Floor protection needs to be level with hearth? (Drolet 1800i insert)
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And to the mantel it's 16 5/8" so pfffffffft
I kind of feel dumb for not just sending it back and getting the Century but I have already cut an exploratory hole into the drywall.
Also side note...they seem like good people at SBI. The George St Pierre sounding guy who picks up the phone when you go through MyFireplaceProducts is patient and knowledgeable. I wish he could have gotten me out of the shipping cost but that's not his fault.
That's very helpful. The mantel looks more like a wood ledge. It is very close to the fireplace opening. Shielding at the stove and under the ledge may be the best you can do outside of splicing in a non-combustible mantel segment or raising it and the brick to make it look right.
To be compliant with the manufacturer requirements though, as I understand it, I have no choice but to raise the brick and the mantel, right? The good news is the blue you see within the hole in the drywall is simply wood paneling. Behind it is a little air space and then masonry. It's a great relief to have not found any surprises when opening the wall. Cutting out the drywall and wood paneling and laying four more courses of brick shouldn't be that bad. The most upsetting thing is that the brick is painted, so whatever masonry work I add on has to be painted too.
Mech e
Feeling the Heat
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Well at least with a fresh coat of paint you won’t have to worry about brick matching. Will you take the brick up the entire width of the wall and then replace the wood ledge or make it out of brick?
Brick up the full width....then not sure if I'll use same wood, source a bigger piece, or make a masonry mantel.
Mech e
Feeling the Heat
You can check mcmaster.com or contact a local sheet metal custom part fabricator in your area. Perhaps https://www.carolinalasercutting.com/
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I like the cleanness of the wooden ledge. I think masonry would look a bit harsh for that width. We thought. About tiling over our stone fireplace. In the end we decided to embrace the original design intent. and keep it as a focal point. Trendy is only trendy for a bit.
I was going to use furnace cement to seal around the liner/block off plate...can I just use that to seal the outside edges of the block off plate too?
Is that for a block-off plate? Look for a sheetmetal shop in your area or maybe check the big box hardware stores.
I would stick with 26ga. 22 ga is not needed and harder to work with, especially with manual tools.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Is furnace cement OK for around liner AND outside edges where plate meets masonry?
spudman99
Feeling the Heat
High temperature caulk around the plate and masonry. Easier to apply and has sufficient heat resistance to last. Furnace cement would work but is less flexible - remember 2 different materials expand and contract at different rates.
I used roxul around the liner and the plate. I also had 4" of roxul above the block off plate. If I lose some heat pass the liner/plate seam, it would not be significant and I was not worried.
I used roxul around the liner and the plate. I also had 4" of roxul above the block off plate. If I lose some heat pass the liner/plate seam, it would not be significant and I was not worried.
Use regular silicone for the flanges where they meet the masonry. Use nothing around the liner, but pack roxul or kaowool above the plate. If the gap around the liner is large you can use some door gasket rope to fill it.
Would this work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Fire-Barrier-10-1-oz-Red-Sanded-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3372952
Or even latex isn't flexible enough? I'm having trouble finding high temp silicone locally.
Another question:
I was thinking about making my own little extension out of a layer of plywood, two layers of half inch Durock, and tile. The R value would be more than enough. I figured it would be a little more durable than those HyC pads. What I need to know is should I screw the layers of Durock/plywood together or use tile adhesive? I especially was wondering the best way to adhere the Durock to the plywood.
Or even latex isn't flexible enough? I'm having trouble finding high temp silicone locally.
Another question:
I was thinking about making my own little extension out of a layer of plywood, two layers of half inch Durock, and tile. The R value would be more than enough. I figured it would be a little more durable than those HyC pads. What I need to know is should I screw the layers of Durock/plywood together or use tile adhesive? I especially was wondering the best way to adhere the Durock to the plywood.
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