one of the problems on the pellet stove side is that they for the most part were rated as "Exempt" for so long, so actual testing for emissions was not done, hey, it costs a fair amount of money to have it tested and quite a bit more in development. back in the day a manufacturer could just throw air at it until it burned "clean" (to the eye mostly) with regulations drastically reducing the areas where exempt stoves could be sold the industry is being dragged kicking and screaming into the "certified" age. problem this causes is that the vastly inflated BTU numbers advertised back then have literally been accepted as "gospel' by the consuming public, so when companies post the actual numbers they get KILLED in the marketplace (trust me I'm on the receiving end of this conversation constantly.)
the truth is most customers simply do not need the BTU outputs listed with the stove to heat their hoes to start with. I heat m little 1250 sq ft ranch here in Va. with an average output of less than 12K BTU/HR many folks are able to do it with even less. but when they shop and see the 27K max BTU output on the flyer and the stove they are replacing was "listed" by the manufacturer as a 60K BTU unit, they think "im not buying that thing it cant heat my house" even though their "60K BTU " unit was turned down to low most of the time and was probably only outputting a fraction of its (less than 60K BTU) capability. ive literally had to sit here and explain the math to folks more times than I can count.
as for woodstoves, a "real world" listing is a PIPE DREAM, there are far and away too many variables to even think even a moderately accurate representation could be achieved. even when burning wood of the same species literally the age of the tree the section of the tree , moisture content, chimney size and height, all will factor in and some will be larger factors than others.
think wood species, its weight per cubic unit of measure. for example, take a 1 lb block of balsa wood, it contains roughly 8500 BTU per lb of potential,now, a 1 lb block of locust contains roughly the same 8500 BTU of potential as well, however it is much smaller in size because the wood itself is vastly more dense. so, in a typical firebox one could load much more wood (by weight which is what matters) into it than they could with our balsa wood, so the output of the stove as well as its burn time will be vastly different.
I know this is an extreme example but it illustrates my point.
moisture, water don't burn, but it has to leave the wood before the wood will burn (remember the old adage about putting green wood in the fire for an overnight burn? it was done so the green wood would spend half the cycle cooking out the moisture before it actually burned.) moisture reduces output because the wood contains only so much energy and removing the water by flashing it to steam uses part of that energy budget evaporation is a cooling function, the steam sequesters energy and transports it out with the smoke so less is available to be conducted into the mass of the firebox, thus , it don't get in the home. now, with the loss of that fraction the firebox itself does not heat up as readily which means the wood is not heated as effectively and thus it does not outgas as readily (the outgassed wood is what's actually burning , not the physical log) so the energy release is retarded in this way as well. in secondary burn stoves this hurts even more because the heat loss as well as the moisture in the smoke prevents secondary combustion in a stove for a much longer period, so by the time the secondary's are firing the wood load is damned near spent.
I could go on and on, ive literally written chapters about these effects alone, im not going to bore you with the actual math, but the effects are astounding. (as anyone who has tried to fire a non-cat with green wood and got almost ZERO heat can attest)