Hi all, I have this strange problem with my 10yrs old fireplace. It started last winter when it just wouldn't start after working fine during the fall. I turn on the switch and it'll click and you can see the spark but no fire. I thought it was dead but last summer the kids hit the switch by mistake and it worked again. So we started using the fireplace again in the fall and everything worked fine. My wife can leave it on all night no problem. Just this past Christmas it got much colder and the fireplace acted up again. Turning it on only produces the clicking sound but no fire. Does anyone have any idea where I should look for problem? thank you.
fireplace only works during summer/fall
- Thread starter catbui99
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
If it is 10 years old I would guess it has a standing pilot. Have you ever lite it your self? Can you see if it is lite? If it does not have a standing pilot I would be curious to how its vented? Can you see the cap on the side of the home? Or is it vented up a chase? If it is vented up a chase and does not have a standing pilot it could just be a case of a cold flue.
This is an uneducated guess, but it sounds like your unit has electronic ignition.....most fireplaces don't try to click themselves!
If this is the case, it could be this - if gas pressure is a bit low, and other appliances in the house (furnace, etc.) are using more gas in the winter...that would lower the pressure available to your unit. If it does not have enough pressure, the electronic ignition might not work through the cycles.
A fireplace of that age and has not had regular service - it is definitely time. These things get dirty inside - and the gas pipes can get water and sludge in them, etc.
If this is the case, it could be this - if gas pressure is a bit low, and other appliances in the house (furnace, etc.) are using more gas in the winter...that would lower the pressure available to your unit. If it does not have enough pressure, the electronic ignition might not work through the cycles.
A fireplace of that age and has not had regular service - it is definitely time. These things get dirty inside - and the gas pipes can get water and sludge in them, etc.
hi, thank you and sorry I wasn't clear. The clicking is the electronic igniter and that seems to work. I can see the sparks when I switch it on. I do vacuum and such and I am pretty sure it's not the drop in gas pressure. We try not to have the whole house heated when we're just in one room. It's just really strange. What is a cold flue? I searched and kept getting cold flu. thanks again
oh, and it's a heatilator gnbc36e
oh, and it's a heatilator gnbc36e
Electronic ignition is a whole ball of wax that i am not too familiar with since our store never sold them....we sold standing pilot units only.
Cold air often comes down a flue when the flue is not in use - and it is certainly possible that is happening and perhaps blowing the gas....before it lights....away from the ignitor. Or, it might let a smaller (pilot) flame light, but then not let that flame light the actual burner, which of course would tell the control to shut the fireplace down.....it does not want raw gas flowing.
These controls usually have a logic diagram which is written as a flowchart.....and if you or someone you know is handy, you can at least troubleshoot what might be wrong......there are various sequences in the startup, and if any of them are not made, the thing shuts down.
If you google this
flowchart for fireplace electronic gas ignition module
and download the PDF from the link which says HEARTH PRODUCTS CONTROLS, you will get a good idea of the troubleshooting you might want to do...that describes most of the possible problems.
Cold air often comes down a flue when the flue is not in use - and it is certainly possible that is happening and perhaps blowing the gas....before it lights....away from the ignitor. Or, it might let a smaller (pilot) flame light, but then not let that flame light the actual burner, which of course would tell the control to shut the fireplace down.....it does not want raw gas flowing.
These controls usually have a logic diagram which is written as a flowchart.....and if you or someone you know is handy, you can at least troubleshoot what might be wrong......there are various sequences in the startup, and if any of them are not made, the thing shuts down.
If you google this
flowchart for fireplace electronic gas ignition module
and download the PDF from the link which says HEARTH PRODUCTS CONTROLS, you will get a good idea of the troubleshooting you might want to do...that describes most of the possible problems.
ok, a little more digging and I found that I have a Robertshaw DS845 direct ignition controller. When I flip the switch, it clicks, stopped, then a red LED flashes. There is a sticker on the side that said if the light flashes, see manual. Unfortunately I can't find the manual anywhere. Does anyone have an idea? I don't want to replace the controller without makin sure that's the problem. Thank you
Those old DSI units are costly to repair.
If they still make the module for it, it may be in the $500 range...
Dave Gault (Wood Heat Stoves) on this forum, can probably tell you the cost...
Might be time to upgrade to a newer, more efficient unit...
If they still make the module for it, it may be in the $500 range...
Dave Gault (Wood Heat Stoves) on this forum, can probably tell you the cost...
Might be time to upgrade to a newer, more efficient unit...
thank you all for the suggestions. I think I fixed it. I opened it up and removed all the logs and turned it on and saw that the sparks are not at the tip of the electrodes but it was arcing between one of the electrode and the metal frame. I twisted the electrodes back so the tips are closer to each other so it'll arc right at the tips. Put everything back and all is working again.
- Status