Ok, so I decided to take the plunge and upgrade my metal firebox fireplace to a Drolet Savannah wood burning stove. I've built the hearth and will be hanging fire resistant drywall (Type X) above and around the hearth. My problem/question is this; I only have 9-10 inches clearance behind the stove pipe to the rear wall, and would like to know if the drywall is considered a combustible structure. Everything I find about installing single wall pipe indicates that 18" min clearance is required to combustibles, is 10" ok for fire resistant drywall and single wall pipe clearance? I could always install double wall stove pipe, but it's significantly more expensive and if I can get away w/ single why then why not. Thanks for any info/pointers on this.
Fire Resistant Drywall & Pipe Clearance
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Single-wall connector HAS to be 18" from combustibles...
The paper on ANY drywall is combustible.
Bite the bullet & get double wall connector...
The paper on ANY drywall is combustible.
Bite the bullet & get double wall connector...
The paper on the drywall as well as the paint are combustible. Need to go to double wall to be in clearance compliance.
Put the double wall in and sleep better.
Your clearance is out by almost 50% would you jump out of a plane with only 1/2 oh a parachute?????
Just my thoughts
John
Put the double wall in and sleep better.
Your clearance is out by almost 50% would you jump out of a plane with only 1/2 oh a parachute?????
Just my thoughts
John
i recently installed my stove
i originally intended on using an existing basement window as my chimney hole
but then i would of had on 14" to ceiling clearance
i paid $180 to have a 12" hole cored through the foundation
so that i could get 7" lower than the window would of allowed
after several memory episodes & seeing the vent pipe glowing, i wouldn't recommend cutting any corners
(especially by 44%)
i originally intended on using an existing basement window as my chimney hole
but then i would of had on 14" to ceiling clearance
i paid $180 to have a 12" hole cored through the foundation
so that i could get 7" lower than the window would of allowed
after several memory episodes & seeing the vent pipe glowing, i wouldn't recommend cutting any corners
(especially by 44%)
vpetersen said:
As mentioned . . . drywall (all dry wall) is considered combustible due to the paper backing and paint . . . fire resistant is not the same as fire proof (ie. not combustible).
Unfortunately for you, 10 inches is about 8 inches too short for what you have . . . if you can keep the clearances by installing double wall pipe and keep yourself and your family safe . . . the extra money will be worth the expense. Remember, you're not upgrading to a new TV in the house . . . you're upgrading to something that is designed to generate a lot of heat . . . heat that you want to keep in control.
I also say double wall. I have 10" to my sheetrock and double wall is on my stove.
Here's another angle. It's not the sheetrock, the wood studs that hold the sheetrock are also combustible so even if you replaced that type X with cement board, you would still be too close to the wooden studs.
Double wall is better anyway, it is made of stainless steel and won't need to be replaced for many many years after that single wall would have died.
Here's another angle. It's not the sheetrock, the wood studs that hold the sheetrock are also combustible so even if you replaced that type X with cement board, you would still be too close to the wooden studs.
Double wall is better anyway, it is made of stainless steel and won't need to be replaced for many many years after that single wall would have died.
Fire rated drywall just takes longer to burn than normal drywall, it still burns... so... if you just want it to take a little longer for the house to start on fire, then go for it.
I agree with Pagey, you should go with a double wall. It would work and look better.
Regards,
Leena
(broken link removed)
Regards,
Leena
(broken link removed)
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