Gas Log Splitters

[Itslay90]

Is the

Champion Power Equipment Gas Log Splitters are they any good, I know they get a lot of good reviews,​

 

[Eman85]

I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if I needed a gas log splitter. I've got a Champion generator and a winch. So far great products and excellent customer service. I have had my generator for a lot of years and it gets used a lot. Over the years if I had a question or needed a part I had great customer service and many times they sent the parts at no charge.

 

[brenndatomu]

Over the years if I had a question or needed a part I had great customer service and many times they sent the parts at no charge.

I bought a used champion inverter Genny for cheap thinking it just needed a carb clean since the guy said it ran fine until it sat for a few months...carb clean didn't fix it so I called their customer service line...they though it needed a control board and wanted a copy of my receipt for warranty. I said I bought it used, they asked for the serial number then...they said they could tell it was less than 1 year old by the serial number so they'd still send me the part, no charge if I could install it myself. I said no problem.
The control board did not fix it and I called them back, they weren't sure what was going on with it so I started doing my own diagnostic work on it (former OPE dealer mechanic) and I managed to narrow it down to a suspect ignition control... I called them and they sent me a new one, also no charge. That did the trick then. Very impressed that they warrantied parts for the second owner!

I've also owned a champion 23 ton gas splitter since 2012, no major issues with it at all.
All log splitters are Chinese made until you get into the expensive commercial duty models...and most are of similar quality, as long as you don't buy they real cheap ones online.
Just find one that has the layout and features you like and go for it.
There are some deals to be had out there on used ones if you are patient and wait for the right one to come along. I've seen several nice low hour units for less then $500 in the last week! If I didn't already have 4 splitters taking up space around here I'd have snagged 'em to flip!

 

[Itslay90]

Thank ya !!

 

[joop]

ahoh someones getting hooked lol

 

[Mutineer]

Most important item on any splitter is the engine, Kohlers have had issues over the years- I found out the hard way on a Cub Cadet tractor that had an oil leak issue that I was warned to watch out for. The Harbor Freight engines seem to get good reviews but the main aspect is how well do they age, which is unknown with any certainty at this point. I have had excellent results with the Honda GX series of engines (versus the GC series), at one point they were still made stateside but not sure that's true anymore. The GX series seem to be more rugged and reliable for something that a lot of the time sits out in the elements and might not get started for months at a time, but that series is designed and constructed more robustly. Plus, spare parts are inexpensive and readily available. I have over 20 years on the current GX200, it replaced a Briggs & Stratton of 1991-92 vintage that just basically wore out after 10-11 years.

 

[cahaak]

The harbor freight engines last, as do the lct engines, which are Honda clones. For an average user, they're only going to put about 8 hours a year on the engine unless they share or loan out their splitter.

 

[Mutineer]

Good point, cahaak, but my splitter has about 7-8 "loanees" so with my 12-15 hrs per year plus their use, it probably totals 50-70 hours per year, again not a lot of hours. I'm just not confident that the cheap Honda clones use the best materials, metallurgical practices and tolerances as the on-shore Honda builds- if there are any of them still being made here. I'm not really in that loop anymore to know where they make these little engines.

 

[Ashful]

The sweet spot for 99.9% of users who want to just buy and use the thing, is going to be a 4" cylinder with at least 11 gpm pump and at least 7 hp (165cc) engine.

1. This provides ~22 tons of force, which is all most will ever need for splitting even very gnarly rounds
2. Larger cylinders provide more force, but at the expense of speed (according to R^2).
3. Smaller pumps will be slow, larger pumps faster.
4. Larger pumps require more horsepower = larger engine

If you're the hot-rodder type, you'd do well to buy a 28 or 35 ton machine, to get the larger pump, lines, and engine, and then downgrade the cylinder to 4" bore. This will give a "fast cycle" splitter, with all the splitting force you'll ever need for normal use.

You can also build a fast cycle splitter from a 22-ton machine, in fact I did this myself, but it involves upgrading absolutely everything but the cylinder itself. Very expensive and time-consuming.

Either way, mind your fingers. Faster splitters require faster reaction, if you manage to pinch something. Just like fast cars, pursue at your own risk.

Most people buying 28 or 35 ton machines do it because they assume they're getting better quality or performance, but all they're really getting is a slower machine, with more force than most will ever need. I've not yet met a round that 22 tons of force can't split with very little trouble.

 

[brenndatomu]

at least 7 hp (165cc) engine.

Just a clarification point...most small engines consider a 165cc engine to be more like 5.5 hp...my Champion has a 196cc/6hp, the 212cc Predator is considered a 6.5hp. So you'd have to get into the 225-250cc range for a 7 hp. The 301cc Predator is considered 8 hp.
My Champion has a 13 GPM pump and the 196cc "Champion engine" runs it no problem, so a 165cc would likely run a 11 GPM pump just fine, especially if the hi/lo stage shift point isn't set too high.

 

[Eman85]

All specs aside these clone engines are like anything else they do require some maintenance. Very few ever check the valve clearance which is part of maintenance.

