First step up from splitting maul?

[PolrBear]

I'm contemplating getting some kind of wood splitter that will be easier to use than a splitting maul (I'm pretty terrible at swinging a maul), but less expensive/complex than a full-blown self-powered wood splitter. Electric? Hydraulic? I don't want to invest a ton but I don't want to buy something junky and useless either.

Thoughts?

 

[Turbo89]

I had a cheap harbor freight electric splitter for years, that worked well. I put it on my pickup truck bed and split for hours with it.

In comparison to my gas splitter it’s slow as can be, but it will save your wallet if you don’t want to splurge on a gas one.

 

[Vale straven]

5–7 ton electric splitter can be a solid upgrade.

 

[qwee]

How many cords per year are you going through, and what kinds of wood are you splitting - hard woods, soft woods?

 

[John Mc]

@PolrBear - a few questions for you:

How much wood and what diameter logs are you likely to be splitting?

What species are you mainly splitting? (If you are hand splitting, I'm sure you've already noticed there is a huge difference in ease of splitting from one species to another.)

Do you have a preference for gas or electric powered splitters? (Gas is more portable if you want to split out away from your home/shop/garage. Electric quieter and require very little maintenance. Electric splitters designed to run on 120V AC are generally limited in power, though may be enough if your splitting needs are moderate)

Do you have a budget in mind?

Have you considered the used market? If you live in an area where heating with wood is common, there are usually some decent deals to be found on Craig's List or Facebook Marketplace.

 

[qwee]

I'm in Idaho. I looked on FB marketplace in Missouri to see if any splitters looked good. I saw a Supersplit kinetic for $500. Seasoned wood splitters know this is a crazy good deal if it works good. If it was in my area, I would be checking it out. It won't last long. (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1025124439812258/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:00757dc2-efbc-4e11-b1a2-7ab9361faf3b.

PolrBear. there are basically 2 splitter platforms to choose from - 1) hydraulic, or 2) kinetic. Once a person uses a good kinetic splitter (like SuperSplit) it is hard to go back to a hydraulic splitter (slower). But I would stay away from other brands of kinetic splitters. Hydraulic splitters are slower but there is less to go wrong. Electric motors can be used on both hydro and kinetic splitters.

Further. hydro splitters can be configured in many ways and sizes. The horizontal that goes vertical is the dominant design. But there are dual action types, (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4156122831273989/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:00757dc2-efbc-4e11-b1a2-7ab9361faf3b and now vertical types, too. That Brave dual action is a good splitter. Hydro splitters are sized by tonnage, like 10 ton or 22 ton. Even small tonnage splitters can get the job done (usually).

 

[John Mc]

Another thought:

I'm not trying to talk you out of a splitter - they are certainly a worthwhile, labor saving investment. Years ago, I split most of my wood using a maul. I've since switched to using a hydraulic splitter. I still do try to split a cord (or at least a half cord) by hand, just to maintain the skill and get a bit of core and upper body workout.

I had always found the maul a bit of a pain to use and was considering giving it up. I did bit of research: I read that there are few people with the strength and coordination to accelerate a maul to decent splitting speeds while still maintaining accuracy. It seems the harder you swing, the less accurate you are. It's one thing to maintain that effort for a few pieces, it's quite another when you are splitting significant volumes. Someone doing it on a regular basis would eventually develop the strength and coordination (at lest until age caught up with them), but my own hand splitting was on a much more sporadic basis.

The splitting force is directly proportional to the mass (i.e. weight) of the splitting tool. However, the force is proportional to the square of the velocity with which you strike. I switched to a splitting axe. While lighter than my old maul, I can easily swing it much faster, and am not straining so hard that my accuracy suffers. I can also keep up the activity for much longer.

It is important to select a quality axe designed for splitting (a chopping axe does not work efficiently at splitting). After trying a few axes owned by friends, I decided I liked the Fiskars X25 the best. I eventually also bought a Fiskars X27 - same axe head, but a longer handle. The longer handle takes a bit more coordination, but it definitely makes for a faster head speed, allowing me to split tougher logs. Unlike my old maul, I actually enjoy using either of these tools.

