Hello to all again. My question is, can I run my dutchwest 2462 in bypass mode constantly, damper open, and if I do are there any dangers I'm unaware of. I'm tired of waking throughout the night with this thing backpuffing like puff the magic dragon. Will this essentially turn it into a conventional wood stove but not as efficient. I have cleaned and inspected the combustor. I have read online that someone drilled holes near the bottom of their primary air controls and fixed this problem. Flue is going into a 15' clay tile chimney. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Dutchwest 2462 cat bypass question
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I should have included that this was a used stove I purchased this year. I cleaned it and replaced all the rope gaskets. Inspected the combustor with a flashlight. No clogs. Using seasoned wood but have run a few that were not so seasoned and it did not like it at all. Thanks again
Charles1981
Minister of Fire
It really isn't a great idea at all. The bypass doesn't really make it run like a conventional stove more like a fireplace. If you run it with the doors open it isn't as big a deal because large amounts of room air can enter and keep the fire box temps low. Eventually running the stove with the bypass open and the doors closed will probably lead to a dangerous overfire event.
The reason the stove burns well probably when you open the bypass is draft. I think your real problem is draft.
It sounds like you are not running running a stainless steel liner. This stove should be run off a 6 or 8 inch stainless steel liner that should be at least 16 feet or so in height. It would be important to know the size of the clay flue as well. Sounds like you are running the stove as a "slammer" (shoved in the chimney) or "direct connect" (with a bit of stove pipe headed up past the chimney damper but not all the way up.
If that is the case that is likely the reason for the back-puffing. Poor draft causes combustible gases to buildup and then explode and puff smoke into the room. Green wood and even marginally seasoned wood is going to only make the situation worse. Warmer days will as well. The stove probably doesn't back puff as bad on really cold days I will bet because the draft is stronger.
Let us know more about your setup. Especially the chimney.
The reason the stove burns well probably when you open the bypass is draft. I think your real problem is draft.
It sounds like you are not running running a stainless steel liner. This stove should be run off a 6 or 8 inch stainless steel liner that should be at least 16 feet or so in height. It would be important to know the size of the clay flue as well. Sounds like you are running the stove as a "slammer" (shoved in the chimney) or "direct connect" (with a bit of stove pipe headed up past the chimney damper but not all the way up.
If that is the case that is likely the reason for the back-puffing. Poor draft causes combustible gases to buildup and then explode and puff smoke into the room. Green wood and even marginally seasoned wood is going to only make the situation worse. Warmer days will as well. The stove probably doesn't back puff as bad on really cold days I will bet because the draft is stronger.
Let us know more about your setup. Especially the chimney.
These stoves view are kinda know for this unfortunately. Draft does play an important role. How high is the thimble above the stove? What is the size of the flue tile?
On the left side of the stove, dead centered in the stove a few inches down from the top is a rotary air control. Make sure it is open a few turns, this allows secondary air into the catalyst. If it gets closed puffing can occur. If all this checks out ok, it might just need a new catalyst. Even though you're is intact, it's plating can be degraded to the point it's no longer firing at low burn.
Have you pulled the top off and cleaned inside the combustor housing?
On the left side of the stove, dead centered in the stove a few inches down from the top is a rotary air control. Make sure it is open a few turns, this allows secondary air into the catalyst. If it gets closed puffing can occur. If all this checks out ok, it might just need a new catalyst. Even though you're is intact, it's plating can be degraded to the point it's no longer firing at low burn.
Have you pulled the top off and cleaned inside the combustor housing?
Thanks for your responses. Charles, you are right as to it being a direct connect. The chimney flue is 7×11. It is rear venting into an existing fireplace. Webby, the secondary air is out 1 and 3/4ths turns. Looks like I'll be buying a liner. Thanks again.
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