I would think so...but I'm not sure

 

[chuckmunch]

I think the adapter is for the double walled class A chimney pipe you have to go to stove pipe. You should be able to use single walled stove pipe with it but I would recommend using double wall black stove pipe.

Thanks for the post! Any reason why you choose double wall over single wall stove pipe?

 

[kennyp2339]

Single wall pipe sheds a lot of heat which can cause lower flue gas temps, lower flue gas temps can cause increase creosote build up in the chimney. Also single wall pipe needs to be install a minimum 18" from any combustibles, more than likely you have to assume that the rock board behind your stove was built with wooden 2x4's so that single wall pipe needs to be a minimum 18" from the studs / plywood sheathing, unless it can be proven that non combustible materials were used.
Double wall pipe has its advantages, it keeps the flue gasses warmer so the chimney stays warmer which can reduce creosote production, and increase draft, its needs a minimum of 6" horizontal clearance to any combustibles and 9" to any vertical combustibles.
Either or with both pipes, its advised to install (2) 45deg bends rather then (1) single 90deg elbow going into the class a pipe, the 45deg bends aid in keeping the smoke rolling rather then a 90deg bend creating an eddy (turbulence) which can cause a reduction of draft, this is more important since your running a slightly larger class a pipe then the manufacture suggests, also make sure your horizontal piece of pipe is pitched towards the stove and that the black pipe isn't put on backwards, double wall is usually market with the direction of flow (arrow) single wall is male end down, (sometimes people think smoke will leak out, it wont) this allows any liquid creosote to drip back towards the stove and stay in the pipe, not on your floor.

 

[Ludlow]

If you have a problem with too much heat output the double wall can theoretically help that as well. If you need lots of heat and have ample clearance the single wall is fine. Double wall cost is high.

 

[chuckmunch]

Single wall pipe sheds a lot of heat which can cause lower flue gas temps, lower flue gas temps can cause increase creosote build up in the chimney. Also single wall pipe needs to be install a minimum 18" from any combustibles, more than likely you have to assume that the rock board behind your stove was built with wooden 2x4's so that single wall pipe needs to be a minimum 18" from the studs / plywood sheathing, unless it can be proven that non combustible materials were used.
Double wall pipe has its advantages, it keeps the flue gasses warmer so the chimney stays warmer which can reduce creosote production, and increase draft, its needs a minimum of 6" horizontal clearance to any combustibles and 9" to any vertical combustibles.
Either or with both pipes, its advised to install (2) 45deg bends rather then (1) single 90deg elbow going into the class a pipe, the 45deg bends aid in keeping the smoke rolling rather then a 90deg bend creating an eddy (turbulence) which can cause a reduction of draft, this is more important since your running a slightly larger class a pipe then the manufacture suggests, also make sure your horizontal piece of pipe is pitched towards the stove and that the black pipe isn't put on backwards, double wall is usually market with the direction of flow (arrow) single wall is male end down, (sometimes people think smoke will leak out, it wont) this allows any liquid creosote to drip back towards the stove and stay in the pipe, not on your floor.

Thanks for the info! I used all non combustible material behind the stove all the way to the wall block which has no insulation in between the blocks, I think I'm good on clearance. I do like the idea of keeping better draft since my chimney is not enclosed in the structure.

If I use the two 45s, won't this pitch down toward the stove or would I still need to do this for the short span off the thimble?

Installing the double wall with the markings of the air flow, currently, I'm getting some backdrafting with lots of cold air coming down the chimney.. is that the direction or?

 

[chuckmunch]

If you have a problem with too much heat output the double wall can theoretically help that as well. If you need lots of heat and have ample clearance the single wall is fine. Double wall cost is high.

Thanks for your post, I think my stove may be a bit oversized and the single wall could end up overdoing it. Since I've elected not to pay the 1k price for the pro to do this with single wall, I think I can squeeze the budget for double wall. Do I still need a thermostat on the double wall pipe?

 

[begreen]

Thanks for your post, I think my stove may be a bit oversized and the single wall could end up overdoing it. Since I've elected not to pay the 1k price for the pro to do this with single wall, I think I can squeeze the budget for double wall. Do I still need a thermostat on the double wall pipe?

A probe thermometer on the double-wall pipe can be a very useful tool for proper stove operation.