I will admit I also like having my hydraulic splitter around. I'll split a half cord or cord of the easier splitting stuff by hand, them split everything else on the hydraulic splitter. I would never be without a hydraulic splitter. Splitting 3 cords per year for my own use, plus a bunch more for our local WoodBank (firewood donation program for area families in need) is much more thna I would want to do by hand.

 

[John Mc]

I'm in Idaho. I looked on FB marketplace in Missouri to see if any splitters looked good. I saw a Supersplit kinetic for $500. Seasoned wood splitters know this is a crazy good deal if it works good. If it was in my area, I would be checking it out. It won't last long. (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1025124439812258/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:00757dc2-efbc-4e11-b1a2-7ab9361faf3b.

PolrBear. there are basically 2 splitter platforms to choose from - 1) hydraulic, or 2) kinetic. Once a person uses a good kinetic splitter (like SuperSplit) it is hard to go back to a hydraulic splitter (slower). But I would stay away from other brands of kinetic splitters. Hydraulic splitters are slower but there is less to go wrong. Electric motors can be used on both hydro and kinetic splitters.

Having used one belonging to a friend, if there were a SuperSplit in running condition for sale in my area for $500, I'd be jumping in my truck right now to drive down and buy it before someone beat me to it. They are seriously well built, fast, effective splitters. The only complaint I've ever heard about them is that you do need to keep the beam clear of debris, but that is simple to do.

The only reason I don't already own one is that the speed is a concern: when I was shopping for splitters, my kids were still young. I was concerned that if they were helping they might lose a finger or worse. Since my splitter is also used by a variety of volunteers with our local WoodBank, the speed of a SuperSplit remains a concern even after my kids are grown. My hydraulic splitter also has a hydraulic log lift, which is a big help with the larger logs. Still, at $500, I would jump on the SuperSplit and just own two splitters. You rarely see these come up for sale.

I do agree to be wary of some of the other brands of kinetic splitters. When SuperSplit's patent ran out a few years ago, a bunch of copycats sprung up. Many were plagued by quality problems. If I remember correctly, a lot of the problems related to bad steel or poor heat treating in the rack and/or pinion gears (custom parts which are the heart of the system.) Tractor Supply Co was selling one for a while, but discontinued it after a rather short produciton run due to some ongoing quality problems. Dr Power also had significant quality products when they first came out with theirs. Their production run lasted a good bit longer. I stopped hearing so much about quality issues, so I assumed they had dealt with that. However, when I looked at their website a few minutes ago, I see they are no longer listed. In contrast, SuperSplit's splitters stand up to commercial production environments for years

 

[marty319]

I've had my 5 ton homelite for 15 years now splitting 4 cords of pine yearly.i turned the boost up on it so it works better.recently had these big trees cut down and its struggling with these big pieces.

 

[4x4prepper]

> I don't want to buy something junky and useless either

That pretty much describes most of the electric log splitters with the motor coupled directly with the pump. The only one I have used built that way, that was not junk is the Ryobi, but, since I bought it years ago, I do not know what the current quality is. The worse have been the TaskForce and the one sold by Northern Tools.

RYOBI 5-Ton 15 Amp Horizontal Electric Log Splitter RYAC490 - The Home Depot

Give your driveway or walkway an authentic old world accent by adding this RYOBI Electric Log Splitter.

www.homedepot.com

If you have the Ryobi 40v batteries then the kinetic might be nice.

 

[marty319]

> I don't want to buy something junky and useless either

That pretty much describes most of the electric log splitters with the motor coupled directly with the pump. The only one I have used built that way, that was not junk is the Ryobi, but, since I bought it years ago, I do not know what the current quality is. The worse have been the TaskForce and the one sold by Northern Tools.