 

[GerryM]

We use one to do a tandem load of logs every year. 27 ton Champion. Change the oil when done and shut the fuel off, no issues, been doing this for 5 years now. The log tables are a bit weak so we welded then to reinforce. I have to adjust the rleeif setting on the valve as its slightly out of whack.
As with another member, I have a Champion generator with the same motor, 224 CC, I use it for 2 weeks of hunting a year- no problems, just change oil once a week and store correctly. Its a bit loud but I have an insulated box that keeps the noise down. Have had it for 5 years after a yamaha quit.

 

[Ashful]

Just a clarification point...most small engines consider a 165cc engine to be more like 5.5 hp...my Champion has a 196cc/6hp, the 212cc Predator is considered a 6.5hp. So you'd have to get into the 225-250cc range for a 7 hp. The 301cc Predator is considered 8 hp.
My Champion has a 13 GPM pump and the 196cc "Champion engine" runs it no problem, so a 165cc would likely run a 11 GPM pump just fine, especially if the hi/lo stage shift point isn't set too high.

Good point. I was quoting the ubiquitous 675e from B&S, which I believe used to be listed at 6.75 hp, before they stopped quoting horsepower ratings on their engines. It is something like 162 cc. Some other manufacturers list their 190cc engines at 6.5 - 7.5 hp.

I presently have 344cc on my splitter, admittedly a little bit of overkill.

 

[brenndatomu]

I presently have 344cc on my splitter, admittedly a little bit of overkill.

I'm currently building an old Huskee 22 ton into a custom splitter...4" cyl/24" stroke 1.75" rod, 16 GPM pump, should get me below 9 second full cycle times, according to the cycle time calculator, and a log lift too.
Gonna have it set up with a 5 HP electric motor and a quick coupling mount system that will allow swapping out for a 8hp Predator gas engine in just a couple minutes, if I want to go split "away".

 

[brenndatomu]

The log tables are a bit weak so we welded then to reinforce

X2

 

[Ashful]

I'm currently building an old Huskee 22 ton into a custom splitter...4" cyl/24" stroke 1.75" rod, 16 GPM pump, should get me below 9 second full cycle times, according to the cycle time calculator, and a log lift too.
Gonna have it set up with a 5 HP electric motor and a quick coupling mount system that will allow swapping out for a 8hp Predator gas engine in just a couple minutes, if I want to go split "away".

I'm presently running a 16 GPM pump, overspun at 120% for 19.2 GPM. I'm getting full-stroke cycle times around 8 seconds on a Ø4"x24" cylinder. Same Huskee 22-ton chassis, so I can already tell you you're going to need to upgrade your suction line and fitting. If you can find my old thread, I list the McMaster-Carr part numbers for both. You'll also want to upgrade the hard line running between the valve and farther port on the cylinder, I just had mine customer made out of hydraulic hose.

 

[brenndatomu]

I'm presently running a 16 GPM pump, overspun at 120% for 19.2 GPM. I'm getting full-stroke cycle times around 8 seconds on a Ø4"x24" cylinder. Same Huskee 22-ton chassis, so I can already tell you you're going to need to upgrade your suction line and fitting. If you can find my old thread, I list the McMaster-Carr part numbers for both. You'll also want to upgrade the hard line running between the valve and farther port on the cylinder, I just had mine customer made out of hydraulic hose.

I kinda figured that would be the pinch point...I was planning on running it as is and see how it works, and how much heat it generates in the oil.

 

[Ashful]

The fitting and line upgrade from tank to pump was cheap and easy. I'd just do that one. It's on the suction side, so I used a thin wall fitting to hit the recommended bore size. I used legit hydraulic hose (less than 2 feet), but you could really use almost any oil-resistant hose there, the pressure is low.

Depending on your tools, the line on the cylinder could also be cheap and easy, or not. I wasn't confident that my flaring tools could handle steel tubing in that diameter, so I just bought a hose made to the correct length (plus 1") from my local hydraulics shop. The hose is actually more durable, as it doesn't bend or break when a split falls out of your hands and onto the splitter while stacking wood over it.

I'm not sure if an undersized suction line is easily detected, as it's never generating more than 14 psi load on the suction side of the pump. Undersized pressure lines, like the one on top of the cylinder, should be easily detected by RPM drop when cycling the cylinder with no load. If the drop is acceptable to you (eg. less than 10%?), and the heat isn't too bad, I guess you'd be fine.

 

[brenndatomu]

I was thinking of upsizing everything...the suction side is already 3/4" (and has a filter inline...weird, my Champion has the filter on the return line) and it looks easy enough to upsize to 3/4" fittings on the cylinder too...only place that I can't upsize to 3/4" is the control valve, would have to replace that...or just hope that with everything else upsized/optimized that this one short restriction through these 1/2" fittings would have minimal affect. Might even be able to find better fittings with same pressure rating and larger bore...dunno, hafta check that out later once I get it up and running. Still in fabrication mode now...moving the motor/engine mount from the right side above the oil tank, to the left side down in front of the tank, cross ways. Should be be more out of harms way and opposite side/closer to the ground, so even less "noise" to the operator...at least that's what I'm thinking.

Hopefully OP doesn't mind the highjacked thread...since it seems like the question was answered...

 

[cahaak]

I have a 22 ton unmodified splitter. I keep the wedge sharp. It splits everything, because if it can't split it, it shears the wood in half. I like the fact that I can switch it to vertical for some very large rounds.