First time install - A few questions..

[bholler]

Also, after a bit of research, if I alter the factory insulation shield, it very well may not pass inspection (as it is no longer a "factory" piece)... If I end up having to cut down this shield and use it, I'll call the inspector first.

It is still a factory piece we cut them all the time and have never had an issue but if it worries you call the inspector.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I'll be cutting the shield. After sleeping on it, I don't really feel like screwing with it so I'm going to buzz it off and stick it in place and be done with it.

So my last question before I get out there today... The manual says nothing about how to secure the chimney adapter to the pipe. The chimney sections use clamps to secure them. It didn't come with any screws or anything and the manual says:

"The Stove Pipe Adaptor (ASE) is installed by twist-locking it into
the bottom end (female end) of the first Chimney Section that enters
the Ceiling Support. Do not install an elbow in the Ceiling Support.
Make sure that the male coupler of the insulated Chimney Length is
pointing upwards as indicated by the arrow on the chimney label.
Lower the assembly down into the Decorator Ceiling Support
ensuring that the Stovepipe Adaptor sleeve is protruding through
the support and into the living space."

I should have everything buttoned up early this afternoon and I'll hopefully get to lay tile on the pad.

Thanks for the help/input guys!
-Chris

 

[bholler]

So my last question before I get out there today... The manual says nothing about how to secure the chimney adapter to the pipe. The chimney sections use clamps to secure them. It didn't come with any screws or anything and the manual says:

I dont use that type of pipe so i have no idea someone else might have input for you but from the instructions it sounds like it is a twist lock system so just twist it in

 

[Hogwildz]

Yes I was under that impression as the question was asked.. "Will an 8" chimney be ok on a stove with a 6" flue" and the reply was " You shouldn't have any problems." They didn't say anything about chimney length, etc..etc.. Not sure if this is a good sign or not but it already is drafting out of the house.. when I installed the rain cap, the drywall dust and bits from us cutting the holes was blowing up through the center of the chimney. For my wallet's sake, I hope your fears are wrong. Then again, worst case scenario, I reuse the entire chimney system in my shop which is where this stove will eventually be retired to.. and get a 6" kit with a ceiling support large enough to fill the larger hole... that or drywall work. I suppose I wont be throwing any money away in the long run...



This is a direct quote from the manual...

'A Rafter Radiation Shield (RRS) must be installed where the chimney is
enclosed immediately below the roof line as shown in
figure 18. An example of this is when the attic space of a house is being
used as living space (ie. bedroom, guestroom etc.). It must also be
installed when height restrictions will not allow the use of the Attic
Insulation Shield (AIS) and the chimney has been enclosed with an
enclosure around the chimney."

Input?

Also, after a bit of research, if I alter the factory insulation shield, it very well may not pass inspection (as it is no longer a "factory" piece)... If I end up having to cut down this shield and use it, I'll call the inspector first.

As long as you box around the pipe, with a 2" minimal clearance, anything you use will be fine.
Whatever you use, whether wood box, or metal shield, will have to be cut to meet the angle of the roof decking. Unless they state is is okay for the top edge of the shield to be non-parallel with the roof decking.
You do not want to run any insulation up against the bottom of the roof deck, unless you have a conditioned attic space which would be insulated at the bottom of the roof deck, rather than between the ceiling joists below.
So as long as you get whatever you decide to use fairly near the underside of the roof deck, you should be fine. I think you're fine with your original plan, as long as you as you have the room to do it up there.
Bottom line, install something, that meets 2" clearance, and keeps the insulation away from the piping. That is really all the inspector will care about, if he even checks it at all.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Today was a good day...

I pulled the stack back out and installed the chimney adapter as its supposed to be. I also climbed up in the attic and was able to work the uncut insulation shield into place. The hole through the roof was just big enough where the area I would have had to trim was able to protrude a bit.

I decided to keep my 3' section of pipe instead of taking it back for a 2' section. I got the 3' sections on sale and the 2' section would actually cost more. Figured an extra foot of chimney length certainly couldn't hurt since its pretty short to begin with. I then installed the roof guy bracket setup.. I ran the bars a bit high on the roof.. will probably relocate them when we re-roof the place in a year or two.. but should be fine for now.

I also managed to get the hearth pad covered and tiled today. First covered it with scrap pieces of 18ga. galvanized where the stove will be sitting, then 2 layers of 1/2" nextgen Durock. Waiting a few days till I can get grout down.. turned out decent since its my first tile job as well.

Anyways.. pics at the bottom.

Thanks for the help guys.. more to come.
-Chris

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Ordered all the double wall and adapters to get me from the stove to the chimney. Hopefully it ships soon.. would love to test fire this thing in the next week or so.

Going to go get new door gasket material and replace those. Would anyone know if this stove is supposed to have firebrick in it? It currently doesn't.

 

[begreen]

There's no mention of firebrick in the manual, might be a decent mod though.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I'll snap a picture of the firebox tonight. I've never had a stove with firebricks so not sure how they fit, etc..

 

[begreen]

It probably would take adding a brick holder to hold the side bricks vertical. Though I have seen a stove where they used the floor bricks to hold the side bricks captive.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I am tossing around the idea of adding a secondary burn system to the stove... I'm gonna run it a bit as it is to see how clean it burns and how quickly it goes through wood...