RYOBI 5-Ton 15 Amp Horizontal Electric Log Splitter RYAC490 - The Home Depot

Give your driveway or walkway an authentic old world accent by adding this RYOBI Electric Log Splitter.

www.homedepot.com

If you have the Ryobi 40v batteries then the kinetic might be nice.

Thats exactly the same as my homelite

 

[4x4prepper]

Could be, many times the only difference is the color and a cheaper spec. What sets the Ryobi apart is it has almost a 1/4" thick metal push head held together by high grade bolts. From the picture, yours looks like that. As long as you change the fluid so it doe snot rust the internals, and remember to undo the vent it should last a long time. Mine lasted many cords and I taught my kids and the neighbor's kids how to use it and how to avoid ouchies from wood flying back.

 

[Turbo89]

That Ryobi looks just like the harbor freight 120V one I had.

 

[blades]

note that most electric splitters require both hands to operate. One to hold the motor power switch on and the other to hold the hydro valve on ( the small ones usually do not have a detent valve , they are a spring return). The larger ones are basicly the same as their gas counter parts- same unit just different power source. Most require a 20 amp110v line, a few are 220v. Ram splitter of Rockford IL makes a 1.5hp 16ton electric splitter $ 1680, it looks like the motor and pump are direct coupled. As such if the motor or pump fails it is a $ 500 replacement item. There are likely others out there this just one I know about.

 

[John Mc]

If you are going for one of the lighter duty electric splitters I recommend avoiding the ones where the ram is driven by a ball screw (a threaded shaft). I've heard lots of stories about the ball screw mechanisms bending or wearing prematurely. Hydraulic units tend to hold up better (but can also sometimes have issues if the manufacturer "cheaps out" on the construction).

 

[Turbo89]

note that most electric splitters require both hands to operate. One to hold the motor power switch on and the other to hold the hydro valve on ( the small ones usually do not have a detent valve , they are a spring return). The larger ones are basicly the same as their gas counter parts- same unit just different power source. Most require a 20 amp110v line, a few are 220v. Ram splitter of Rockford IL makes a 1.5hp 16ton electric splitter $ 1680, it looks like the motor and pump are direct coupled. As such if the motor or pump fails it is a $ 500 replacement item. There are likely others out there this just one I know about.

This is true; they must do it for liability issues. I’m told you can make a foot pedal with some zip ties and a piece of wood…

 

[4x4prepper]

> That Ryobi looks just like the harbor freight 120V one I had.

They all look the same, until you read the 1 star reviews and find out you can't judge the book by it's cover. Basically they all look like the Dirty Hands design, except the Ryobi has a better push head (1/4" steel) and thicker metal. Plus, the Ryobi actually worked on a 15 amp circuit without tripping the relay. All the cheaper designs I tried either lost their head 🙃 or the side rails bent when coming up against a good piece of sweet gum or red oak.

I found with many log splitters, especially the electric ones, 12" length is the sweet spot if you want to split larger diameter then the splitter is rated.

 

[John Mc]

note that most electric splitters require both hands to operate. One to hold the motor power switch on and the other to hold the hydro valve on ( the small ones usually do not have a detent valve , they are a spring return). The larger ones are basicly the same as their gas counter parts- same unit just different power source. Most require a 20 amp110v line, a few are 220v. Ram splitter of Rockford IL makes a 1.5hp 16ton electric splitter $ 1680, it looks like the motor and pump are direct coupled. As such if the motor or pump fails it is a $ 500 replacement item. There are likely others out there this just one I know about.

I used to own a Ramsplitter 16 ton horizontal/vertical electric splitter. It was identical to a 16 ton gas splitter that they also sold at the time. It was the largest electric splitter I could find that would run on an ordinary 120V AC outlet. (You do want to run it on a circuit with a 20 Amp breaker.) Control was identical to the gas splitter: a hydraulic valve with a detent for the return setting. The motor and pump were connected by a bolt-on pump mount bracket. A standard Lovejoy coupling was inside. The entire assembly (motor, bracket, pump, and coupling) sells for $500. Each component of that assembly can be replaced separately.

