Free standing wood stove in place of insert?

[HollyE]

Two years ago, we changed a fireplace insert to a wood stove insert. Due to the size limitations, we went with the Buck Stove model 74 w/ blower. Everything from top of chimney to bottom was replaced.

Now that we've used it for a couple of years, I wish I would've just put a free standing wood stove instead of going with this insert. The main reasons are the small box leads to having to load it more often and I would like more heat from it. The box is rather small and I can usually get no more than 4 hours from it. If it's really cold out, I have to set the alarm and get up during the night to reload it. I read that it gives about 40K btu's which is far less than many wood stoves. I'm attaching a picture of the current setup. Has anyone done this, changed from insert to a free standing wood stove? If so, how did it work out? I'm picturing the wood stove sitting directly in front of where the insert is now.

The house is a cedar log home, 1700 sq ft split level, main living space has 26' vaulted ceiling which vaults directly above where wood stove insert is. Running the ceiling fan in reverse on medium speed helps to stir up the hot air that gets trapped up high. We also have propane wall heaters. We cannot heat the home with the wood stove alone. I'm hoping a free standing would heat it without the use of the propane heaters.

Any insight is appreciated!

 

[HomeinPA]

I have a client who has the same issue now but we're going the route of the hearth stove application. Like you, his firebox is way to small for almost any insert that will give off enough heat for the room but he does have a large extended hearth. We'd almost have to see the old fireplace and dimensions before being sure but I'd imagine you could easily do the hearth stove with some modifications to your hearth extension to get the proper clearances as well as heat shields around the mantel and combustible surfaces . The TV may have to go somewhere else too as it looks to be to close to the potential stove.

 

[begreen]

You may be able to get more heat from the insert by reducing heat loss to the masonry. A block-off plate and some insulation around the walls of the fireplace can make a nice difference. Was an insulated block-off plate installed when the liner went in? Is there a little room between the rear of the insert and the back of the fireplace?

 

[HollyE]

Begreen, I'm not sure if there is a block on plate. I do know there isn't much room behind the insert.

It would be nice to get more heat from it, but it doesn't increase the burn times which is a big part of our want to get a free stander.

 

[HollyE]

When I say I can get 4 hours of heat from this stove, that's on the best day with perfect fitting wood. 3 hours is probably closer. I'm tired of constantly loading it.

I don't understand how this one is rated for 2600 sq ft when it gives off 40,000 btu's, while I've seen others rated for the same of less square feet give off 120,000 btu's.

 

[HomeinPA]

A closer look at the original picture and your comments bring up a question - Was this a masonry fireplace to begin with or a prefab unit? On second look it certainly looks like a prefab. Do you have a picture of the unit before the stove was installed?

 

[HollyE]

It was a prefab fireplace insert, Here is the only picture I have. I'm not wanting a freestanding stove to sit inside the open area within there, I would want it to sit in front of where the insert is now.

 

[HomeinPA]

For starters, your original firebox needs to be approved for an installation that allows the fireplace to be modified to accept an stainless steel liner for the hearth stove. Next, you need a rear exhaust stove that will be low enough to connect to the liner without being to close to surrounding combustible areas. Then you need a hearth pad below the stove that provides the floor protection for the new stove and keep in mind that the stove will be required to be anywhere from 10-18" away the combustible wall. The stove that we're considering for the install I was referring to is the Hampton 300 series with the short leg kit.

Another consideration, depending on what your budget is, you may be better off with a new installation of something along the lines of a Regency EX90 or Quadrafire 7100

 

[HollyE]

When we had this wood stove insert installed, we had a new titanium liner put in. Is that what you are referring to?

As for the hearth pad, would the slate not work?

 

[HomeinPA]

No. Not big enough. Find a stove and then determine clearances

 

[Bootstrap]

Two years ago, we changed a fireplace insert to a wood stove insert.

Tell me you didn't put a wood stove insert into a gaping hole where a prefab fireplace used to be because,.....

It sounds like you had the prefab fireplace removed, and a wood stove insert installed in the void....If that's so, I don't know how your house hasn't burnt down.
Do you have pictures of the install process?

 

[HomeinPA]

Tell me you didn't put a wood stove insert into a gaping hole where a prefab fireplace used to be because,.....

It sounds like you had the prefab fireplace removed, and a wood stove insert installed in the void....If that's so, I don't know how your house hasn't burnt down.
Do you have pictures of the install process?

