gas powered log splitter help needed

[ryjen]

I purchased a gas powered log splitter from a guy a few weeks back. I know nothing about it other than the obvious, and the fact that the Mexican I bought it from kept repeating "Ci, it work good". He was a funny guy actually. His asking price was $495. I asked him why he advertised it at that price and he told me that everything he sees for sale in America is something 95 or 99. 499, 595, 695. He said he wanted to fit in. My wife and I laughed about that all weekend.

Anyway...


So I got it home and started looking it over and I can't see where I check, and/or add fluid to the system. I changed the oil in the ugly, yet oddly well running, ancient Briggs and Stratton 5 HP engine. She was pretty low. I know it has a 3000 PSI max on the valve, and 2500 PSI max on the shaft (Not sure of the official term, I'm new to all of this. I call it a shaft) I have attached pictures. It looks to be a homebuilt job, so I'm hoping I can get some advice from the folks who have built them. Parts I should swap out, where to check fluid levels, etc.

 

[bmblank]

Just out of curiosity, what's keeping the pusher on the beam?

 

[ryjen]

If I'm understanding your question correctly, the beam has a lip, and the pusher has a plate that is bolted to it that runs underneath the lip?

 

[triptester]

What you are refering to as the rod is a cylinder. The bore size ( inside diameter of the cylinder ) X the system pressure equals tonnage. At 3000 psi a 4" bore equals 18.8 tons, a 4.5" bore equals 23.8 tons, a 5" bore equals 29.4 tons. Pressure is set by the relief setting in the control valve.
Improvements could be made but at the price paid I would use it as is. The hydraulic components are basic standard off the shelf parts.

 

[bmblank]

OK, I was just concerned cause it looks like the beam is the tank and I didn't see anywhere it would grab.

 

[Jags]

Yes - it appears that the beam was boxed in and is being used as the tank. The breather coming from the side of the tank would be your fill pipe. DO NOT OVERFILL or you will be wearing an oil slick.

Is there something about it that doesn't function properly?? It looks like it is ready to go to work, to me.

 

[ryjen]

No, she seems to work just fine. I just don't know the dangers of running her with low fluid, and wanted to have a way to check the level before I screwed something up.
The engine is cold natured, and the throttle control needs to be adjusted a bit. I wish the wedge was about 3 inches taller, but she works and doesn't seem to have any issues with large stock. She'll split up to 26" long which is more than large enough.

 

[Jags]

If you start to notice any rough or irregular operation of the ram, that is a good indication that you are introducing air into the system. A side effect of low oil. Hoses jumping around (surging) is another sign. If all is working proper, I would just run with it for now.

 

[ryjen]

will do. Thanks!

 

[gzecc]

Maybe if you remove the filter, it will drain from there? Is the filter lower than the beam tank? When you look down the fill port, can you see fluid? Are there any leaks from around the ram when using it?

 

[ryjen]

No leaks, I haven't removed that cap and looked down inside there, so I don't know if any fluid would be seen from there or not.
The filter is lower than the beam, but not knowing how much fluid the machine is supposed to have will add a few steps to changing that filter, as I'm sure the fluid will pour out when I replace it.
I guess I will have to catch the fluid that drains, and then measure that, and then put that amount of new fluid in.

 

[Jags]

These things aren't Mars rovers. Relax - that splitter looks like a pretty decent unit. Run the sucker. Even if it got a bit low on fluid, you aren't gonna hurt anything but performance. Bring the fluid back up and it will purge the air on its own after a few strokes.

 

[gzecc]

No leaks, I haven't removed that cap and looked down inside there, so I don't know if any fluid would be seen from there or not.
The filter is lower than the beam, but not knowing how much fluid the machine is supposed to have will add a few steps to changing that filter, as I'm sure the fluid will pour out when I replace it.
I guess I will have to catch the fluid that drains, and then measure that, and then put that amount of new fluid in.

Its an open system. I would assume the cap has an vent hole of some sort. I don't think you can put too much fluid in it. I would put a dip stick in it, and see where it is now. Also see the visual condition of it.
If it were me, I would change the filter and the fluid. Of course I have enough experience to get me in trouble.

