Englander 28-4000 owner advice

Furnace man71 Posted By Furnace man71, Mar 7, 2019 at 8:46 PM

  1. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    Hi new here but a member of arborist site for a few years now. They wouldn't let me use the same screen name.

    I installed my englander 28-4000 last weekend and am still trying to figure it out. The members of arborist site have been a great help as usual but I'm getting mostly nc30 stove help. I had a daka for 6 years and this winter had had enough so I got the englander from l&m. It's a lot different than I'm used to and have been listening and learning but also breaking the rules of the stove world because it's a furnace.

    I'm looking for advice on burning like burn times and most efficent way to use this thing. I have noticed that above 500 degrees it heats good. Also how are you all circulating the heat. I'm an hvac installer and went all out on the daka but have simplified with this one.
     
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  2. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    Welcome to the hearth! You’ll notice that many of us spend time at the arborist and the third wood forum that also has a furnace section.

    Your englander isn’t really a wood furnace like most. It’s actually a regular stove with a blower shell around it. No automated intake control, no thermostat.

    On most wood furnaces, when the thermostat calls for heat the furnace opens the intake fully and it stays there until the stat is satisfied. At that point the intake damper closes to the lowest clean burn setting all at once. Just two settings.

    To mimic that with your englander you need to open the intake and run the stove as hot as is safe until you’re warm and then close the intake a bit to cruise.

    A stove in your living room is run differently. Way more time at the lowest clean setting.

    I recall that your problem is that you are cold and unhappy with the output but then you also don’t want to run the stove hot enough to make heat.
     
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  3. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    Seems like you are following me from forum to forum lol they wouldn't let me use Mustang71 for a screen name.
     
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  4. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    I am starting to have a good handle on the heat and how to run it. I'm more curious about other people with the same furnace and what their set up is and how it works for them.
     
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  5. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    I don't think I have seen more than a few people with this model so far...really doesn't matter though...this is just a NC30 with a larger air jacket and blower on it...operation will be exactly the same as the 30. There are plenty of expert NC30 operators out there...
     
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  6. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    I agree, that's how I have gotten this far in a week. I believe this furnace has been out for a couple years and I read all good things about it and the 28-3500 as well as the nc30 but the difference would be the same difference between a boiler with radiators and a forced air furnace. They could all be the same btu but the heat out put and feel can be completely different.
     
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  7. jsab9191

    jsab9191
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    Dec 7, 2015
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    The thing I find most difficult with the NC 30 configured as a furnace 28-4000 is the ash removal system is useless, and it is kind of difficult to clean out without letting the fire go completely out. The grate on the 28-3500 allows for easy clean out and ash removal.
    Looks like Englander just took the easy route when redesigning there furnace to meet EPA standards. If the new 28-4000 had a reasonable clean out for ashes, I think it would be a great no frills furnace.
     
  8. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    I agree the ash try is useless but for me I only burn when I'm home so I start a fire every night after work. There's still some coals but I usually shovel it out or leave it.
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Honestly the "ash pan" on most of the modern stoves is a joke...easier to just dig it out. Except the ones that have a sealed ash pan drawer...that makes more sense to use...
     
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  10. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    It seems like if I dont take the ash out I dont accumulate a ton more. The daka would fill the ash pan and I'd empty it every day. Shoveling out the firebox really doesn't bother me that much. It's nice that there is a good lip before the opening for the door. I have seen some stoves that the door opening starts at the top of the fire brick and I'd think that would be a pain with ash and coals.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    I have noticed the same...left to build up in the firebox a little, they seem to break down further, and more dense.
    Just make sure you don't plug or block off the "boost" air hole(s) (some call it "doghouse" air)...front and center, above the firebrick, below the door opening.
     
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  12. Furnace man71

    Furnace man71
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    Mar 7, 2019
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    I always try to keep that area clear. Seems that if I can get the "tunnel of love" going then I can get all 4 secondary tubes to light off and get a way better burn.
     
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