Fisher Question: Pics shown

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

cogger

Member
Oct 10, 2006
195
www.facebook.com
Is this stove suppose to have a baffle in the burn chamber. Looks like I can get one in there if needed in 2 sections.

Nevermind the dirty ol' kettle. Also I put down a new tile slate hearth and used roofing flashing between floor and slate since I did not use mortar to seal and molding trim to hold tiles in place. I understand these stoves are not up to EPA standards but for all you greenies out there I will be burning 4 tons of bio pellets this season in this little oven if that makes you feel any better. Also does anyone know what model Fisher this is?



fisher_front.jpg
fisher_inside.jpg
 
That is the baby bear fisher stove and there was a bafflet plate
 
I lite this stove w/o a baffet plate (til I make one) I got the stove temp up to Med and avg. Closed my damper too quick and the stove began to flutter. But If I nurse the damper slowly over time to close it is fine. Some ol timers in the past tought me it was better to nurse the damper closed rather than all at once.
 
RingOfFire said:
I lite this stove w/o a baffet plate (til I make one) I got the stove temp up to Med and avg. Closed my damper too quick and the stove began to flutter. But If I nurse the damper slowly over time to close it is fine. Some ol timers in the past tought me it was better to nurse the damper closed rather than all at once.

This is correct, and to some degree it still applies to the modern stoves. If you "slam" the damper or other adjustment closed, you can cause a situation where the oxygen in the firebox gets consumed and the box fills with smoke. It starts to cool a bit and pulls some air down the chimney, which mixes with the smoke and allows the remaining fire to light it off with a "whoosh" that blows all the air out of the chimney, so that it then sucks more air in to the firebox and repeats the cycle. This can be destructive - blowing doors open, separating pipe joints, etc.

Closing the damper slowly allows the fire to adjust to match the available air supply and avoids the problem.

Gooserider
 
Status
Not open for further replies.