 

[Jags]

You actually can overfill. As the fluid heats it expands. The same reason that the antifreeze reservoir on your car/truck has a hot/cold mark.
The boxed in beam tells me that this machine is not running with much of a fluid reserve and will probably have temps running on the upper end of the scale for hydro juice.
Also - with the limited amount of hydro juice in the system, something as simple as having the ram extended a bit while checking the fluid level can make for a bad reading.
I am probably being overly cautious cuz I really hate hydro baths.

 

[gzecc]

You actually can overfill. As the fluid heats it expands. The same reason that the antifreeze reservoir on your car/truck has a hot/cold mark.
The boxed in beam tells me that this machine is not running with much of a fluid reserve and will probably have temps running on the upper end of the scale for hydro juice.
Also - with the limited amount of hydro juice in the system, something as simple as having the ram extended a bit while checking the fluid level can make for a bad reading.
I am probably being overly cautious cuz I really hate hydro baths.

So he should check the fluid with the ram retracted? When retracted it probably should be an inch from the neck of the tank?
If he over fills, he risks having a hydraulic fluid bath correct? No other problem.

 

[Butcher]

Unless they welded the fitting for the filter way to low on the tank you really shouldn't need the oil level any higher than that. Take the old filter off. Fill tank till it starts to dribble out of the filter housing. Install new filter and add a quart or a little more and see how it operates. That is assuming that fitting isn't to low on the tank. Kinda hard to tell in the pic.

 

[Jags]

So he should check the fluid with the ram retracted?

Yes.
Guessing the fill level is just that, guessing. I would try to figure out a way to see what the current level is. If it operates properly at that level, it gives the user a reference point to work with.

 

[ryjen]

Jags, that would be just as simple as going ahead and replacing that filter. The fluid should drain out and I can catch it and measure how much was in there.

Sounds like a job to be done when I service the mower for the start of the season. I'll run her as is for now.



As a side note, when under a load should the engine speed increase? This one slows and if she's cold bogs down. We have noticed if we increase the engine speed she doesn't bog down at all.
Just curious.

 

[gzecc]

Jags, that would be just as simple as going ahead and replacing that filter. The fluid should drain out and I can catch it and measure how much was in there.

Sounds like a job to be done when I service the mower for the start of the season. I'll run her as is for now.

Make sure to have ample containers for hydraulic fluid. And you will need a shower after that experience.

 

[Jags]

Most splitters match the motor to the pump and are typically designed to run at governed RPM. I usually only run half throttle or a bit more, but if I am working up some really nasty stuff I will speed the engine up. I wouldn't routinely bog the motor if you can help it.

That looks like it is more than likely a 5 or 6hp Briggs with an 11 GPM 2 stage pump. They are matched well but there is no excess power there, either.
(as an example: On one of my splitters that I built I use a 14.5 hp Briggs as that is what I had available. It is pulling a 16GPM pump which only requires 8hp to run. So even at very low speeds, I can't bog the oversized Briggs down).

 

[Jags]

As a side note, when under a load should the engine speed increase?

Re-reading this...are you thinking that the engine speed should automatically raise?? There are some that came with an idle down feature, but not too many. Most have a throttle that you set to the desired speed.

 

[ryjen]

Yeah, it' a 5Hp.

I was assuming that maybe it would be able to raise. I can move the throttle up a bit for a faster speed and she doesn't bog. I just didn't know if there was an automatic option or not. I have never used one until now.

Based on your earlier post, maybe when it comes time to replace a dying engine, I could bump it up to an 8HP and she won't bog?

 

[Jags]

Based on your earlier post, maybe when it comes time to replace a dying engine, I could bump it up to an 8HP and she won't bog?

20 years from now, when that Briggs dies, look me up. Simply raise your engine RPM to a point that it doesn't bog down and get to splittin'. Half throttle or above is probably a good starting point.

No reason to over HP a pump. It'll just suck more gas. I used what I had (had given to me) when I built my last splitter. The splitter will probably only work up a cord or two per year (cabin camp fires), so fuel usage isn't of any real concerns. If it is of any interest - the link to that build is in my sig. Warning - it is pic heavy.