Englander 30-NC Install Progress
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Got her in! Didn't take any pics of the install. It was much more labor intensive than I thought but it's in and ready to go!
Also, the hearth is a bit short but we are in the basement on a concrete slab just got to trim the carpet at the front to gain the right clearance.
Next week is supposed to be in the 40's at night so I'll post back when we fire her up!
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Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Are you able to reach back there to turn the fan on and off or will you just unplug it each time?
2fireplacesinSC
Burning Hunk
Looks really nice! While this is still open, I'd be inclined to install a separate outlet/switch for the fan.
cookin2night
Member
Can you take a side picture to see how far it sticks out of the fireplace?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Thanks! That's a great idea. At some point I think I'll add some sort of switch. Since the stove is freestanding I won't be adding any sort of surround. It's nice because the opening is large enough for me to get in and oil the motor and I have enough space to do some additional wiring at some point.
cookin2night
Member
Just my honest opinion. If you want it to warm more of the house up I would figure a way to have that stick out more. Nice job though and happy burning!
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the feedback. I added a block off plate at the damper. Hopefully that will keep the majority of heat in!
2fireplacesinSC
Burning Hunk
are you good on your clearance above the stove to anything wood? I'm seeing parts that make me think you have a mantle just above the stove.
MDFisherman
Burning Hunk
Nice! That's a good looking fire and install.
Did my first real burn last night but went really small. Got my Condar Inferno stove top thermometer today. They are actually headquartered in Columbus, NC which is about 30 minutes from me... which I thought was pretty cool.
So I'm going to go bigger tonight with the fire and do an overnight burn and see how this baby does heating the house.
First overnight burn was a success! Still had massive coals this morning and stove was sitting at about 200 degrees.
It did get cranking last night up to about 700 degrees and I couldn't back the fire down anymore so I went and cut a piece of 22 ga sheet metal to slide in front of the dog house and within a few minutes it was down to 500.
I have a TON of draft right now. Going to try keeping the dog house covered and maybe even threading a bolt.
23' chimney with this beast turns it into a flame thrower
EDIT: Also burning very seasoned poplar now which feels like throwing lighter fluid on. Ready to get threw this wood and get onto the oak I've got.
It did get cranking last night up to about 700 degrees and I couldn't back the fire down anymore so I went and cut a piece of 22 ga sheet metal to slide in front of the dog house and within a few minutes it was down to 500.
I have a TON of draft right now. Going to try keeping the dog house covered and maybe even threading a bolt.
23' chimney with this beast turns it into a flame thrower
EDIT: Also burning very seasoned poplar now which feels like throwing lighter fluid on. Ready to get threw this wood and get onto the oak I've got.
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Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
Not following this. 700 is about right ,why do you want the stove to operate cooler? Save wood? longer burn? I always try to stay in the 600 to 700 range for good afterburn performance.
I'm definitely new at this but from what I've heard on this forum @BrotherBart and a few others is that 500-600 is ideal and 700 is the max this stove should be run.
But again, rookie here and looking to learn.
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Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
My son routinely runs his Nc-30 stove at 900 for several years now with no ill effects. I would not do that and im NOT advocating ANYONE else to do that but im quite sure you are safe at 700 . Blocking the air ways and altering the design of the stove is something i would only do if englander themselves told me to do. As long as the air control is all the way closed and you dont have air leaks around the door gasket i would not get worried about 700. Its seems to be draft dependent ,i have 2 Nc 30s and the one on the taller chimney burns hotter. If you have an excess draft situation a flue damper may be a better solution.
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Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I purposely run my NC30 to cruise at 700-750, every time, on purpose. My setup offers control though at this temperature and I can shut the draft more to slow it down if needed. There are times when a key damper installed in the flue is required to prevent overdraft from causing overfire.
Place that inferno meter in the center of the little step up on the stove top. It's the hottest spot. It's okay if the air tubes inside glow but no other part of the stove may glow.
I have a really hard time maintaining a clean burn and clean glass at temperatures as low as 500-600. The stove wants to run!
Ok. Good advice.
I called Englander today and they told me to place some aluminum tape over 1/3 of the intake at the back of the stove to gain more control. So I will try that.
Wish I could add a damper for chimney. It's not really possible with my flex liner and appliance adapter and limited access.
I'm totally fine running it hotter, it was concerning to have the stove at 700 last night, shut the stove all the way down and see flames blazing still.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
So first, you need to be sure of what ESW told you. There is the big round hole in the back that is the primary air intake. Right above that hole is a rectangular cutout that is the air supply for the tubes that make up the secondary combustion system. I think they wanted you to block that swqaure one off by 1/3 but do you know? Finally, for the sake of completeness, under the stove in the front two corners are 1/2" holes that both feed the doghouse air inlet. Blocking any and all of those holes is fair game if you feel like the stove is running away on you.
When you inadvertently get it hotter than you would like and you quickly close down the intake rod, the other air inlets will increase air flow into the firebox to relieve the vacuum and cleanly combust the offgassing fuel. It might look like shutting the air control made it worse for a little while but just wait for things to settle. Maybe a few minutes before temps start to react to shutting the air on a ripping non-cat.
I've actually melted the air wash plate on mine by leaving the throttle at 100% for too long when starting a fresh fire. No big deal. I now start the stove at 100% throttle but then back down to 75% or so as soon as possible, then let it warm up to 600 or so before sliding the rod in farther to my cruise setting that tops out in the 700 range. Some folks like you with very strong draft might be closing things down even sooner to maintain control. That is easier than trying to recover and wastes less fuel too!
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Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
ID find out which intake they were talking about before you do anything. I think there is a difference in which one you restrict. But 700 is a good clean burn , once you start getting in the 500 or below you may risk no afterburn and smoke up the flue. Smoke needs 1100 Deg internal stove temps in order to burn.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
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