I did make one modification to the splitter: the base that holds the sliding wedge was held on by hex head bolts. Occasionally, the head of. bolt would catch on the edge of some of the larger logs, wasting some of the splitter's power as the bolt head gouged a groove in the side of the log. I removed those bolts, had the plate countersunk with a taper to match the underside of the head on a flat head socket cap screw. The heads sat flush with the plate: no more catching a bolt head on the log. (I have pictures, if anyone else is using this splitter and interested in the modification.)

After more than 8 years of use, I sold that splitter to a friend when I switched to a larger gas splitter with hydraulic log lift. That friend used it for 7 years and ended up giving it to my father-in-law when the motor finally failed. (Shaft locked up. Splitter was over 15 years old at the time.) Father-in-law replaced the motor for less than $200 and it's been running fine for the past year.

It was a decently made splitter for residential use. It would not stand up to commercial use, but was fine for my needs at the time, and suits my father-in-law perfectly. At age 76, he doesn't deal with the huge gnarly stuff anymore (he has a nephew with a strong back and a bigger splitter for that stuff).

 

[Turbo89]

> That Ryobi looks just like the harbor freight 120V one I had.

They all look the same, until you read the 1 star reviews and find out you can't judge the book by it's cover. Basically they all look like the Dirty Hands design, except the Ryobi has a better push head (1/4" steel) and thicker metal. Plus, the Ryobi actually worked on a 15 amp circuit without tripping the relay. All the cheaper designs I tried either lost their head 🙃 or the side rails bent when coming up against a good piece of sweet gum or red oak.

I found with many log splitters, especially the electric ones, 12" length is the sweet spot if you want to split larger diameter then the splitter is rated.

Yea, my HF one probably has 50+ cords through it, including some 40”+ oak rounds it took two people to hold. Maybe I got “lucky”, but that thing still works today.

 

[PolrBear]

Wow, a lot of good input here! Thanks to all for posting.

How many cords per year are you going through, and what kinds of wood are you splitting - hard woods, soft woods?

This will be our first complete heating season with this stove in this house, so I don't know for sure on consumption. If I had to guess, I think we'll use about three cords per season. As far as what I'm splitting, it will just depend on what I can scrounge up for free and close to my house. Silver maple is one that's very easy to get in my part of the world, due to the abundance of those very brittle trees. There are also lots of dead ash trees around, unfortunately, due to the emerald ash borer. And there's more than a bit of oak. I know enough to try and avoid elm and gum, and to use Osage orange only for kindling or supplementing a fire to make it hotter.

@PolrBear - a few questions for you:

How much wood and what diameter logs are you likely to be splitting?

What species are you mainly splitting? (If you are hand splitting, I'm sure you've already noticed there is a huge difference in ease of splitting from one species to another.)

Do you have a preference for gas or electric powered splitters? (Gas is more portable if you want to split out away from your home/shop/garage. Electric quieter and require very little maintenance. Electric splitters designed to run on 120V AC are generally limited in power, though may be enough if your splitting needs are moderate)

Do you have a budget in mind?

Have you considered the used market? If you live in an area where heating with wood is common, there are usually some decent deals to be found on Craig's List or Facebook Marketplace.

I don't plan to split anything too large, probably no more than 12" diameter in most cases. I'm working alone and not inclined to try and move around whole tree trunks by myself. At maybe 3 cords a season, my needs would be fairly light duty. From what you guys are saying, I think a 120V electric splitter would be a sensible choice for me. My budget, however, is very limited - at least for this season. Any thoughts on manual hydraulic? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1452631955886183/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:243aff35-3f49-4f3e-8c10-04fd4665f9ac

I'm in Idaho. I looked on FB marketplace in Missouri to see if any splitters looked good. I saw a Supersplit kinetic for $500. Seasoned wood splitters know this is a crazy good deal if it works good. If it was in my area, I would be checking it out. It won't last long. (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1025124439812258/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:00757dc2-efbc-4e11-b1a2-7ab9361faf3b.

