Englander 32NC - over fire at 650?

[wagdog]

Greetings all, long time wood burner, first post here.

I recently installed a new Englander 32 NC stove. This stove replaced an old King wood/coal stove that I bought used and burned straight for 25+ years. Needless to say, I’m experiencing a learning curve.

I have a flue probe thermometer installed 18” above the stove in a 2’ stovepipe that goes to a 90 and then about 18” out to a stainless lined chimney. Draft has never been issue. I also have a magnetic thermometer attached on the stovetop, above the right side of the door and about 3” back.

I ran 3 small burns per the manual before running hotter fires. Yes, it stunk, we’re past that now.

The manual states that stovetop temps would be 600 degrees for a high temp burn and 650 would be considered over firing and could result in damage.

I’m finding with a good load of wood (mixed cherry, maple, and birch, all seasoned), I’m getting up to 800 on the flue temp and the ST temp slowly heats up. I slowly shut down the air intake and maintain what appears to be a nice secondary burn; the air inlet tubes get a little red and I have a nice rolling fire and secondary burn around the tubes. I can shut the intake all the way down and the fire stays burning nicely.

My ST temps are upwards of 550, sometimes closer to 600. The flue shows between 500-600.

Does this seem like reasonable operating temps? I’ve read quite a few posts here where people are talking about operating their 30nc (earlier version of this stove) at much higher temps. Maybe they’re referring to the flue temp?

I realize this new stove is going to require some experience and education on my part so I appreciate any input.

 

[Highbeam]

First, you need to move your stove top temperature meter to the hottest part of the stove which is in the middle, right on the step up. You can choose whether to respect that very low 650 limit imposed by the manufacturer.

Then, your probe meter “normal” temperature range is 400 to 900. Redline is 1000.

If you can’t stay within the limits you choose, even with the intake fully closed, your next step is to add a flue key damper. They allow you to control an over drafting/over firing stove.

 

[wagdog]

First, you need to move your stove top temperature meter to the hottest part of the stove which is in the middle, right on the step up. You can choose whether to respect that very low 650 limit imposed by the manufacturer.

Then, your probe meter “normal” temperature range is 400 to 900. Redline is 1000.

If you can’t stay within the limits you choose, even with the intake fully closed, your next step is to add a flue key damper. They allow you to control an over drafting/over firing stove.

Thanks for the reply.

The probe meter legend shows 400-900 as normal, which lines up with what you’re saying.

Just to be sure I’m clear; by step up, are you referring to the angled portion of the top of the stove? (see pic).

I’ll hold off on the damper if I can. I have one stored away somewhere around here if it comes to that.

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks for the reply.

The probe meter legend shows 400-900 as normal, which lines up with what you’re saying.

Just to be sure I’m clear; by step up, are you referring to the angled portion of the top of the stove? (see pic).

I’ll hold off on the damper if I can. I have one stored away somewhere around here if it comes to that.
View attachment 274382

Yes, that is the famous hot spot on the nc30 which we must assume is the same on the 32. My paint there got a touch white!

 

[NickW]

There's guy's on here who run their NC30 to 750 every time. I personally prefer to stay at 650-700 tops, but have occasionally visited near 800. Never had an issue other than the included racing heart...

 

[wagdog]

There's guy's on here who run their NC30 to 750 every time. I personally prefer to stay at 650-700 tops, but have occasionally visited near 800. Never had an issue other than the included racing heart...

Good to know.

I need the heat tonight...

 

[Highbeam]

I definitely have run up around 750 on purpose, it burns really well there and seems happy. Doing that it burns through a load of fuel every three hours. I have since done some experiments and added a key damper and find that a long 5 hour burn at 600 uses much less fuel but only slightly slower to heat the space.

In other words, the stove is much less efficient at those high temperatures. Probably not a surprise to most folks.

 

[NickW]

Cruising at 620 with 1F outside. Below zero overnight tomorrow thru Tuesday night. Highs in the single digits. I hear you about needing the heat. I hate my electric baseboard heaters kicking in.

 

[wagdog]

Cruising at 620 with 1F outside. Below zero overnight tomorrow thru Tuesday night. Highs in the single digits. I hear you about needing the heat. I hate my electric baseboard heaters kicking in.

Yeah, 6:30 AM and my oil furnace just kicked on, I’m going downstairs to stoke up the stove.

It’s -24 here right now.

Last night I had the stove meter up just over 600. I don’t really trust that magnetic thermometer though. I’ve got an IR meter on order.

 

[kennyp2339]

@wagdog can you post some pics of the new stove? not many on here since the new 2020's came out, just want to look at the whole stove, the door, rear part of the stove and maybe the inside guts. (I know the major switch was a double baffle board setup on the new units)
I helped a friend put in a madison a few weeks ago, he loves the new stove, to me Englander solved the door issue from the 17vl series, but the air control seems chinsey at best, only 1" of movement and the "start up boost air" doesnt really work that well, but they def make up with the construction of that stove.

 

[wagdog]

@wagdog can you post some pics of the new stove? not many on here since the new 2020's came out, just want to look at the whole stove, the door, rear part of the stove and maybe the inside guts. (I know the major switch was a double baffle board setup on the new units)
I helped a friend put in a madison a few weeks ago, he loves the new stove, to me Englander solved the door issue from the 17vl series, but the air control seems chinsey at best, only 1" of movement and the "start up boost air" doesnt really work that well, but they def make up with the construction of that stove.

A few pics... no makin’ fun of my hearth.

It’s a little too hot for inside pics right now.

 

[NickW]

Looks exactly like my 30 but no blower? Doesn't look like there's even a spot for one?

 

[kennyp2339]

@wagdog thanks

 

[wagdog]

Looks exactly like my 30 but no blower? Doesn't look like there's even a spot for one?

No blower, no spot for one.

 

[Highbeam]

They added an additional secondary air tube. The removable door handle is silly.

 

[moresnow]

They added an additional secondary air tube. The removable door handle is silly.

No blower or leg option is 2 strikes in my eyes. Odd update for a well respected stove.

 

[wagdog]

They added an additional secondary air tube. The removable door handle is silly.

I do find the door handle to be awkward. Does the handle on the 30 get that hot?

 

[NickW]

I do find the door handle to be awkward. Does the handle on the 30 get that hot?

As long as you grab the spring end it's fine. Not removable on the 30...

 

[kennyp2339]

As long as you grab the spring end it's fine. Not removable on the 30...

We're talking about the 30's replacement due to the 2020 epa regs

 

[wagdog]

As long as you grab the spring end it's fine. Not removable on the 30...View attachment 274444

I like that.

Tryin’ to come up with of a way to attach the handle on mine now.

 

[Highbeam]

You know there must be some story about why they would do something as dumb as removing the door handle. Like maybe somebody fell on it and poked their eye out. Or maybe they’re easier to ship.

 

[wagdog]

Anyone have thoughts on attaching the handle? I was thinking drilling and tapping the handle and using a set screw.

 

[ckr74]

Can you give us a close up shot of the handle?

 

[wagdog]

Can you give us a close up shot of the handle?

Indeed...

 

[NickW]

I have a welder... ; but yes, drill, tap, set screw.

And yes, the threads about the 32... we've been inquiring and commenting about what the differences to the 30 are...