It looks like the original firebox is still there around the outside of the surround.

 

[Zack R]

Two years ago, we changed a fireplace insert to a wood stove insert. Due to the size limitations, we went with the Buck Stove model 74 w/ blower. Everything from top of chimney to bottom was replaced.

Now that we've used it for a couple of years, I wish I would've just put a free standing wood stove instead of going with this insert. The main reasons are the small box leads to having to load it more often and I would like more heat from it. The box is rather small and I can usually get no more than 4 hours from it. If it's really cold out, I have to set the alarm and get up during the night to reload it. I read that it gives about 40K btu's which is far less than many wood stoves. I'm attaching a picture of the current setup. Has anyone done this, changed from insert to a free standing wood stove? If so, how did it work out? I'm picturing the wood stove sitting directly in front of where the insert is now.

The house is a cedar log home, 1700 sq ft split level, main living space has 26' vaulted ceiling which vaults directly above where wood stove insert is. Running the ceiling fan in reverse on medium speed helps to stir up the hot air that gets trapped up high. We also have propane wall heaters. We cannot heat the home with the wood stove alone. I'm hoping a free standing would heat it without the use of the propane heaters.

Any insight is appreciated!
View attachment 221058

Assuming everything was replaced you should be able to pull out that insert and go with a freestanding stove. Depending on clearance requirements you might need to extend the tile a bit which isn't too difficult.

For example I I have the Jotul F45 and recommend it to others. Here's the clearance requirements, see how these compare to your current situation.

(broken link removed to https://jotul.com/us/products/wood-stoves/_attachment/53964?_download=true&_ts=15ea08b7478)

 

[HollyE]

Tell me you didn't put a wood stove insert into a gaping hole where a prefab fireplace used to be because,.....

It sounds like you had the prefab fireplace removed, and a wood stove insert installed in the void....If that's so, I don't know how your house hasn't burnt down.
Do you have pictures of the install process?

Calm down, we hired professionals to install it, and the original insert is still there.

Because it was a prefab insert is one reason we had to go with the model we did.

 

[begreen]

Begreen, I'm not sure if there is a block on plate. I do know there isn't much room behind the insert.

It would be nice to get more heat from it, but it doesn't increase the burn times which is a big part of our want to get a free stander.

If you are not pressing the stove as hard for heat the burn times will be longer. A blockoff plate and a little insulation around the sides and back of the insert can raise the convective output temp notably. It would be a fairly inexpensive approach if you can DIY. If, after doing this you still want more heat, then at least you have the blockoff plate in place. It will be needed for a freestander setup anyway. If it does make a satisfactory improvement you've saved some money. Though given the type of installation I am leaning toward the freestander as being a better solution for you.

HomePA has given some guidance for this. The main issues are going to be clearances, hearth protection and rear flue collar height. We need to know the fireplace opening height to check the flue collar height compatibility.

 

[HollyE]

If you are not pressing the stove as hard for heat the burn times will be longer. A blockoff plate and a little insulation around the sides and back of the insert can raise the convective output temp notably. It would be a fairly inexpensive approach if you can DIY. If, after doing this you still want more heat, then at least you have the blockoff plate in place. It will be needed for a freestander setup anyway. If it does make a satisfactory improvement you've saved some money. Though given the type of installation I am leaning toward the freestander as being a better solution for you.

HomePA has given some guidance for this. The main issues are going to be clearances, hearth protection and rear flue collar height. We need to know the fireplace opening height to check the flue collar height compatibility.

Thanks, I will check with my installer about the block plate and insulation.

 

[begreen]

The difference will be more apparent with a masonry installation. Can you provide the fireplace opening height?

 

[HollyE]

The difference will be more apparent with a masonry installation. Can you provide the fireplace opening height?

Looking at the first picture of my current setup, should I measure to the where the black meets with the wood?

 

[begreen]

Looking at the first picture of my current setup, should I measure to the where the black meets with the wood?

No, the surround would need to be removed to measure this accurately. If you know the make and model of the prefab that is an alternative. If that is known the height may be in the manual.

 

[Bootstrap]

Calm down, we hired professionals to install it, and the original insert is still there.

Because it was a prefab insert is one reason we had to go with the model we did.

Im hardly upset in any way. Just wanted to understand whats going on here.
Using a "professional" is no guarantee that it was done correctly.