Englander nc30

[Tylerlaughman]

So im trying to decide on a new wood stove. I like the englander 30nc and also englander 30nch is there a difference? Also i read great reviews except one video saying inside of box is hot butdoesn't radiate out. He even touches the sides in video with fire glowing hot inside. Any insight would be greatly appreciated thanks

 

[Grisu]

Welcome to the forum!

The 30NCH is made for Home Depot and has a slightly different trim. Check which one you like better and purchase accordingly.

I would not touch the sides of a 30NC with a roaring fire inside unless you are eager to visit the ER. Any link to that video? It is true that there is less radiant heat that goes through the glass. The reason is to keep the firebox hot for a complete combustion. The stove itself gets hot although the optional side heat shields may be a bit deceiving.

Lots of happy 30NC owners here; very likely the best price to performance ratio on the market. Do a forum search and check the review section to see for yourself. However, it absolutely needs dry wood with an internal moisture content of less than 20%. How long has your wood been sitting split and stacked in your yard?

Please also note that the 30NC needs a hearth with a r-value of 1.5. Do you already have a suitable location?

 

[begreen]

The back portion of the side walls of the 30NC are shielded. That reduces radiant heat in that area which also reduces the stove clearances which for most folks is a plus. But if you are comparing it to an old straight steel box with no shielding then yes, that area will be cooler. It is intentional.

Another common operator error is trying to burn unseasoned wood in the stove. It will put out less heat. This is operator error, not the stove.

 

[Hogwildz]

To get the full reduction to clearances, the side shields must also be added. They are an optional separate purchase.

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Thanks guys for the info . Woods been split in barn since last winter. I have a vogalzang smaller 4500btu now just not keeping up. Location should work fine accourding to englander specs. I wonder why some units may be 30000 btu differnce but say heat the same amount of area. Here is link too that video.

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Also i burn oak mostly . I have aprox 1000 square foot farm house. Its a little drafty . Im currently putting new windows in and insulation. Pretty open floor plan . Wood stove sits on large concrete pad in middle of house with 6" double wall pipe to ceiling than triple wall ,it runs straight up. I was also considering drolet ht2000 or us stoves 2400 others have higher btu drolet is 95000 btu i think and us stove is 115000btu but all say 22 to 2400 square foot heating area. All reviews except the above look good for englander (75000btu) so thats one i was leaning towards.

 

[Z33]

Thanks guys for the info . Woods been split in barn since last winter. I have a vogalzang smaller 4500btu now just not keeping up. Location should work fine accourding to englander specs. I wonder why some units may be 30000 btu differnce but say heat the same amount of area. Here is link too that video.

I have a hard time taking that guy seriously when he is trying to dry his wood on the stove top before burning it.


I have this stove and regularly boil water on it for cooking. Also cooked bread and many many 2 gallon pots of chili. I currently use it to heat 2200 sqft of moderately insulated house and it has no problem keeping it miserably hot down into the single digits over night.

 

[Grisu]

Thanks guys for the info . Woods been split in barn since last winter. I have a vogalzang smaller 4500btu now just not keeping up. Location should work fine accourding to englander specs. I wonder why some units may be 30000 btu differnce but say heat the same amount of area. Here is link too that video.

The infamous "I try to burn water in my stove and it does not give me any heat" video. That wood is soaking wet, probably just split before bringing it in. That's how the burn will look like when using dry wood:

Notice the flames in the top of the firebox. That "secondary burn" makes those stoves so efficient and clean burning.

The advertised BTU is the max amount of heat you can get during a short period of time when adjusting the air for a for a full furnace-like burn. You will rarely if ever run the stove that way and therefore the number does not have a lot of meaning for an ordinary woodburner. Sqft ratings are mostly made up in the sales department and equally useless. The spec that matters is firebox size: The more wood you can load, the more heat you will get.

Wood needs sun and especially wind to dry below 20% internal moisture, plus oak is notoriously slow to dry. I have the feeling your wood is not as dry as it needs to be because the Defender should be able to heat 1000 sqft in your area. Do you have a moisture meter? Split a few oak pieces in half, press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. It should read below 20% to work well in your stove. After the fire is established can you start closing the air intake of your stove without snuffing out the fire? Do you have a stovetop thermometer to monitor how hot the stove gets? I would try to figure out first why the Defender is not working for you or you may be equally unhappy about the 30NC.

 

[blades]

30nc, Summersheat( Lowe's, I believe) and Timber ridge( I thinks right timber xxx anyway) all the same stove. Optional trims kits. Units currently come with small fan- large one is optional
20% moisture is absolutely the max in the 30, 12-15% will blow your doors off.
And a quote from a neighbor " I never see any smoke from the flue" was the response when I told him that it is burning 24/7 all winter. Course that isn't 100% true as at a restart or adding new load there will be some until up to temp.

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Lol grizu fire did look pretty smokey and i also noticed the log on top. Thanks every one will definitly be more comfadent buy. Stove i have now is vogalzang model bx26e. It got red hot all winter think house was just way to drafty lots of old window and insulation in some walls had slid down. Thats why i fixed most of that. I just went thru a lot of wood last year about a chord a week. I have 44acres of woods to pock from buy wood cutting isnt neccicarily my favorit past time. Hoping bigger more effecient stove will cut that down a bit.and i will have to get mostior gauge and perhaps relocate the wood .heres pic of most house couple more small rooms of course and pic of current set up.also what do u guys think about heat reclaimers .