PolrBear. there are basically 2 splitter platforms to choose from - 1) hydraulic, or 2) kinetic. Once a person uses a good kinetic splitter (like SuperSplit) it is hard to go back to a hydraulic splitter (slower). But I would stay away from other brands of kinetic splitters. Hydraulic splitters are slower but there is less to go wrong. Electric motors can be used on both hydro and kinetic splitters.

Further. hydro splitters can be configured in many ways and sizes. The horizontal that goes vertical is the dominant design. But there are dual action types, (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4156122831273989/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:00757dc2-efbc-4e11-b1a2-7ab9361faf3b and now vertical types, too. That Brave dual action is a good splitter. Hydro splitters are sized by tonnage, like 10 ton or 22 ton. Even small tonnage splitters can get the job done (usually).

Looks like that listing got snapped up all right, but it was about 8 hours away from my location anyway. I dislike small engines because they tend to stop working while in storage for the off-season, then when the season comes you have to fiddle with them before you can get anything done. For that reason I enjoy my 20V DeWalt chainsaw, but obviously it can't accomplish nearly what my Stihl gas saw can do.

 

[4x4prepper]

> I think a 120V electric splitter would be a sensible choice for me

With maple and kept to 12-14" length, yes, a 120V splitter will be a good choice.

Yes, they are slow, generally about a 21 second cycle time unloaded, though it still is faster then wielding an axe or sledge hammer for 2 hours straight. I never knew what sweet gum was until I moved to Georgia and found it was nothing like white birch from NH . I was splitting sweetgum for a woman/friend of the wife, I gave up and noodled it with my POULAN Wildthing chainsaw :-D , and bought an electric splitter soon after. I split some sweet gum with the Ryobi no problem.

 

[Slimdusty]

Any thoughts on manual hydraulic? https

I would not buy a manual hydraulic splitter. Painfully slow and laborious, and awkward unless you craft some sort of a stand to raise it up.

 

[blades]

Don't waste any money on those row boat hydro splitters, other than the cardiovascular work out they are a total pain. Years ago boss bought one, used once for him never again. ( he didn't like it either). I got a HF splitter 25 years ago, used and abused it. Rebuilt it about 10 years back . still running all the same hydro pump, cylinder, motor, and love-joy coupler. On my third valve though. The other two got discontinued and I could not find parts to rebuild them. ( chi-com sourced). As far as gas engines are concerned sitting idle for several months, just run the Ethanol free gas( if you can get it in your area) That's all I run in small engines, no problems to report or maybe I am just a bit lucky. I run about 5-6 cords though the splitter every year.

 

[PolrBear]

So I saw this cheap thing come up on Marketplace. Think it's worth $75 to play? Seller says it's from her ex and she doesn't know the condition, but I can test.

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[John Mc]

So I saw this cheap thing come up on Marketplace. Think it's worth $75 to play? Seller says it's from her ex and she doesn't know the condition, but I can test.

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It light duty and slow (20 second cycle time for their current production models). However, for just $75, maybe you are willing to live with that?

A friend had something similar that he kept around for resplitting and making kindling. In the winter, it stayed in his house near his wood stove. He said it worked OK for that use, but he would not want to split up his whole 4 - 5 cords per year on it. He picked it up at a garage sale just for that use. He has a larger splitter for his main log splitting work

I don't see where you mentioned how much wood you split in a typical year and what species you typically use. If you are doing multiple cords, and like to work up a fair amount in one session, the low speed might drive you batty after a while. If you are splitting smaller diameters or easy to split species it might work out for you. Larger or tough to split logs it may not be practical. Definitely bring along a couple of your typical logs to split and try it out with before you buy.

I have very limited experience with this size/style of splitter. Others on here might have more relevant input.