The stove appears to have a makeshift air wash setup as the intake air is forced through a box on the doors and flows up the glass into the box. Not sure how well it would work..

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Got the tile grouted and cleaned up... turned out pretty decent. Still need to trim it out.. not sure what I'll use for that yet.

Started cleaning on the old stove... got most of the crap knocked out of the firebox... working on locating a proper door gasket as 1/2" standard gasket as suggested by online stores is a no go.

Any tips on making the inside of this firebox not look like crap? Lol

Hoping to sit the stove into place Saturday and finish cleaning/repainting it. Double wall stove pipe and connectors will be here early next week.

 

[firefighterjake]

. . .

Any tips on making the inside of this firebox not look like crap? Lol
. . ..

Partly being funny, but mostly being serious . . .

1. Fill with wood.
2. Light fire.

Between the ash, coals and fly ash and heat it should help make things look a bit better -- least aways you won't notice the rust as much.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Made a good bit of progress today.

Had a few friends/family out and we sat the stove in place on the hearth pad then I got to work on cleaning/wire brushing...

I found some fairly narrow flat gasket material and it seems to do the trick. it takes a slight pressure to close the doors and the newspaper I had between the door and the gasket material as the adhesive cured was held in place tightly. After it cured, I dusted it with aerosol stove black just to make it less noticeable as white was the only color I could find without special ordering it.

Then I rolled/brushed on a coat of Rustoleum stove paint and will probably give it a 2nd coat tomorrow as its cool in the house... want to give it plenty of time to cure.

Anyways.. FedEx says the rest of my goods are on the truck and ready to be delivered Monday.. so if all goes well, test fire Monday night.

On a side note, I took some measurements of the firebox today... ~4.5 cu. ft. Now if I can get it to burn clean...

-Chris

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

Well.. as we were getting ready to call it a night at the house, FedEx showed up with the rest of our piping... so back inside.

I was lacking 1/4" in getting the telescopic piece in place. I didn't take into consideration the adapter lengths. I ended up getting it worked in but it was a SNUG fit! I actually lifted the chimney slightly to get the stove adapter over the lip on the stove. Once it was in place, the chimney sat back in place and I was able to telescope the pipe out about 1/2" I guess I should have waited to order it all until the stove was sitting in place... and it would have been nice to have dimensions for the adapters...

Anyways.. Its all in and screwed together. I'm gonna have to do some thinking on the stove adapter as the outer wall of the double wall adapter is a good bit away from the flange that it is supposed to screw to on top of the stove. The inner pipe sits down inside the flange on top of the stove snuggly. If I screw the outer pipe to the flange as its designed, it will bend the pipe. The flange on the stove is drilled so I may have to drill larger holes in the outer pipe so I can shoot screws through the flange and into the inner pipe if that makes sense... Its currently just a very snug fit and cant go anywhere.. but I would prefer to have the screws in place as its designed.

We lit a small kindling fire just to warm things up and check the draft... everything seems to be in order. The draft seems strong and there isn't any smoke coming from anywhere that it shouldn't be coming from. I climbed back up in the attic as well and all seems to be good. The stove got just hot enough to start curing the paint before it was down to coals and we decided to shut it down and call it a night.

We still have to trim out the pad but all in all, very happy with the install. I'm planning on warming it up a bit tomorrow night just to check things over and let the paint cure a bit better.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

And the verdict is in... This old stove and I will get along just fine.

I got a nice kindling fire going then stacked on 3 splits and let it go full tilt... After 20 minutes or so, I closed the damper down to say 1/3 and bumped the primary air controls down to half throttle. After an hour or so, I threw a few more splits in and let it be.

In under 3 hrs, was able to bring the temp of this near 2k sq. ft. home up 15 degrees... from 50 to 65 and that wasn't pushing the stove at all. With 6 splits in the box, it wasn't even half full. Not used to having so much space in the firebox...

Come Saturday, I'll push it a bit and see what it can do as I'll be out here working all weekend. So far, very pleased. We have a lot to do out at the new place... at least we can stay warm while we work.

Thanks for all the help guys!
-Chris

 

[Blackjack Dan]

Nice job!
I currently have a similar stove and chimney set up, and have been researching upgrading my stove and the issues of going from 6" stove into 8" flue. A lot of manufactures state to make sure you never go three times over the 6" with everything insulated hopefully you'll be fine.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I'm sure it will be. I will probably just get a large stove with an 8" flue when the time comes.

 

[Blackjack Dan]

I'm thinking along those lines also, so far one I am looking at is the VC Defiant Flex-Burn although I know there's a lot of VC haters out there. If you get a line on some other good stoves with an 8 inch flue pass it on thanks.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

All the ones I've seen thus far are pricey... But eyeballing the Blazeking King. From my understanding, most stoves with over a 3.5cu. ft. firebox use 8" flues.

I'm sure there are more options though. I may end up keeping this stove if I can keep it fed... Lol

 

[Grisu]

Modern stoves with an 8" flue: Kuma Sequoia, Hearthstone Equinox, Regency 5100, several Buck stoves, BlazeKing King, Canyon 310 optional, HighValley 2500