 

[begreen]

The 30NC will be a huge improvement in both heating efficiency (less wood burned) and safety over the box stove. Heat reclaimers are not a good fit for modern stoves, nor is unseasoned wood.

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Thanks begreen . Last year i had to set alarm for every 3 hours to refill the box and im a medic and work 24 hour shifts so i was dragging all winter lol. The Increased burn times will be amazing.

 

[begreen]

Those VG box stoves are prone to failure due to cheap castings. They are hard to control the air supply which leads to frequent overfiring, further stressing the castings and causing high wood consumption.

How is the wood supply? The 30NC is going to want wood that has seasoned after being split and stacked for at least a year, preferably 2 yrs if it is oak or hickory.

 

[Grisu]

Ok, that's not a VZ Defender but one of their cheap non-EPA units. You were wasting a ton of heat up the flue. Plus, it probably pulled in a lot of cold air from the outside to make up for the lost air. With dry wood and a modern stove expect to maybe burn ~4 cords a winter.

The hearth: What is underneath? Concrete does not have the best of r-values. If there is wood underneath the 30NC may not work without further protection. What are the dimensions of the hearth? The shape of the 30NC is very different as is the location of the flue outlet. You may need to extend the hearth at least one side. I would also look in the new Englander Madison stove. It has a 2.4 cu ft firebox which should be plenty for your space and only needs ember protection in the hearth. Here is a thread with lots of info: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/madison-in-my-burn-trailer.128150/ It is probably still a special order item. Print out the manual, go to your nearest Englander dealer and ask them if they can get the stove for you. Price should be close to the 30NC.

 

[saskwoodburner]

Thanks guys for the info . Woods been split in barn since last winter. I have a vogalzang smaller 4500btu now just not keeping up. Location should work fine accourding to englander specs. I wonder why some units may be 30000 btu differnce but say heat the same amount of area. Here is link too that video.

I recall watching this video before. In short, the guy is an idiot with an opinion, who doesn't know how to run an epa type stove to save his life. Even with his unseasoned wood, he never does touch the side of the stove he's just being a drama queen. I think that guy is qualified to run an outdoor fire pit and not much else lol

You'll find all the good advice you could ever need right in this forum.

 

[kennyp2339]

Tyler - is that 8" black pipe?

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Ok thank you. The concreat pad is 6'by 3.5' with some kind of special coating on top it was there when i move in with large old coal burner and had 8" pipe we ran a 6" pipe and kept the 8" around it . Would supply is year old in barn. Going to build storage outside with rood and three sides to let get sun as someone earlier suggested, all oak and hickory but ive not cut any fown just use trees that have been down from storms so were not green by any means when i split . Wish i was up on wood for two years but hopefully since heating small area with large stove it will work. All the advice is great!

 

[Tylerlaughman]

Concrete pad is also about 4 inches in depth . Old stove wood get red hot but the concrete wouldnt just. A little warm . Think its cooled a lot from air under the house. The hearth i guess came with old stove. I guess i better find one for the new stove . Cant just sit on the concrete pad even with the pedestal or legs?

 

[kennyp2339]

Tyler, I don't think you will have any regrets going with the Englander, its a very well made stove. My only concern is that it might be a little to big for your house, (but only you can be the judge of that) Your other stove choices seem okay with the exception of the us stove (Chinese junk - I have one sitting in my garage)
The NC30 needs to breath so make sure that you have a minimum chimney height of 15ft, and remember if the NC30 is to much for your house you can always Craigs list it, there a quality product and will keep there value as long as you make sure not to over fire it and take care of it by not scratching it and gently loading it.
Like everyone else says you need dry wood for these new re-burn stoves, wet wood will not cut it.
Good luck -

 

[johnpma]

abou
Concrete pad is also about 4 inches in depth . Old stove wood get red hot but the concrete wouldnt just. A little warm . Think its cooled a lot from air under the house. The hearth i guess came with old stove. I guess i better find one for the new stove . Cant just sit on the concrete pad even with the pedestal or legs?
t

Not as pretty as the hearths some have built but functional....R value of 1.5

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/imperial-type-2-stove-board-36-in-w-x-52-in-h-slate

 

[Tylerlaughman]

So concrete goes all the way to ground like 4feet depth not 4 inches lol. But may put down some marble on top for asthetic value. Anyways ordered the nc 30 today cant wait till it comes in and till i get to fire it up lol.thanks agian everyone

 

[BIGChrisNH]

Hi Tyler I realize I'm late to the party here but that video you found is not representative of the performance of the stove. That guy is trying to burn wet wood. I have an Englander NC30 and believe me it produces plenty of heat. My humble opinion, but you can't do better for the price. If you're burning dry wood in it you'll produce tons of heat. I love mine, it's fantastic. Not sure of differences on NC30 vs. NC30NCH

 

[blades]

We just call the NC30 or 30 Don't really need all the rest of the # . Some the extra # has to do with who the re-seller is. Home depot or Lowe's ect. As I mentioned earlier 3 different names same unit- little trim differences.
Drolet good stoves, Us stove Yech- my personal opinion. Drolet Canadian mfg, Englander US mfg., both have excellent customer service.
My experience with US Stove less than adequate ( actually more like the little house out back with the quarter moon in the door)

 

[sportbikerider78]

I love my 30. Heats my high ceiling 2000 sqft house in cold NY.

 

[blades]

I like your brick work . Makes for a nice thermal absorbtion / release passive system.