Does anyone know if there is any material out there that shows how to properly flash around a chimney at the roofline? I am a mason and I do know how to do it but I don't really like the way I was tought. I'm looking to simplify the process as I have been getting alot of calls lately for chimney replacements.
flashing
- Thread starter sace1515
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
I'm not a mason, but this info appears to be out there. Would either of these sources help?
(broken link removed to http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17758/)
http://www.rumford.com/chimneys/flashing.html
If you ever get a job with copper flashing:
(broken link removed to http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/chimney.html)
Here is a basic system:
(broken link removed to http://roofingcontractorreview.com/Basic-Chimney-Flashing.html)
(broken link removed to http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17758/)
http://www.rumford.com/chimneys/flashing.html
If you ever get a job with copper flashing:
(broken link removed to http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/chimney.html)
Here is a basic system:
(broken link removed to http://roofingcontractorreview.com/Basic-Chimney-Flashing.html)
those do help, I do something similar. I guess there isn't a easy way to do it. It is a very tedious job! Thanks
Sace, I did mine 2 chimneys in a very similar manner to the articles BE Green posted but instead of using sheet metal I used sheet lead. It is easier to bend and form right on the roof. Most chimneys in this area are done with sheet lead but with similar techniques.
Scott in IN said:
A cutoff saw with diamond blade. Cut a groove and set a reglet flashing in there.
I have done them every way show that you posted links to BG.
If I have the time, I prefer the Lock, seam & solder method. Its the old school method and if done properly, will last longer at least a couple generations.
I have done a variation similar to the last link that instead of a large level pc of metal running the mortar joint on each sides, I cut a groove on an angle parallel with the roof down each side and put a counter flashing in that way & caulk with good sealant, could outlast me.
This works real well on stone & other surfaces that have no specific pattern of mortar joints.
If I have the time, I prefer the Lock, seam & solder method. Its the old school method and if done properly, will last longer at least a couple generations.
I have done a variation similar to the last link that instead of a large level pc of metal running the mortar joint on each sides, I cut a groove on an angle parallel with the roof down each side and put a counter flashing in that way & caulk with good sealant, could outlast me.
This works real well on stone & other surfaces that have no specific pattern of mortar joints.
todays sealants will last adecade or so and with proper counter flashing with your roofing it will not leak inless the rodents chew up your lead. then again your masonary work could wick in moisture, there are many different masonary sealants on the market. sometimes the wind just blows in the wrong direction. for that i rely on interior flashing with sheetrock buckets. what ever u do dont use tar!
!- Status
Similar threads
