I discovered that the air baffles above the fiber boards have warped and broken welds. The 1st one near the front has warped in the middle like a banana. The 2nd one in the middle has broken a weld on one side, causing it to be touching the fiber board. Has anyone experienced this and fixed it or is it time to retire the stove? I've been running this stove for from new since 2010, 16 seasons, approximately 6 cords per season. Is this a normal lifespan for the nc30 or is this a result of running it too hot?
Englander 30NC air baffles
- Thread starter BAF
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Thanks, I kind of figured! Its a little odd, the warped and half detached pieces don't seem to effect the function that I can discern, or is there something happening I'm not recognizing?
I found one on Facebook for $300. Ill check that one for sag in the front air deflector. Anything else you recommend checking on it?
Also found a Drolet HT2000 for $500. Looks like they are equivalent stoves?
I found one on Facebook for $300. Ill check that one for sag in the front air deflector. Anything else you recommend checking on it?
Also found a Drolet HT2000 for $500. Looks like they are equivalent stoves?
Doing a bunch of reading here and that's what I'm seeing. I'm waiting to get picks back from the seller of the nc30 to confirm their stove is not sagging in the front or broken weld on the middle air baffle plate. I took out my fiber boards to get a good look at mine and sure it can be repaired, but I'm not the one for the job!
The only things that are known to melt are the front airwash deflector and the single metal curtain thing that deflects exhaust from shooting right up the flue. Both of these parts have become melted on my nc30. I pushed up the flue deflector with a bottle jack and welded it back in place, just one of the 3 welds popped. The airwash plate I grabbed with a big wrench and bent it back pretty close but not perfect. All good and neither of these issues are enough for replacement. Not safety issues.
I also have had to straighten all 4 tubes once. They didn’t deteriorate but just deformed. My baffle boards are original but are hunched up like bananas and only rest on the front and rear tubes.
Oh and I have a crack that formed recently from the to left corner of the door opening but it’s well inside the gasket so it’s my friend now.
Very few stoves are lifetime stoves when used long and hard. Even my expensive blaze king has had a failure that requires welding if I choose to fix it.
I also have had to straighten all 4 tubes once. They didn’t deteriorate but just deformed. My baffle boards are original but are hunched up like bananas and only rest on the front and rear tubes.
Oh and I have a crack that formed recently from the to left corner of the door opening but it’s well inside the gasket so it’s my friend now.
Very few stoves are lifetime stoves when used long and hard. Even my expensive blaze king has had a failure that requires welding if I choose to fix it.
![[Hearth.com] Englander 30NC air baffles](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/347/347678-d0d8b44f75e96e4679a973a5e11fe8e8.jpg?hash=vn_YH7skZR "[Hearth.com] Englander 30NC air baffles")
I did notice they seemed to look different from each other. I was thinking they didnt need to come out. Maybe just #2? Im assuming the bolt will be a battle!
The little screws that hold the tubes in place are just little self tapper tek screws. Shallow coarse threads with shallow thread engagement so seem to be pretty easy to get out. Use a socket or box end wrench and rock it. You'll need to get the front tube out to put the unbroken baffle boards back in. Getting at least the first two tubes out out makes the tack weld easier. It's an overhead weld but with excellent access for grinder and the actual weld. Not everybody is great at overhead welds but it doesn't need to be pretty just enough to stick it to the roof.
Grab a bottle jack and use it to press parts back into place. Put a block of wood on the floor to spread out the base load of the jack. Your stove looks pretty decent otherwise. On mine, and others I've seen, the leading edge of the airwash sagged. Not the back.
Got it! My dad should have no problem with the welding. Did you remove the fire brick or will the wood block sufficiently protect them? I've previously been able to remove the baffle boards without removing any tubes. Stack them on top of each other, rotate 90deg, lift the back and they will drop down between tubes 1 and 2. But if they are arched like a banana thats not going to work.
Thank you so much for the info! The advice here is what got me into the nc30 and all the brilliant info about venting.
Thank you so much for the info! The advice here is what got me into the nc30 and all the brilliant info about venting.
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