I'm new to pellet stoves. I've removed the glass gasket to create a window wash and now the glass stays perpetually clean but it did seem to change the drafting. I'm looking for suggestions (starting points) for the c2 and c3 settings when running at 7500 feet elevation. It seems reasonable to lower the feed rates significantly from factory settings. Also c4 and c5 draft settings, too.
Effects of elevation on fuel rate settings on King 5500M
- Thread starter Smreed48
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Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Modifying the stove, just changed the amount of air going through the burn pot. You will have to adjust the feed, damper. And combustion blower settings to achieve a good burn. Just remember air travels the path of least resistance. It will come in through the window area instead of the burn pot
Thanks for replying. I was afraid I was getting to far out there on the modifications. Here are more details. I removed all but 1" on each side of the bottom of glass gasket for the air wash. The fire became more wavy. I assumed it was because less air was coming through the pot. I reduced c2 to 1.00 #/hr and c3 to 2.65 (based on utube). I started to play with the draft. I probably went the wrong way on c4 (125). I raised c4 to 425. I run it between HR1 and HR3 (1 looses temperature, 2 holds, and 3 increases). But at HR1 lots of clinkers form in pot and smolder in shutdown and sometimes cause smoke in room when stove clears pellets from auger at end of shutdown (I believe smoke coming out air wash as running OAK). Any suggestions?
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
put the gasket back in and clean the glass more frequently. the glass is going to get dirty anyway. most stoves are not designed to have large cfm exhaust fans due to cost and noise.
Helluva lot cheaper investing in a natural bristle paintbrush and cleaning the view glass off daily. You can get a dozen at Harbor Freight for 10 bucks.
My take is you are altering the designed in combustion air path and that is no good and no matter what you do, you will have issues. If it was mine, I'd replace the gasket, buy a dozen natural bristle chip brushes at HF and call it good.
That 'air wash' is nothing but a selling point and no unit that I know of has ever had good results. I call it a Weiner wash myself.
Again, my opinion is, no amount of fiddling will get you what you want because you are altering the basic design.
My take is you are altering the designed in combustion air path and that is no good and no matter what you do, you will have issues. If it was mine, I'd replace the gasket, buy a dozen natural bristle chip brushes at HF and call it good.
That 'air wash' is nothing but a selling point and no unit that I know of has ever had good results. I call it a Weiner wash myself.
Again, my opinion is, no amount of fiddling will get you what you want because you are altering the basic design.
EXACTLY....... Buy a dozen brushes and be happy. Nice thing about natural bristle chip brushes is, don't matter if the glass is hot or not or of the stove is running. Open the door, brush the glass and close it back up.
Just don't use a poly bristle brush or the brush will melt to the hot glass and then you'll have a huge mess.
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