Englander 32-NC: Earthbound home stability?

[s57nomad]

Evening all from Southern Missouri!

My wife and I love our 1200 sqft home and want to add reliable emergency heat with wood. We have plenty of oak, live oak, walnut, and maple here. Moisture content unknown but a meter is on the way. The gas fireplace is gone now. The new one will go in the corner to the right of it in the photo at about a 45 degree angle.


We'd like to know if the 32-NC is suitable for the home. Home as follows: 1200 sqft, earthbound on 2 sides (west/south), east facing has approximately 70 percent glass windows and doors with covered porch, and north is exposed concrete wall/foundation (6"thick), well insulated and not drafty, ceilings vaulted at 18' height, the home is divided lengthwise 60/40, 40 is the 2 beds and baths, the rest is open living/kitchen/dining.

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 

[moresnow]

Forget the stove. Show us more pics of this beauty house

What is the composition of your flooring? Curious, looks very nice.

Sketch and post the entire home layout including proposed stove location.

Sounds well insulated.

Define your location. Midwest is too vague for advising stove size/type etc.

Welcome to Hearth

 

[s57nomad]

Ha, those were staged pictures before we moved in.

Currently replacing the flooring in the house with vinyl plank and will build a 4'x5' hearth in the corner to the right of the gas fireplace thingy.

Napkin sketch coming.

Near Branson, Missouri.

Thanks for the welcome. (Been lurking here for a little while now.😁)

 

[s57nomad]

House is 30' wide x 40' long. The "X" marks the spot. As far as the chimney exit, we'd like to go out above the poured concrete wall just to the east/left in photo of the roof peak. Not a fan of holes in the roof, but open to suggestions. Ceilings are vaulted and 12' interior height near that location, but 16' at the highest point in the ceiling. If we place the stove close to the dividing wall in the house the chimney would exit the ridge....

 

[s57nomad]

Stove has been ordered. Any help on the chimney would be wonderful.

 

[s57nomad]

Delivery for tomorrow. We're super excited!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Internal chimneys straight up from the stove are preferred.

 

[s57nomad]

First burn tonight to set paint. 2 more tomorrow.

 

[s57nomad]

We'll go with the straight up chimney as it's better. We're considering DuraVent chimney components. Anything in particular we should select (steel roof)? Thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

We'll go with the straight up chimney as it's better. We're considering DuraVent chimney components. Anything in particular we should select (steel roof)? Thanks in advance.

Use DuraTech, not DuraPlus and use a metal roof flashing like the one from Excel instead of a rubber boot.

 

[s57nomad]

Use DuraTech, not DuraPlus and use a metal roof flashing like the one from Excel instead of a rubber boot.

Thank you and will do. Definitely want flashing. Any reasoning behind the Tech vs Plus?

 

[begreen]

DuraTech has a better construction and better insulation. It is double-walled instead of triple-walled so a smaller hole in the roof too.



This is not the nicest installation but it will give an idea.

 

[s57nomad]

DuraTech has a better construction and better insulation. It is double-walled instead of triple-walled so a smaller hole in the roof too.

View attachment 318518

This is not the nicest installation but it will give an idea.

View attachment 318519

This is really great information. Thank you. So, what does a proper installation of the flashing look like?

 

[begreen]

I don't have a good picture yet. This is better, but the storm collar has not been put on yet and it's at the ridge vent.

This is the installation direction pictures.

 

[s57nomad]

Ah, I see now. I will order accordingly and great thanks for this info. A picture really is worth a thousand words. Thank you all!

 

[begreen]

Definitely download the installation instructions for the complete steps. Note that all too often people goober up every edge with silicone. That is not necessary. The main place to apply it is on the side flanges. The bottom edge can remain uncaulked for drainage of any condensation that might form.

 

[s57nomad]

Definitely download the installation instructions for the complete steps. Note that all too often people goober up every edge with silicone. That is not necessary. The main place to apply it is on the side flanges. The bottom edge can remain uncaulked for drainage of any condensation that might form.

I will do just that. Another question. Is Selkirk chimney and stove pipe acceptable? Looks like most of the DuraVent distributors around us do not stock full sets of components. Menards stocks everything need in the Selkirk line.

 

[begreen]

Yes, Selkirk Supervent is ok for a value line chimney.

 

[s57nomad]

Yes, Selkirk Supervent is ok for a value line chimney.

Thanks begreen, much appreciated. If I can locate DuraVent then we'll go that route.

 

[Highbeam]

I like metal roofs, but sealing that flashing scares me.

 

[begreen]

I like metal roofs, but sealing that flashing scares me.

It shouldn't. When done correctly it will be sealed and work well.

 

[Highbeam]

It shouldn't. When done correctly it will be sealed and work well.

Maybe, or maybe it will start to leak slowly maybe a year later and rot your whole roof out before you notice. Depending on sealants is risky. You can hear the metal pop and creak when it expands in the heat.

I really dislike roof leaks. Probably more than would be healthy!

 

[begreen]

We all dislike roof leaks. There's no such thing as a good one. Like any work, there is a right way to do this. Done properly, there is no more risk of leakage than with flashing on a composition roof. A sign of a poor install is one that is goobered up with sealant.

 

[s57nomad]

We all dislike roof leaks. There's no such thing as a good one. Like any work, there is a right way to do this. Done properly, there is no more risk of leakage than with flashing on a composition roof. A sign of a poor install is one that is goobered up with sealant.

I will go above and beyond to ensure it is sealed properly. I have been an industrial mechanic for a couple decades and a carpenter as well. The finite work is more my speed. I just can't justify the cost of a 36" outside and inside micrometer set for the doorway work, Ha!

 

[weee123]

Maybe, or maybe it will start to leak slowly maybe a year later and rot your whole roof out before you notice. Depending on sealants is risky. You can hear the metal pop and creak when it expands in the heat.

I really dislike roof leaks. Probably more than would be healthy!

Like Begreen said, it’s no more risky than an asphalt shingled, or rubber roof. I’m a sheetmetal worker by trade and if you cut the flashing to fit the roof ribs as in the picture properly (not all hacked up) and use a good sealant (I’m partial to Solar Seal for this application) it shouldn’t ever leak.